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dfcfu342 last won the day on April 16 2008

dfcfu342 had the most liked content!

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About dfcfu342

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  1. You might have nicked a valve stem seal on assembly. Shine a light down the exhaust and intake runners and look for an oil coat on one of the valve stems.
  2. It sounds like you're on the right track. Flames out the exhaust usually point to spark timing or cam timing being off. Since it runs fine at times that basically rules out cam timing. If I had to hazard a guess I would say you still have an ignition gremlin to find.
  3. Timing looks good. Are you using the decompression lever when measuring the compression?
  4. As others stated you can't tune out the off idle bog when you whack the throttle open, you'll have to train yourself to use more RPM. I would suggest going back to a higher leak jet. I personally use an 80 and line the results. Going too low will make you run rich as it will cause a long squirt from the leak jet. That main jet also sounds lean. A 180 or 185 is generally good for sea level. I use a 185 in Florida and get a great top end pull and a nice light brown spark plug.
  5. You're not going to get your money back out of it that you put in, it just isn't worth enough. If it will be ridden by someone and get some enjoyment out of it then it may be worth the money. How bad is the scoring? Will a hand hone cover them up? 1) It could be starvation or sloppy building left something like a circlip or metal flakes in the cylinder. 2) See above 3) See above again. Bottom line, it will need another top end, maybe a cylinder replating. No one can answer the "is it worth my time/money" question besides the one putting in the time and money.
  6. Double check your cam timing and the cam chain tensioner. The exhaust valve should not be touching the piston.
  7. Generally speaking, more airflow needs more fuel. Don't be afraid to experiment you won't hurt anything with the GYTR tuner, it has hard guard rails. You spent all that money at ProCircuit why not just shoot them an email and ask? I would imagine they would help you out a bit.
  8. Need to spread the oil around better, too many droplets and empty white spaces. Should be a nice even color across the filter media and through to the inside.
  9. Always approach your rut from the outside. If you aim from the straight directly into the rut you'll have trouble settling in which makes for a bad middle which makes for a bad exit. Approach the rut a few feet wide and turn the bike into the corner so you're already turning when you hit the rut. You'll settle in easier and carry more speed.
  10. 1. Breathe - self explanatory. 2. Elbows up - keeping your elbows up will always keep you balanced and in the right position. 3. Smooth is fast - being smooth saves energy, reduces mistakes, and results in faster laps. 4. Relax - can't flow if you're rigid.
  11. I agree, triple check the cam timing.
  12. Thanks guys for the responses. The dealer made a hybrid kit for me with a 2008 head and the 2011 valve train components so it will all fit correctly at a good deal so that's what I'm doing.
  13. I did some more research and the 2006 and 2010 head assembly have the same part number but of course different model numbers proceeding the part number. With the different port design between the two models having the same part number may not mean much.
  14. Sounds like no fuel pressure. Extra lean from a poorly performing pump or a clogged filter/screen as monk said.
  15. Made about 200 hours on the top end of my 2006 before she popped. Doing a full top to bottom rebuild with a new crank and cylinder and we'll go for another 200 hours before I get a new bike.