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      JUST IN!   04/24/2018

      HOW TO: 4-STROKE PISTON REPLACEMENT DONE RIGHT!

jimbogto68

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About jimbogto68

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  1. Mine is 93- as long as everything is working order, I cant think of any reason you should have issues.
  2. Doubt there is anything wrong with your engine. Honda manual says it should read 92 psi on a compression test on a hot engine with the throttle wide open. If the engine is cold, throttle not wfo, or battery/starter old thus spinning the engine slower, the results will be lower. Have him warm it up and try again if you'd like, but the general consensus is the difference in compression tests hot vs cold is somewhere around 10%. Which means a cold spec of around 83. Yes, 22 horsepower is lame. There is something major league wrong with the bike or more likely dyno operator/calibration error. especially if, as you say, "It already does amazing; my buddy on an F4i cannot get away from me." There is no way that happens on a broken XRL. That said, a high compression piston on these things is nice if you decide you want to tear into it. I recommend the JE piston rather than a wiseco in this application. 10.5 to 1 piston is the way to go. With the jetting right and running good fuel and it shouldn't ping or overheat. A high compression piston doesnt add a ton of horsepower by itself (maybe 2 or 3 horsepower max) but things that are harder to quantify like throttle response are massively improved.
  3. Clutch drag is a weird thing sometimes. I and many 1000s of others run rotella in our bikes religiously for years with no issues at all. A minority have complained about clutch drag. Interestingly, some have also complained about clutch drag using castrol 4t. A 40w or 50w oil is appropriate for this application and shouldn't be the cause of any issues. Perhaps try a good quality motorcycle specific synthetic like motul or royal purple, or try the honda GN4 oil and see if it helps. I second what B says- Usually dragging when warm is caused by incorrect oil, improper adjustment, or warped steels that effectively raise the stack height. Another more uncommon cause is a ridged clutch basket that makes the clutch "stick". If that's the case, a pass with a flat file to knock down the ridges is all it takes. If changing the oil doesn't fix your problem, an inspection of the clutch and basket is in order.
  4. I'm running the stock seat on mine. Thats all kind of relative. Stock for stock, the XRL seat is one of the best- much better than the DRZ and, in my opinion, the DR. An hour on the drz seat was brutal, I can go about twice that on the stock XRL seat before discomfort sets in. The seat concepts is a really nice seat that blows all the stockers out of the water and is absolutely a worthwhile upgrade. I plan on doing it sometime in the future. On any of them, if you are doing any longer rides like more than 2 hours in the saddle, definitely get a seat concepts upgrade. Your butt will thank you. Comfort wise (at least on the street), the DR is a great bike. It is low and plush though the seat is a little lacking, but I wouldnt run it around the motocross track. Its just too low and too soft. The XRL gives you true offroad capabilty while still being a good street bike. I have a 1" lowering link and raised the fork tubes to match which makes for a more reasonable height on the street while still having great ground clearance and travel. For me, the XRL was the right choice.
  5. Yeah they are all great bikes. You would probably be happy with the DR or XRL. the DRZ is also a great bike, but if you do a lot of slab time, any of the 650s are better suited.
  6. Nice, I really like those little hondas. I bet its going to be a great bike for you. Congrats and enjoy!
  7. You can build a tt500 for pretty cheap. Looks right, lot of heritage. I ran one at 540 10.5:1, cam, and flatslide and it was pretty quick and still easy to kick. XR650L engines are awesome. ditch the stock 8.3:1 piston and CV carb if you want to make bigger power. Not a ton of peak horsepower but torque for days. And there are big bore 720 kits available!
