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MitchCasto

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About MitchCasto

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    West Virginia
  1. MitchCasto

    2001 520 Stalls when warmed up

    Hi again, it turned out to be my valves out of adjustment - too tight. No stalling now. thanks, Mitch
  2. Hi, I've been reading around about HID headlights and that these require DC power - which often means a new stator and other complicated mods. But, I was wondering, can one simply wire the HID light to the battery and include and on/off switch ( and a fuse ) ? My bike is a 2001 520 EXC. Would the stock stator keep the battery charged if the HID is drawing less than 30 watts ? I'm not sure what the 520 EXC output is. Baja Designs has a chart that says ' Dual 25/100 '. It's on page 24 at this link - http://tinyurl.com/57qrlx - Mitch http://www.bajadesigns.com/2005%20Web%20si...catalog2007.pdf
  3. MitchCasto

    10 min valve adjustment The video

    KTM RFS Valve Adjustment on YouTube transcript of instructions Courtesty of McGoodies.com This is a KTM RFS 450. Today we're going to be learning how to do a valve adjustment the quick and easy way. The first things we're going to do is remove the seat, the tank; we're going to loosen the radiators and remove the radiator braces. There's a couple of years that this procedure won't work exactly the same way, that's the ' 03 450 and the '03 plus 525 SX's. OK these are the tools you'll need to do this project: [ flat screwdriver, 8mm wrench, 10mm wrench, new valve cover gaskets ] Let's get the seat and tank off, then you're going to want to remove radiator braces, loosen the radiator mounts, remove covers-screws, So, we'll go through that real quick, For easier access you're going to remove this one tank mount... You're going to remove your radiator cover and this pertains to both sides, not just one. Loosen the radiator bolt brackets; make sure you put it where you can find everything when you're done. Once we're done we have the radiators loose; what we're gonna do now is clear a few things out of the road to make it easier to work on the bike : your two quick disconnects for your stator, you're gonna pop those apart, just to get them out of the way - we just want to clearance this area up to make it easier to get in to the back valve cover - easiest way to do this is to get a ratchet wrench, that way you can get up under everything, speed through it and not having to be fignthing a one-turn wrench at a time - so we just buzz through here... Now if you do this according to the KTM manual, you need to drain the radiators and remove them, but there's really no reason to, with a long screw driver and a feeler gauge, you can get right in there. One thing that's really nice to do, is if you have an hour meter, that way you can track the exact hours you have on the motor, that's run hours, then you'll know exactly how long you've been running between valve adjustments, otherwise it's all just a guess. As you can see here, we've installed an hour meter, in the air box of this bike. The hour meter picks up on a lead that you drill a little hole through the front of the air box small enough for the wire through the air box so that it seals, then you can see where you take the wire up and you can wrap it around the ignition coil and all that does is it senses the electrical field and causes the counter to run, so the counter is actual hours of run time, it's not how long you've been out on the trail; you'll find there's a big difference between how many hours you've been out on the trail versus how many hours is actually on your motor. Now to set your Top Dead Center, usually you have to do from the front here, there's a lock down bolt for the crank. You have to figure out if you're 180 degrees off Top Dead Center. The way we adjust the valves here, we don't need to do that so that's a few less steps that we have to do, what we Do do : Put the bike in high gear, rotate the wheel forward - using the compression release makes it easier to rotate forward ... and what you're going to do is rotate the wheel forward until you see one of the rocker arms move, either the intake or the exhaust - it doesn't matter. So if you look down, see our intakes are moving... Now if you go past that, you're at Top Dead Center, but you're 180 out, your valves are in the overlap stroke of the cam and as you can see if I move the wheel at all, both intakes and exhaust both move at the same time one is opening and one is closing; that's the wrong Top Dead Center; what you want to do is to roll past it ... when you're 180 off of Top Dead Center, you will be caught in the overlap of the cam lobes, in the intakes and exhausts and as you can see when I move the wheel, the intakes and exhausts both move at the same time, if you adjust at this point you'll be about 40-thousandths off on your valve adjustment, you don't want to do that, it gets noisy not having them properly adjusted so what you do is just like that, you roll past where the overlap is on the cam and if you continue rolling you can see now we are only moving the intake valves, you roll backwards and you'll see there's a time-delay moving the intakes and exhaust, so what we're going to do, we're going to leave it in the backward position to where the exhausts are making contact with the lifted cam lobe. Then what we do, we know that the intakes are completely closed, so now we go and check our valves. Use a feeler gauge - Five Thousandths KTM recommended spec, you slip it under the tappet