Shifter14

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About Shifter14

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  1. or........does anyone have any contact info to get o hold of him ?
  2. I'm road racing the CRF450 in a karting application and I'm interested in better throttle response......so I'd like to find the lightest factory ignition rotor available. Does anyone know for sure exactly what weights the factory flywheels are ? Service Honda lists a P/N 31110-MEN-000 for 02-04 and a P/N 31110-MEN-003 for 04-05 ....so apparently there is some difference. I also thought about machining off the flange on my 03 flywheel. It looks like that would reduce the weight by 4 oz....and it's out at the edge where it would do the most good. Anyone ever done this ? Thanks in advance..........................
  3. Thanks for the reply. When we remove the powervalve itself, we replace it with a flush fitting aluminum plug that fills up all the openings, in the cylinder and makes a nice smooth exhaust port that flows much better than a stock port with the power valve in the wide open position. Just curious but why would I need to keep the pinion shaft in place? It no longer operates anything. Is it just to plug a hole that would otherwise leak oil ?
  4. I'm running a 2000 CR250 in SuperKart racing where I'm constantly over 8000 RPM...so the powervalve is useless and is usually replaced with a smooth fitting plug to clean up the exhaust passage. Can anyone tell me if I can safely remove all of the power valve actuating components under the right side cover....or do I have to block any of the remaining openings to prevent the gear oil from going somewhere it's not supposed to....or to prevent an air leak...etc ? Thanks in advance. Gary
  5. No offense taken T.RexRacing. I'm not asking how to operate the tools......just what procedures others have found to work the best. Previous posts have described two methods - notching the gears and bushings to provide better oil access (which I understand and have performed on my trans) and drilling the shaft for oil feed. This I'm not sure I understand, and would like a more detailed explanation.....including any comments on how hard it was to drill the shaft with common drill bits. I'm running a highly modified CRF450 in organized SuperKart road racing. We run all over the US at tracks like Daytona, Road America, Mid Ohio..etc. where we regularly reach and hold speed of 125+ on the straights. If there are mods to help the trans hold up better under sustained high speeds, I'd be happy to learn from someone elses experience.
  6. Thanks for the tip. I did a search and got even more confused. I found another thread that referenced grinding oil grooves in the gear ID and notching the bushings to promote better oiling. The other thread about the top speed bike definitely mentioned drilling. Sooo......what is the real fix? TIA.................
  7. I'm a new member, and I read a previous thread (by tillertracker, I believe) that mentioned drilling the rear tranny shaft of the CRF 450 for better lubrication. Can someone explain in detail how this is done ? The shaft is already drilled lengthwise, at least for most of the length, so I'm assuming that the drilling referred to is cross-drilling? Why only the rear shaft ? Won't the front shafr benifit from the same treatment ? -Where, what size and how many holes need to be drilled ? -Is the shaft soft enough to be drilled with conventional (TiN or cobalt) drill bits ? -Is the center passage already fed with pressurized oil, or is a mod required to route oil to the shaft? I also run extended periods at full throttle in 5th gear, and it seems like a great modification to make the gears live longer. Thanks in advance.................