gregman_1

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About gregman_1

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    Georgia
  1. I've also got the Maier MX style rear fender with the BD light on my XRL. Looks like it was made to go there. I left the Baja Designs bracket full length and bolted it on at the very front and very rear. Makes for a better light angle and stiffens the fender enough that vibration is not an issue.
  2. OK. Thanks for your help Eddie.
  3. Sorry, my mistake. I had put a 50 in it. It was what I had laying around. I put the 62 back in it and it idled fine, now the problem is at WOT it runs like cat doodoo. Popping, sputtering and absolutely no power. I'm about two inches from giving up and getting a stock carb to put on it. I did check the float level on it and it was a bit high, I dropped it just a bit so the floats are parallel with the float bowl gasket. Am I an idiot? Probably. Am I tired of fiddling with this stupid carb? You bet. And to answer cleonard's questions, the 650L has 50 more CC's, but way less agressive cams and porting. Lower compression, too.
  4. Oh yeah, 10% throttle yields a bunch of popping and coughing with no increase in idle speed.
  5. This is a '93 XRL with an early '90s 600R carb on it. 1,000 feet asl, drilled airbox, stock headpipe and Supertrapp can. I went from a 152 main to a 140 as per Eddie's suggestion. While I was at it I went from a 62 pilot to a 40 pilot, as the idle wouldn't respond to the fuel screw until it was all the way in. On-throttle response is much much better, but I can't get it to idle. Full choke, fires right up until the idle starts to taper off, then turn the choke off, idles fine for about 10 second and then dies. Will not fire until the choke is back on, then does the same thing. Does this hot or cold, no matter what I do with the fuel screw. Any suggestions?
  6. I'll give it a shot, along with the 142 main and let you know how it goes. Thanks Eddie, what would we do without ya?
  7. Barely. It doesn't start to stumble until it's all the way in.
  8. The clip was in the third slot. I moved it up to the first and it's seemed to help a little. I checked the plug, it was a bit darker than it should be, but it really wasn't that bad.
  9. The main jet is a 152, and the needle says "7RA" just under the last clip position.
  10. Here we go. I have a '93 XR650L. Somewhere along the line someone swapped in a mechanical roundslide Keihin PD8AF from an XR600R of about the same vintage. The bike also has a Supertrapp EAR slipon on the stock header with a closed endcap and 7 discs. The snorkel has been removed from the airbox and there are three 2" holes in the left airbox cover. The filter is a UNI foam. I am not sure of the needle in the carb, but I do know it's not right. If I recall correctly, the main jet is a CR 155. The bike is mostly ridden here around Atlanta, which means 1,000 feet above sea level and 56% humidity. And here's the problem. The bike runs a hair rich. The endcap, rear fender and license plate acquire an ugly blackish-brown hue in about 100 miles of riding. The bike makes nowhere near the power it should, and will occasionally fall flat on its face when whacking the throttle open. Also, as the bike gets hotter (sitting in traffic) the idle will slowly increase. I know how to work on a carb, but I have no idea how to tune one, if that makes sense. So I need to know what direction to go in with the jetting and especially the needle. Help please!
  11. well yeah, I know, I meant I might try to rig an inverter. My pop's an electrical genius, he might could get something to work.
  12. Well, I needs a CDI, so I may just give it a shot. Thanks!
  13. Does anyone see any reason I can't use an aftermarket CDI for a 600R on my '93 XR650L? The connectors are the same and I don't see any reason why the programming would be different...
  14. Put the bike up on a crate or stand (get the weight off the front end) and slowly turn the steering back and forth and note if there's any notchiness towards the center. If there is, your steering head bearings are on the way out.
  15. The stock fork springs are about .44 kg/mm, for your weight and intended riding something around .48-.49 would be better. For the shock, stock is 10.5 kg/mm, you need around 11.0-11.5. Also make sure someone who knows what they're doing sets up the valving.