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About Johnfrmcal

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  1. Johnfrmcal

    Mikuni TM33 float height

    My observation exactly, 39 views and no replies. So, I will document my experiences on this post. My float level appears to be set at 14mm. My bike is trying to die at idle on extreme downhills, which I am guessing is a rich condition due to too high of a float level so I am bumping the float level by about a millimeter and a half to 15.5mm. I'll report back with results.
  2. This is getting ridiculous, I've looked all over the web for a float height setting for the TM33...to no avail. Does anyone know what this should be? I've seen 14mm, I've seen 17mm, but these are all for various Mikuni's, I can't find anything specifically for the TM33.
  3. Johnfrmcal

    How many miles on your big bore KLX

    I just finished up putting in the BB351 kit and BB TM33(34) carb today. While I was at it I put on a KLX300R header, ground out the weld bead (it's pretty big, about .100 inch, it's 1.065 before grinding and 1.165 after) and put on a Stroker SX1 exhaust. I knew it was gonna be golden because my KLX300R with pipe and pumper carb is just awesome. I only rode down the street a few times, but I couldn't resist the urge to jump the curb and pull a nice wheelie. So much for break-in, lol. I'm more of a "just ride it" type of guy anyway I guess.... Bike is as it should be with the big bore and the pumper carb. Stock is just simply unacceptable, the transformation is nothing short of amazing. The carb clears everything no problem. Maybe it doesn't on an '09, but mine's an '07 and there was no frame grinding necessary or anything like that. Took me a minute to figure out how to get it in, but once I did it was cake. What are you sea-level guys that have 351's and this carb running for jetting? I popped it in with the jetting Bill suggested, 37.5 and 137.5. It fired right up and runs pretty good (then again I only rode it a few minutes), but high idle was found with the screw way out, like 3 turns or more, and it does poppity pop a bit on decel (not loud pops, just some light gurgling). Also, the idle seems to me like it wavers just a bit. My setup: KLX300R header with weld bead ground out Stroker SX1 exhaust Snorkel removed BB351 kit BB TM33 carb
  4. Johnfrmcal

    Carb won't idle pointed down hill??????

    That's kinda what I was thinking as I was riding since it's the only thing that seems like could logically be related to angle/attitude, but then again I'm trying to figure out what it would actually do to cause this. Perhaps if the float level is too low, there isn't enough fuel in the bowl during a nose-down attitude to be sucked up? Yeah I almost felt guilty...after having our Christmas vacation totally rained out and only getting to ride one day out of 12, this past weekend it rained on Thursday then cleared up for the weekend and hit 70 degrees and sunshine...it was unreal...
  5. My KLX300 has the BB34 (TM33) carb, FSW header and White Bros. pipe. Runs awesome and has great power and bark. The only thing is, when I'm on a relatively steep downhill, the bike doesn't want to idle. At first I thought it was my imagination (the downhill part of the symptoms), but I was back out yesterday and zipped around for about 50 miles. Every time I got on a reasonably steep downhill trail, the idle dropped way down and if I didn't blip it, it would die. And then as soon as I get on flat ground or uphill again, the thing idles fine. I've even got the idle turned up, and still when pointed downhill it wants to die. Anybody ever experienced this before and have any solutions? I haven't talked to Bill yet but this is weird...
  6. Johnfrmcal

    How many miles on your big bore KLX

    You need to get both. If you want to run the 300 exhaust, you have to run a 300 header. If you want to run a 250S exhaust, you have to run the 250S header. Must run as a pair, can't switch it up...can't run 300 exhaust with a 250S and vice-versa, but the 300 system will work on your 250S as a pair.
  7. Johnfrmcal

    Just noticed my gearing

    If that motor setup won't haul the mail with a 47 tooth sprocket then somebody screwed up the motor build! My 300 with just a pipe and pumper carb is already down to a 44 on the rear (for dual sporting) and it motors me around just fine. Granted I'm only 160, but the 365 should be a monster.
  8. Johnfrmcal