  8. I'm guessing you have a street dual sport kit? If i remember correctly they didn't come with brake lights stock, just a running light (please correct me if I am wrong). If it works on the front brake lever and not the rear then you probably have a bad rear switch. Assuming they use the pull type mechanical switch, they are cheap and super easy swap out. They get can get dirt/grime/water in them or just wear out over the years. Mine just went out a few weeks ago and it cost like 12 bucks to get a new one including shipping. Hydraulic switches that usually come with dual sport kits are pretty easy to swap out too. If it was working fine and now stopped working on both the front and rear, its probably just a bad bulb.
  9. I have had a yz250f, kx450, drz400s, and I currently have an XR650l. Drzs are good bikes, if a little underwhelming, at least to me. I liked mine quite a bit but didn't love it. Stock they are kinda slow (especially if you are hitting the freeways). A full exhaust system, e cams, and flatslide sure help. Suspension is decent. Lots of aftermarket support. A little buzzy on the roads. Before I bought the XRL, I considered a dr650. I got a chance to borrow one for a weekend. Great bike for trails and commuting, but low and significantly less dirtworthy suspension than the XRL. My mission is very similar to yours. Mostly street and trails, occasional two up. I also have a motocross track nearby. The XRL gets around the track pretty well. I chase the kids out there and while yes, it is heavy, it is not as bad as you'd think. With some minor mods like a lithium battery and a pipe you can pull an easy 20+ pounds off of it. You aren't going to be doing any massive whips or anything, but its a lot more capable than people give it credit for. It is pretty fun to to chase down and pass beginner riders on 450s with your headlight and license plate. It really digs out of the corners and handles the whoops no problem. Plus it has probably the most comfortable seat of the bikes I've ridden and can easily do two up. It's stone reliable, parts are cheap and easy to find, and makes plenty of power. Also they are cheap to purchase. I got mine (a 93 with 6500 miles on it) for 1500 bucks and put about about 500 into jetting, exhaust, battery, chain and sprockets, and tires. For 6 grand, you could easily buy a used low mileage XRL and a few year old YZ250f. Clearly, if you are just running the motocross track, a yzf or crf or the like is the way to go. But if you're not racing and are riding for fun, a DRZ or XRL can run around the track reasonably well, just don't plan on hitting the triples.
  10. Totally this. YZ250Fs flat haul. It is plenty fast to scare you. For a beginner and your size, I'd recommend a summer on something like a crf150f before stepping up to something like a yz250f or crf250. Once you're comfortable wringing the snot out of a 150f, then the transition to the 250, while a lot more bike, is much easier. And also, the crf150fs hold their value really well. Pick one up for like 1500-2000, ride it for a year and you can normally sell it for just as much as you bought it for.
  11. Yup. They are all the same. The only issue is on the really big tanks like the acerbis 5.8 is you sometimes have to relocate the turn signals on newer bikes (something like 98+). everything else is otherwise identical.
  12. Yeah it may be sealed now but itll most likely eventually leak. If you remove the plate and can get vice grips on it, try that. Otherwise a drill and extractor works pretty well.
  13. Shinko 705 and the kenda 761 are good for primarily street, and dont cost much at all. Decent for fire trails and gravel roads but you probably want something more aggressive if you do any significant or technical dirt riding. I'm actually a fan of the shinko sr241 which is a 4 ply dot tire with trials type tread. Pretty good on the street (but not as good as the aforementioned 705 or 761) and also darn good in the dirt. You can find sets for about 80-90 bucks. i got a set for my XR for 82 bucks including shipping.
  14. If its a runner in decent shape- go for it. Its not like 800 bucks is a huge risk to take. The twin carbs aren't that hard to tune. The right side carb is like a secondary- doesnt have a lot to it other than a main jet. The left side is the primary- the low speed/idle/drivability stuff is all done on that side. You can adjust when the second carb comes in which is usually somewhere around 1/2 throttle. If you can jet a single carb bike, its not really that much more complicated. edit- totally missed that its an 89 which is single carb. whoops- I still say go for it!
  15. My 93 650l BWP- love this heavy old thing. White bros full system 14tooth r sprocket Dave's carb mods 55/158 Battery Tender 120 relocated Xr600 side plates Crf front fender Knock off ktm light Shinko 241s And some other stuff- these things are great.