snpl

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About snpl

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    Greece
  1. Hello all. Im trying with a friend that owns a KLR 650 C model to see if the 320 oversized rotor from EBC or Galfer , fits his bike. Im kindly requesting a owner of A model <'07 tou measure the following. A)Inner diametre of front rotor B)Axle to Rim inner edge distance C)Center of bolt to Center of bolt distance. I am trying to post an image but I cant do it.You can see the image in the same post on advrider forum : http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=525941 Please if anyone has previous experience with the subject , to share his knowledge with us!
  2. Engine is reassembled as is and mounted on bike.So far has run 400klm smoothly with no problems. Ill report if explodes...
  3. If I understood right you want to remove magneto from crank? You need a special tool for this job. The tool is like a Bell with a big screw on top that drills through the bell.The base is like a big nut that attaches to the center of the magneto.As you tight the screw , the screw pushes the bolt of the magneto en pulls the magneto out of the crank. Sorry for my english but I dont know the terminology needed. I can send a picture of mine if it helps you.
  4. I used OEM bearings almost everywhere.Actually the crankshaft bearings are the only ones that where not the same brand with the old ones.Old ones where koyo and I used NSK and SKF.But they have the same numbers so they are actually the same dimentions. I noticed today that the crank moves with the bearing (left side as we ride). I tightened the nut attached to the crankshaft and also tightened the bolt that fits magneto to crankshaft but the crankshaft still moves.Propably a bit less (0,7mm??)...
  5. During engine reassembly a noticed the following: Although crankase is closed (bolts attached and tightened) i noticed that crankshaft tends to move for about 1mm in its axis direction. Is this normal? Propably it also moves with its bearing from the left side within crankcase (magneto side). I have not tightened with the specified torque yet, the nut that it is attached to crankshaft (from the magneto side, beneath the clutch gear). Should this cause the problem? Or maybe it is a crankase problem? Edit: Note also that i have replaced all 8 crankase bearings with new ones. Forgive my english, Thank you.
  6. 1) The Voltage regulator/rectifier is essential as it converts 3phase (or 2phase) AC into DC voltage needed by most* of the electrical parts of the bike. (* In some models Headlights and stop lamps need AC).Be aware that, depending on the circuit the regulator is using, battery may be needed for regulator to work properly. 2) Regulator converts excesive electical energy to heat.Large headsink and mounting on frame helps quick disspation of heat.
  7. Hello Mine is a '96 , has a torque limiter and also makes occasionally a 'clack' when the motor is turned of.I have found out that this is the sound that torque limiter produces when it is rotated.In my opinion you should fix it (if your bike isnt equiped with a toruq limiter).It is not so expensive and it will not take much time to do it.I also dont think 35k miles are a lot for this engine.Below you can see a picture of where the torque limiter is located. This is the left (as you ride the bike) crankcase cover.Drain the engine oil first.Detouch the generator cable.You just remove the bolts and remove the cover.Replace the gear, put a new gasket tighten the bolts and you are ok.
  8. DR 650 SE '96 135000km (~84.000miles). Has some transmition problems which are discribed in DR650 Gearbox Issues topic.
  9. Does any one have a clear view of what exactly happens? For example is any specific gear torn apart , or has excesive damage? Gears that form the 3rd gear are : rising 4th driven gear (1) which locks 3rd driven gear (2) with drive shaft and 3rd drive gear (3).
  10. Below you can see the half part of the right (as we ride the bike) of the crankcase. Be aware that the driveshaft and the countershaft are actually alligned so the 2nd drive gear and the 2nd Driven gear are in contact. In the picture this is not happening because when I split the crankcase , countershaft moved so in picture is a bit higher from its original position. I will try and explain a bit how the transmition between Neutral and 2nd works: 2nd Drive gear rotates as it is attached and "locked" to the countershaft.But the 2nd Driven gear is actually rotating freely on drive shaft (Neutral Position).It needs 4th driven gear to rise up,bind with it and force drive shaft to rotate (2nd Gear Position). This happens because the 4th driven gear is bind to drive shaft in a way that they rotate together but the gear can move up-down. 4th driven gear is moving up and down because the 1st fork embraces it and forces it to move like this.The fork its self is forced by the gear shifting cam rotation. The fork has an cylinder arm that it is attached to the cam's guidlines.Guidelines look like this /\ ------/ \-------\ \------ (sorry for diagram but i have no clear picture for it) As the cam is rotating it forces the arm (and so the fork ) to move up or down to certain positions. The arrows on the pictures indicate the position of 1st and 2nd shifting fork as cam rotates to 1st, Neutral and snd gear. The Problem: When I eventually opened the crankcase I believed that the damage would be something obvious.Possible broken teeth of gears, forks, or other parts.The real problem was that everything looked ok (with no excesive damage but all parts had minor surface - contact - damage). I made a conclusion that all this small problems were added together and formed the automatic gear shifting problem. What is happening: As 2nd driven gear and 4th driven gear come close, the damaged contact surfaces cannot hold the torque provided so the gears detach (To see exactly how these gears work please consult a online part store or wait for me to post a picture!).The detachment pushes the 4th gear down so the fork is forced to move also.Eventually the fork's arm presses the cam guidline and the cam rotates to neutral. If you look carefully on the picture you will see that the 2nd gear position is in a guidline that forms "a top of a hill" on that spot.So it is easy for the arm to rollback to neutral position. I hope you can understand what is happening.Plz forgive my expression mistakes but mechanical terminology in english is something completely new to me.
  11. Hello everyone! Im from greece. I have a '96 model with 135.000klm. 2nd gear was moving to neutral as rpm's got higher. I have dissasembled the engine to figure out what was the problem. Ill post some fotos and try to explain below.
  12. Can you discribe plz where that hose is located? (an over discribtion of the ventilation system would be nice) thx all in advance.
  13. Im sorry for the missunderstanding , but my english voacabulary in engineering is not that good.The problem is with the oil seal of (the crankcase ??) the gear (on to the chain is driven) above the gerashift lever.
  14. No.I use 15W50 Motul, aprox 2.3lt.
  15. Is there any explanation why the seal push out sometimes? I discovered that clogged oil passage ways are a cause for a high pressure , so the seal comes out.But since ive cleared them I have allready changed 4 times the seal due to a heavy leak from the transmission.Lock tite method hasnt work also.The seal was torn apart.