    Pumper Carb selection question

    I have been doing some searching and may be close to finding my own answer. From the Kustom Kraft website, a write-up about their 330 kit: http://kustom-kraft.com/klx250bb.html In the article at the bottom, dyno tuning was actually performed on the 330 kit to see if the BB34 was limiting horsepower. An FCR35 was swapped in, and didn't make any difference. Quote from the article: "Could I still be under-carbureted with the 34mm Mikuni, or was this the trade-off for choosing low-end torque over peak horsepower? To find out, I contacted Jerry Leighton at Four Stroke Works in Hesperia, California. Jerry is known for his work with Larry Roesseler on his winning KLX. He has modified and improved parts for four-stroke motorcycles since they began replacing two-strokes at the track. Jerry immediately prepped a Keihin 35mm flat-slide pumper carb and shipped it to me overnight. Dyno results were almost identical. Apparently, carburetion was not the issue, at least not at the rpm range we were working within. Both carbs performed well." Based on this, I can't imagine that a TM36 is going to have monumental improvement either. And since Bill mods these carbs out to bolt right up, and he has a wealth of jetting experience with it as well (he gave me a starting point for my 300 when I bought his carb and it was spot-on), I think I'm going to stick to my original plan and get the BB34.
  9. The words "pumper carb" apparently show up in about a zillion threads, so please excuse me for not reading them all and potentially asking a repeat question. I have a 300 with the Bill Blue 34 (TM33) pumper carb on it, FSW header and White Bros. exhaust. Extremely happy with it, runs great. My question is, I'm about to do the BB351 conversion on my KLX250S, and I'm going to be running the FMF Q4/Mega Bomb exhaust. It's time for me to choose a carb. I'm really happy with the BB34 pumper on my 300, and he runs that carb on his 351's apparently. But over on Planet KLX they say that you should consider the TM36 if you're running a 300, and since this will be a 351, the inference of course would be that the TM36 is the way to go. But with such choices as the BB34, FCR35, TM36 etc., which way would you go? I know that bigger is not always better. I know that there are also issues such as "signal strength" and that sometimes, smaller inlets offer quicker response, while larger inlets might offer better top end. I'm not looking for a 100mph KLX, so top end is not my goal, this isn't a drag bike! Anybody with real world experience with these different carbs that can make a suggestion? I was about to order up the BB34 but thought I'd ask some opinions first....
  10. Johnfrmcal

    New Guy, heres my KLX365.

    Make that 4...
  11. 100% agreed. When I hear people downplay the pumper, it makes me wonder if they've actually ridden a KLX300 with a pumper. Because I know that for me, it felt night and day from the moment I went the first 20 feet with the pumper carb. The difference absolutely amazed me (I was expecting it to be one of those mods that wasn't quite worth the coin, I was very pleasantly surprised).
  12. Johnfrmcal

    Newbee Starting/ACR issue...HELP!!

    Hey Brewster, you're not implying that with the ACR timing mod done, you are then able to kick straight through are you? Or is that the case? Or, even after the ACR timing mod, are you still supposed to stop on compression, return kick lever to top, move the kick lever about half way, return to top and then kick ("normal" KLX start procedure)? Trying to understand this because I have two KLX's, a 1998 and a 2007. My understanding is that the 2007 is supposed to have the "corrected" ACR timing, but I still follow "the procedure" religiously and it works great...but...it is still not "start by hand" as some folks mention when they refer to the ACR timing mod being done. Also, on my 1998, it has the Stroker manual decomp mod done, so I have nothing to compare to as far as the older ACR. Bottom-line is, if the ACR timing mod allows you to easily kick through without following "the procedure", then that's what I want on both bikes, although I'm pretty sure I read somewhere that even with the ACR timing mod you're supposed to follow "the procedure"?
  13. Johnfrmcal

    klx noise vs performance

    Hmmm, that wasn't my experience...I got the Bill Blue 34mm, told him my elevation, and he told me what jets to put in. It purred from the first kick and runs like a champ. I was expecting the dreaded tuning rodeo, but it wasn't the case. It was totally install-and-go....
  14. Johnfrmcal

    cr forks on xr 400 bike info ?

    Set it on a socket just big enough for the bottom of the stem to fit in. Put the nut on the stem flush with the edge, set a block of wood on top of that (or a brass plate even better) and then take a sledge hammer (one of the handheld sized ones work great) and smack that mutha! I know it sounds crude, I thought so too, but an AFM racer who is always rebuilding bikes told me about that method (and he's a machinist so he has access to more glorified equipment and presses if he needed it) when I was doing a front end swap on my street bike. The stem came out no problem.
  15. Johnfrmcal

    Setting off stoplights

    True, and cops who act like unreasonable asshats give cops a bad name. Do you ride on the street much with anything other than your police bike? Has it ocurred to you that your bike weighs half a ton and has an incredible amount of magnetic wave inducing electronics on board? Tripping lights on your bike may work for you, but for the rest of us riding 300 pound dual sports or 400 pound sportbikes, they DO NOT TRIP. I'll be happy to put you on any of the 4 street-legal bikes in my garage (all insured and registered) and take you for a 30 minute ride around my house (I am a licensed MC operator). Of course, in that 30 minutes we will go about 1 mile, sitting for 5 minutes at the first 6 lights we hit until we run them (well, maybe we'll get further if other traffic comes along and we're on a multiple lane road). I'm sorry, but it is absolutely a problem and it's absurd to pretend it doesn't exist.