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    • Bryan Bosch

      JUST IN!   04/24/2018

      HOW TO: 4-STROKE PISTON REPLACEMENT DONE RIGHT!

PilotNut

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About PilotNut

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  1. I must be missing something here because I don't understand a word of what you just said...
  2. I think that you may be confusing two seperate processes here. If you were able to have the cylinder bored than you have a steel cylinder and there is no need to replate. Steel lined cylinders, like the one you currently have, are bored to the correct size (sized to the piston) and then lightly honed to prepare the surface for "break in". At this point the cylinder is ready for reasssembly and break-in. The plating you are referring to is a process commonly done to later model cylinders that are made from a different type of metal (lighter and softer) that can not be bored and honed like steel cylinders. These cylinders must be sized to the piston and then replated with a thin but very strong chrome-type plating. The other option with this type of cylinder is to have the cylinder "sleeved" which is a process by which the cylinder is bored and a steel "sleeve" is inserted. After a cylinder has been sleeved, it can later be bored a few times just like a factory steel cylinder. Hope this helps, Marc
  3. Are you sure the noise is coming from the starter? The two issues that you describe (poor performance and continuous starter noise) wouldn't typically be related. Is it possibe that the noise you are hearing is coming from the upper part of the motor? I'm thinking that your issue would be more consistent with a cam, valve or timing chain issue.
  4. Sent you a PM yesterday - I have stock exhaust and right side panel.
  5. I need to replace the top end on my 1997 DR350se. Finding an auto-decompression head (1994 and up) in good usable shape is proving to be harder than expected. I have a 1993 donor bike with a good head. I have been told by a very experienced and reliable source (thank you Jim) that the heads will interchange, effectively making my 1997 a manual decompression bike with electric start requiring the rider to pull the decompression lever prior to the push of the start button. How do you think this retrofit repair will affect the ease-of-use, performance and overall resale value of the bike? Thanks
  6. Need to replace top-end on my '97 DR350se. Looking for good DR350 top-end w/auto decompression (1994 or newer). Primarily interested in cylinder head/cam/valve assembly. I believe I can salvage my current cylinder. Will consider purchasing entire bike if the price is right. I am located in central NJ and am willing to travel within reason to pickup. Otherwise I will need parts shipped to me. Thanks, Marc
  7. Just found this down in your neck of the woods (Mt Juliet, TN). Wanna do me a favor and buy it and send me the motor? You can have the rest of the bike... 1998 suzuki dirtbike runs great rear tire almost new has new tire for front needs nothing just a new rider $950 call david 615-474-9909
  8. I tried to upload a pic of the bike but the upload failed
  9. Good advice - the bike is located in central NJ
  10. Thanks for the information. Can you point me in the direction for a source of good used parts? If I cant find what I need, its heading for ebay "as is". The rest of the bike is in really nice shape and it has a clean tile.
  11. I just picked up a 1997 DR350se that the seller claimed had a "stater problem". The price was right so I took a chance. Turns out the starter wasn't the problem. The motor is locked-up due to an exhaust valve failure. From what I can see through the exhaust port (haven't pulled the top end off yet), one of the exhaust valves broke off inside the motor. Before I dive into this potentially costly repair, I need to research/locate/price used parts. I see lots of used parts for the off-road version of the DR350, my question: are the top-end parts for the "dirt" version of the DR350 the same as for the "street" model? I'm concerned about things like cam timing and the decompression mechanisms (manual vs auto) among other things that may be slightly different in the top-ends of the two models. Any help, comments or suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks, Marc
  12. The connecting rod bearing (small-end) on my '02 YZ125 failed taking the entire top end with it. I disassembled the motor and found that the rod is "binding" at the bottom of the stroke. The rest of the rotation seems fine and the big-end bearing spins freely. It doesn't seem to be metal-on-metal but I can't be sure. Any ideas as to what the issue may be? Bent rod or bent crank perhaps? I need to do the top-end and my gut tells me to replace the whole motor so if anyone has a good top and/or bottom end to sell (01-04 will fit my frame I believe), please PM me. Thanks, Marc