Thinc2

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About Thinc2

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    TT Bronze Member

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    Male
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    Washington
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    WR250R
  1. This is true - parts are on backorder, HOWEVER, my dealer has been able to contact Husky and get warranty work approved. They just can't get the parts in order to do the work. Sooo, that means your dealer should be able to do the same - submit the warranty claim to Husky and get it approved. They just won't be able to replace your dash for lack of parts. but at least you'll know that once the parts are available, they will be comitted to doing it. This is for my 08 Te610 from NO Colorado BMW/Ducati (my local dealer).
  2. One correction - advrider is not for commercial gain. However, I think Advrider is a great comparator - because there are lots of people that visit and are active on both TT and Adv. Yet the two sites accomplish different things and i absolutely do not think they steal traffic from one another - in fact, i think they complement each other.
  3. So removing the one way valve did not fix the issue. Today i rode ten miles to work at 6am. Parked the bike. At 0800, it was leaking through the overflow line and weeping at the cap. At this point it was not yet hot out - maybe mid 60's. There was no sign of escaping fumes from the vent line - ie it was bone dry. When I opened the gas cap, there was no sound of escaping pressure... This is with about 2.75 gallons of fuel in the tank. I cam back out to check it at 1pm. About 85 degrees out. I could now see that the vent line was damp at the end - so it appears to be venting (i had also checked this earlier). It was unclear whethe the overflow line was still dripping fuel, but the wet spot under the bike was still there, so I think so. I filled the bike with gas, went for a 40 mile trail ride at 8-10,000 feet. At the end no signs of weeping or any gas spillage. So root cause still unknown. I'm beginning to think that the tank has a natural buildup of fumes. those should exit via the now valveless vent valve. However, instead, they seem to be exiting via the gas cap, and subesquently the overflow line. That makes me think it's either the gasket on the cap (which looks perfect), or wondering if there is a seal for the metal piece on the tank itself that is held in place by the allen screws and which holds the gas cap in place. Does this sound reasonable?
  4. well damn - wish I'd seen that weeks ago! Thank you so much.
  5. I'll try it. At this point I'll try anything
  6. My issue is a little worse though - I am getting weeping at the gas cap and yesterday in warm weather, I had a steady flow of gas (about 1 drop per second) from the overflow valve. the tank was full, but not overfilled (ie not to the bottom of the gas cap). No idea what is causing this - it's not happening on other people's '08's. A bad seal at the gas cap maybe? Not sure how that would cause the excessive discharge thru the overflow hose though...
  7. Did you ever get this sorted out? I'm having the same issue with my 08 TE610... Note - my lines and vents are not clogged - I've checked by blowing air thru them...
  8. Jellyrug, Can you be more specific about where you put the filters - as i think i should try this solution. Update, I started not filling my tank to near the top and my issue went away (for a while). I noticed that if I left the gas level lower than the bottom of the gas cap (note the gap intrudes quite far into the tank), that I didn't have any weeping. However, the weather has gotten warmer and yesterday I cam home to find not just weeping around the gas cap, but a steady flow of gas dripping out of the overflow hose. With steady flow, I mean about 1 drop per second - so a lot. The fuel was not coming out of the vent line that has the valve, but out of the overflow line. I had recently filled the gas tank, but it was not overfilled - ie it was clearly not to the level where it was near the bottom of the gas cap inside the tank. Any thoughts or suggestions?
  9. +1 Several people with high mileage TE610s that have used a variety of oils (none of them 10-60) - no issues reported so far.
  10. Ahh! Another piece of good advice - thanks for that. Happy outcome - the shop found my spacer near the tire changer One thing bears mentioning - Husky owners have no better friend than George at Uptite. He was so incredibly helpful - offering to fabricate a spacer for me, and calling his customers to see if they could get the dimensions. George - don't know if you're going to see this - but thank you so much!
  11. Thanks Ramz!!!!! I'll be on the phone with Uptite/Halls this am. tim
  12. I know this is a ridiculous question, but i really need some help. I took my front wheel to have a new tire mounted, and when i went to put it back on, i just cannot get it to fit right. What's happening is that with the wheel back on, no matter what I do with the pinch bolts on the forks, when i tighten the axle nut, the wheel binds up and will not turn. I think the only thing that could be stopping it from turning are the brake pads correct? It spins freely if the axle nut is loose. I've tried this is in so may iterations, I'm beginning to wonder if there is a spacer or something missing. I did not see any spacers when i removed the wheel, although i do see one on the Halls online catalogue. Is it possible for a spacer to have fallen out of the wheel while it was in the shop? Any other advice - sorry - I'm getting desperate because i have a four day camping trip coming up and this was the last thing I needed to get done. If I lost a part, the whole trip could be in go down the tubes... Any advice greatly appreciated - this is driving me nuts.
  13. Jellyrug, Thanks for the detailed explanation - that makes sense and I will leave the valve in place. One last question, since I am obviously not that familiar with this - based on the following comment: "With no check valves, fuel will enter the vent valve while you are riding during certain conditions, being a full tank, or real rough terrain. Once the vent valve has fuel, the circuit allowing vapor out of the tank is closed. It follows that under the right conditions, if vapor is expanding in your tank, with fuel in the vent valve the only path is expanding the plastic tank, or venting past the fuel cap gasket." Is there a check valve in the tank? Otherwise, wouldn't gas go down the tube to the oneway vent valve anyway, causing it to block and producing the same effect described above? Finally, "Your best solution is to re-instate the original circuit with two small check valves, they sell at around $2.00 a piece, the added bonus will be that all the air breathing into your tank is clean and filtered" Can you tell me specifically where you recommend putting the check valves? btw - after getting educated thru this thread, i'm beginning to doubt this is the cause of my weeping... thx tim
  14. You know what's interesting: - When i look at my owners manual (page 8), they don't show the vent hose at all - just the overflow hose. It looks like the outlet for the vent hose is plugged. - In the online parts catalogue fort he 08 at the Halls website it appears to be the same thing (page 89 & 90). They only show one hose, called a "breather hose". I wonder if this is a US only item, and if therefore once the canister is removed, I wonder if there's any reason to keep the vent hose at all, or just rely on the overflow hose as pictured in the manual and parts catalogue?
  15. Well, I am going to take the valve off and see if that helps. Additionally, I have ordered a new gasket for the gas cap, although mine looks to be in perfect condition. I'll know the results of removing the valve well before the new gasket comes in, since it is not showing in stock anywhere.