and here his adjustment is just right ... there's no need to adjust this one valve - if it'll slip under nice and snug - you don't want to force it, you don't want to bend it, just nice and snug; then you'll know that you're good. Now let's check the other side, it's doing the same thing...This is a little loose, probably about a thousandths loose, you we're going to go ahead and tighten it up just a hair. To do that you need a 10mm wrench and a flat blade screw driver ... you loosen your locking nut on the tappet, now using a light finger pressure, you will just very lightly, I'm just using 2 fingers, I'm not really wrenching on the screwdriver, just down to where it snugs up, then what you're going to do, you're going to hold it in place and tighten the locking nut back down. Now I'm going to show you another trick real quick. This is you're out in the field and you feel you need to do a valve adjustment, you can do it without a feeler gauge. It's called the 6-turn Method. And what you do, the pitch of the threads mathematically comes out to a sixth of a turn is 5-thousandths of an inch. You notice that your locking nut has 6 points on it. So you take your screwdriver and you aim and go ahead and tighten it all the way down ( oops slipped there ). Line up with one of the points of the nut. Now what you're gonna do, you're just gonna turn the tip of the screwdriver to the next point on the nut and that's gonna be a sixth of a turn. So we're gonna go from here ,,, to here. Then you lock it down holding the adjuster screw in place. Now it's about 10 foot pounds to hold those in place, so you don't want to wrench on them very hard. Now here's our 5-thousandths - slips right in perfect fit, we didn't even have to measure. The fronts are a little harder, the exhausts are a little harder because you gotta work around the radiators, but not that much of a difference. Now what we're gonna do is go ahead and rotate the wheel until our intakes move. See here our intakes are moving and our exhausts are not. So you roll right up to it, that's the start of the intake stroke ... that's actually the Finish of the intake stroke. So now we're going to do the exhaust. To do this, get your radiator out of the way, push your wheel out of the way, and then come in from the side just like this. Make your adjustment ... we're spot on right here and you're adjustment will the same on your exhaust, it's 5-thousandths of an inch or a sixth of a turn whichever works. So that intake is fine. Now we're just going to move everything out of the way, rotate this radiator out of the way, and do the same thing. And that intake is perfect, er, that Exhaust is perfect. That's pretty much it in a nutshell for doing your valve adjustments without worrying about Top Dead Center or worrying about locking anything down. What we're gonna do now is put new gaskets on the covers and button everything back up. One thing you do want to do is that I do recommend you doing is that you track your adjustments especially if you have an hour meter. Go 20 hours as KTM recommended, write down if they moved at all. This way you have a running total of how much your valves have moved. Once you get to about 10-thousandths adjustment, you know your valves are starting to cup, and it's time to consider a rebuild. Until then, keep adjusting, keep counting and ride all day. Recap of Valve Adjustment Tools 1. 8mm socket 2. 8mm box end wrench 3. 10mm box end wrench 4. .005" feeler gauge 5. flat blade screw driver 6. valve cover gaskets To order any special tools or parts go to : www.mcgoodies.com 2084 Foothill Blvd. Pasadena, CA 91107 or call 1-888-252-2000 and ask for Tim or Travis THE END -Mitch
  4. Hi everyone, I've got a 2001 520 exc that has been running great until recently. When I start it up with the motor cold, it runs just fine like always. But, finally after it gets warmed up good , it won't idle ( not overheating since the radiators down overflow ). I'll be riding along, but then reach a rough spot, slow down to idle and then it stalls if there is not enough traction to coast against the motor. Of course if I pull in the clutch it dies even faster. In the morning when the motor is cold it fires right up, but once it suddenly quits when the motor has been running, it does not want to start. The battery is strong and it will crank and crank, but - no start. Then, I let it sit for about 15-20 minutes and it fires right up. But, it will try to stall on me if I don't keep the revs up. Any suggestions as to what is wrong ? - Mitch
  5. Hi, I'd seen this post about the AMA Rules Change so that 250 2-strokes would compete directly with 250 4-strokes. I live out in the sticks and never found out what happened -- who's winning ?? How about the open class - did anyone come up with 500cc 2-strokes - how did they do. just curious, I'm happy with my KTM 520 in the sticks, Mitch link to rules changes AMA on this page http://www.thumpertalk.com/forum/sho...d.php?t=578132
  6. MitchCasto

    How to perform axle alignment?

    Hi, my ktm 520 doesn't seem to have any markings to align the axle. So, I simply counted the adjusters' threads on both sides to make certain they were the same distance back in the swingarm. It seemed to work well - one way I could tell was that the bike rolled easier, coasted further. It made me think that motorcycle wheel alignment is probably an overlooked way to make motorcycles handle better ( if the wheels aren't pointing in the same direction ... ugh ). It would also make them a smidgen faster by not wasting power plus handling bad. -Mitch
  7. MitchCasto

