HodaddyB

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About HodaddyB

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    TT Bronze Member

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  • Location
    California
  1. If you still have the problem (I realize this post has been sitting here awhile), the easiest thing to look at would be the enrichener. That is to say, ensure it is not partially engaged. Presuming that everything is reassembled properly inside the float bowl, the enrichener being off-seat would certainly cause this sort of problem. Hope it's that simple.
  2. Try Sudco. They've been fantastic to deal with.
  3. I have a couple of the small levers as well as a No-Mar tire tire changer and its associated levers. I have used all sorts of old and new-schoole spoons and levers, but I always seem to do best with a pair of the ones pictured and a "yellow Thing" from No-Mar, whether it's street or dirt tires.
  4. I lowered my wife's '02 YZ125 4 inches and mounted 110/90-19 to an dirt track wheel I had laying around and put a 150/70-17 on the rear with a spare supermoto rim. She always wanted a "bike with fat-looking tires" so I figured I'd indulge her. It seems to work just fine so far for SoCal desert riding.
  5. 2002 YZ250 (smoker) has been on flat tracks, road race courses, kart tracks, and the desert. Never an MX track though.
  6. What hippie nightmares are made of.
  7. Have you spoken to your insurance company? Depending on who you have, and what coverages you may have, you might be able to get some or all of your investment back. My insurance company claims that if I can prove one way or another that I have added something to the bike, it will be covered. I haven't tested them on this, but that is what I'm told. For instance, I had a set of flatslides on my '86 GSXR. I asked about having to buy extra coverage for them, but was told that a receipt or even a picture would be adequate to prove they were on there and would be covered in addition to the "base" value of the machine. Just a suggestion FWIW. You may have coverage with your uninsured/underinsured........possibly
  8. +1 on both posts above. Be sure to look at the "Dual Sport/Adventure" & "Supermoto" forums over in the dirt bike section too. There should be plenty of nuggets to pull out of there. BTW, does "HH" mean you have a humbucker in the neck position?
  9. I put an SDG standard-height/thickness seat on my YZ and it is more comfy than the stock one............to me. I can't offer any opinions on a gel - haven't tried one.
  10. Not sure about the factory, but not all shops are created equal..........and neither are mechanics for that matter. Whether it's ignorance or laziness, any given maintenance procedure isn't guaranteed - in the manual or not. The maintenance manuals (presumably) are written by the mfr, not KYB, et al. The mfr may not not spec them with grease packed in the seals, but can recommend it during service.
  11. +1 I do it to every set of forks to go across my bench. My 2002 YZ250 (smoker) still has the stock seals. I have used Spectro and now Maxima waterproof grease. No reason for the switch other than convenience.
  12. Worst ride? Any ride involving buggies and beer.
  13. I believe kero or stoddard solvent is usually recommended for o-ring chains. I generally buy non-ring to simplify cleaning enjoying the possibility of using whatever may be more effective/handy for whatever may be on there. I clean mine in a parts washer with a grunge brush using stoddard solvent, then drip dry, then a soaking in a shallow tupperware tray with 30 or 40 weight. Granted, this may be more work than you want to do, but my chain is going 3 years now. With an o-ring chain, it still goes through the parts washer with a less vigorous brushing, then a wipe-down with WD-40. Gear lube is probably best if you're going to soak it in something, but it's too stinky for me. +1 on the PJ-1; sticks to fenders, wheels, subframes, airboxes, tires......chains - not so much.
  14. Something has certainly changed at Motosport. Did a lot of business with them and for years they were fantastic..........and there were some problems, but they were extremely gracious and generous in how they handled them. I haven't ordered from them in a full year now (do 99% of my biz w/ TT now) because for about a year before that they were the exact opposite of gracious and generous. Sure, one might argue that the economy makes it hard to take care of the customer, but it doesn't cost anything to just acknowledge a mistake. I had a couple of similar experiences as the OP. RMATV is great, but TT has been rock solid with calling and addressing *anything* out of the ordinary, i.e.: out of stock/discontinued/backorder status etc, etc.
  15. Chances are that you'll have to go through the carbs. Pay close attention to what you get out of the pilot. You can safely clean a pilot out by stripping some multi-strand insulated wire and using as many strands as you can fit in there. If you have a #60-#80 drill set, you can try that too if you're careful. Unfortunately, the best stuff to remove the tank liner is likely to be dangerous to your paint. MEK and Acetone would probably be most effective, but perhaps a painter will chime in and suggest something better. To provide some layer of protection, you could use an extremely heavy slathering of wax (and don't bother buffing), and I have read about some others even coating the outside of the tank with grease, but it seems like it would make handling the tank risky in regard to slipping/dropping and the consequent probable paint damage.........after trying to avoid just that. Of course, your tank will no longer be protected on the inside. The "Kreem" kits can be a nightmare if you are impatient. There is also something with "POR" in the name.