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dfcfu342 last won the day on April 16 2008

dfcfu342 had the most liked content!

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About dfcfu342

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  1. You're not going to get your money back out of it that you put in, it just isn't worth enough. If it will be ridden by someone and get some enjoyment out of it then it may be worth the money. How bad is the scoring? Will a hand hone cover them up? 1) It could be starvation or sloppy building left something like a circlip or metal flakes in the cylinder. 2) See above 3) See above again. Bottom line, it will need another top end, maybe a cylinder replating. No one can answer the "is it worth my time/money" question besides the one putting in the time and money.
  2. Double check your cam timing and the cam chain tensioner. The exhaust valve should not be touching the piston.
  3. Generally speaking, more airflow needs more fuel. Don't be afraid to experiment you won't hurt anything with the GYTR tuner, it has hard guard rails. You spent all that money at ProCircuit why not just shoot them an email and ask? I would imagine they would help you out a bit.
  4. Need to spread the oil around better, too many droplets and empty white spaces. Should be a nice even color across the filter media and through to the inside.
  5. Always approach your rut from the outside. If you aim from the straight directly into the rut you'll have trouble settling in which makes for a bad middle which makes for a bad exit. Approach the rut a few feet wide and turn the bike into the corner so you're already turning when you hit the rut. You'll settle in easier and carry more speed.
  6. 1. Breathe - self explanatory. 2. Elbows up - keeping your elbows up will always keep you balanced and in the right position. 3. Smooth is fast - being smooth saves energy, reduces mistakes, and results in faster laps. 4. Relax - can't flow if you're rigid.
  7. I agree, triple check the cam timing.
  8. Thanks guys for the responses. The dealer made a hybrid kit for me with a 2008 head and the 2011 valve train components so it will all fit correctly at a good deal so that's what I'm doing.
  9. I did some more research and the 2006 and 2010 head assembly have the same part number but of course different model numbers proceeding the part number. With the different port design between the two models having the same part number may not mean much.
  10. Sounds like no fuel pressure. Extra lean from a poorly performing pump or a clogged filter/screen as monk said.
  11. Made about 200 hours on the top end of my 2006 before she popped. Doing a full top to bottom rebuild with a new crank and cylinder and we'll go for another 200 hours before I get a new bike.
  12. So lost the top end in my 2006 last weekend at the track and looking to do a full rebuild. I found a dealer online that is offering the head, valves, valve train components, piston kit, gaskets, and cylinder for $1300 which is a great deal but it's listed as for the 2010/2011. My question is will it fit with my 2006? I would certainly like the newer lightened valve train components and the newer exhaust port and it's a good price for a full kit of new OEM parts. My main concerns are the potential for a different head-stay mounting point for the perimeter frame and potential piston issues if Yamaha changed the rod sometime between 2006 and 2010. Thanks for your input, hopefully somebody has an in-depth knowledge of the 5-valve motor they can share.
  13. Thanks BDubb I appreciate the feedback. I have an additional question regarding the RMZs as well. They have the used 2014 for $4999 with 20 hours on it and a full Yosh system or a new 2016 for $6399 with the current Suzuki rebates. Is the 2016 worth the $1400 more? I know buying a used bike, even low hours, is always a risk but it's a significant savings and I'm still unsure about moving to the air fork after 10 years on KYB SSS forks. Thanks again, Dfcfu342
  14. Hi guys! I'm going to be looking at a used 2014 RMZ 450 next weekend and wanted to know if there was anything in particular to look for on these bikes. I've always been a Yamaha guy so I'm not sure if there are any weak areas or anything on the Suzukis that I should look for as an indicator of issues in the future. Additionally, what would you recommend as first mods? I'm a taller guy, around 6'1" and 170 lbs and do plan on getting the suspension revalved. Thanks in advance, Dfcfu342
  15. If the bike is underneath you then stay with it and use the suspension to absorb at least some impact. If you're under the bike at all or off balance where the bike will slam you onto the ground, ditch it and try to tuck and roll. Never land without your legs under you if you can manage. A tuck and roll versus a flat landing can be the difference between a nasty bruise and permanent injury. Those are my opinions.