    Axle Alignment KTM 520 2001

    Hi, thanks for the replies. I decided to count the threads of the adusters- this seems pretty precise. -Mitch
  8. Hi, I am having trouble aligning the rear axle on my KTM 520. This has nothing to do with finding the proper chain tension. The problem is making sure the axle ( and so the rear wheel, etc. ) is straight when I tighten the axle. The 520 ( and I think 525 530 ) don't have an obvious adjuster on each side like a snail cam. ) I cannot find any marks along the swing arm itself or anything on the axle slot either. People tell me, 'just eyeball it' , but this seems like a bad way to do it since being crooked even a bit must hurt the handling and put a sideways bind on the chain that will wear it faster. There seem to be aftermarket companies that make better chain alignment parts, but I'd rather find a way to use the stock set-up and not spend 100 dollars or so on such a basic operation. Again, this question is not about the chain tension on the KTM linkless suspension and how it needs to be looser than most bikes... thanks, Mitch
  9. Hi everyone, Enclosed Chains were on serious off-road bikes up to about 1970, but for no clear reason were discountinued. Maybe some aftermarket company could look at old designs, take the best ideas and modernize the concept. Traditionally these had an oil bath, but with modern sealed and lubricated chains ( O-Ring ) this wouldn't be necessary. However, enclosed sealed chains would protect them from water and dirt would make them last much longer. For playing around, the pound of unsprung weight wouldn't be noticeable, but the chain might last multiples of times longer. When racing, it could be removed if one thought it would actually make one faster. A short google search found that one 1967 Bultaco street bike owner reported getting 33,000 miles on one chain - not likely to be common ... but. In the USA, we rarely see any 2-wheeler with an enclosed chain, but in Europe and Asia, where 2-wheelers are used for actual daily transportation, these are common. In the USA, both bicycle and motorcycles are almost always only for recreation, not transportation. Here is photo found using Google Image Search- an Enclosed Chain on a 1974 Bultaco Matador http://www.pbase.com/deadelvis/image/45021057 - Mitch Casto ps the US Patent Class might be 180/350 - many ideas at http://www.uspto.gov and, maybe better since the bikes were built there, the European patents at http://www.espacenet.com Both will have expired patents free to use. ( note : to view the uspto patents you must download the free adobe acrobat reader as well as alternatiff )
  10. Hi, I need to buy a new chain and sprockets. So, now I am wondering if the chain will last longer if the sprockets are a larger diameter. For example, a front/rear 13/51 is close to the same ratio as a 15/60 -- 3.92. It seems reasonable that if the chain is held in place by more teeth of the larger sprocket, it should wear longer -- right ? This must be a classic question since the beginning of chains on sprockets over a hundred years ago. To take the proposition to it's extreme, imagine a countershaft sprocket so tiny, it had only 3 teeth --- wouldn't that cause a chain to wear faster ? Here is a gear ratio chart to see the combinations of front and rear sprockets that give similar ratios- http://www.renthal.com/features/ratio.asp -Mitch
  11. Hi, I'm in West Virginia and trying to convert my 2001 KTM 520 title to street legal. So far, so good. But now, the DMV is telling me that Federal Law requires that I have a non-resettable Odometer. I do not know if this is even truly a law, but I want to go along and do what they say. I have a little Bell digital bicycle speedometer, but the mileage is resettable. Are there any digital speedometer/odometers that are not resettable ? As a last resort, I'll install a mechanical speedometer/odometer but this would take a lot of work and money since my bike doesn't even have the drive gear on the hub, I'd have to buy a lot of parts. So, I'd like to get a digital one with the simple little magnet pick-up. Any suggestions ? - Mitch
  12. Hi everyone, I bought a used KTM 520 EXC without a kickstand. So, I got a TrailTech replacement which said to use the stock spring. However, I can't find the mounting location to the bike's frame to attach the upper part of the spring. The kickstand's mounting place is obvious, but darned if I can find the attachment point for the other end. Can someone tell me where to hook this ? -- Mitch
  13. Hi, does anyone know how watts output the KTM 520 makes ? ... want to use a light or 2 with 55 watts each and maybe heated grips. - Mitch
  14. MitchCasto

    DRZ-E No Electricity - FUSE OK What's Wrong ?

    Hi, I checked my battery this morning and it seems to have plenty of power. I don't have a voltage meter, so I ran a wire directly from the battery to the headlight and it lit it up very brightly - white light, not yellowed. So, I need to take off the tank and look for a grounded wire next ( which I won't be able to do until Monday - gotta work ). As for your toasted stator, I don't know either - corrosion caused a short ? One of my friends works for a company that repairs starters and electric generators. If the bike shops are crowded due to Summer, like here, one can try the starter / generator local businesses. Mitch
  15. MitchCasto

    DRZ-E No Electricity - FUSE OK What's Wrong ?

    Hi, Logan County ... if you haven't heard about it, they've worked with the National Park Service and built the Hatfield-McCoy Trail for motorcycles and atv's. http://www.trailsheaven.com/ They already have 100's of miles of trails and will add more. My riding area is outside it, but, as you know the terrain is similar to the photo I posted above. small world, Mitch
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