ShortButHusky

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About ShortButHusky

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    Michigan
  1. Thanks to all for the opinions, these images were very helpful. I was worried that I would have to rivet the thing back together, was hopeful but not sure that it screws together. I don't know what the fit and finish of the part is like, but I do know that Fast By Ferracci are jerks to work with on ebay. I submitted a question a week ago asking if it was attached with bolts or rivets, and if they were included. Got no response. Entered an offer of $100 and said that my low offer was based on the fact that there was no response to my questions. Still got no response. I suppose they may have thought that the $100 offer was low enough to be rude, but at least it was earnest money. So now I have been warned by several sources that the fit is not always great, FBF won't answer any questions, and they list all sales are final. Hope they are not expecting positive feedback!
  2. Any experience out there? My BS Radar is going off at full alert. The baskets are on on the FBF ebay site now for $225, link: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=390163333316&fromMakeTrack=true I called the service manager at Fast by Ferracci motorcycles and asked if he would be willing to convert my existing clutch if I had it and the new basket from his ebay counterpart shipped to him. His response was along the lines of "I would love to take your money, but any clutch job needs to be test driven to make sure any adjustments are not required." If he is too nervous to touch this clutch basket from his own company with a full engine machine shop at his disposal "without having the bike available for a test ride", then I am thinking there must be some serious fit/assembly issues with this upgrade. And I also notice there are not any threads out there talking about how splendid this part is. Anybody parting out an 06-08 clutch basket???
  3. Me confused. You have never heard of changing sprockets? I mean I agree, a wider ratio transmission would be great, but gearing for 100MPH+ top speed for the street by swapping the the chain and front sprocket when you put on the sumo wheels is no big deal. If I wanted a bike that spends a lot of time on the highway, I would get the 610 just so I wouldn't have to worry about excessive maintenance, but that doesn't have much to do with the gearing... By the way, I am a little guy (5'7'' maybe) and I ride the 510.
  4. My poor brother has a DRZ pig bike with a very nice Corbin seat. Narrow and short in the front, wide and tall as stock in the back. For anyone that spends much time at all on the street, it sooooo much nicer than stock!!! That would be my vote. Might even buy one...
  5. From what I can tell, very few people actually do use the recommended AGIP 4T 10W60 Racing oil. However, I have found that I can buy it directly from AGIP USA for about $140 per case of 12 liters including shipping. This is cheaper than I can buy most high-end fully synthetic oils at my local dealers. So why wouldn't I use it? By the way, I was just looking at some KTM racing oil and it is $23 per liter in comparison
  6. I am a little shocked by how little faith people are putting in beginners on this thread. Although, I concede buying a used POS that wouldn't depreciate much when it is inevitably crashed in the dirt multiple times might not be a horrible idea, if one could find some kind of killer deal. Buying something new like a DRZ or a 250, for fear of the power of a TE510 would be insanely dumb. Why buy something that none of us would be satisfied with, just to hope it eases the learning curve a little? Not to mention, a DRZ is far more difficult to ride on the dirt or as a SM on the street than a TE510. My advice. Buy the TE510. Respect the power. Budget for a couple hundred dollars worth of replacement plastic after the worst of the learning curve is over. Just for the record in regard to the original theme of this thread. As much as I would love to own an Aprilla, there is no way I am going to touch one until they get its reliability issues ironed out. Below 10,000 RPM, the torque curve of the TE510 falls right between the SXV 450 and 550. All three torque curves are nearly completely flat. It is true that the Apprilla might have a little less inertia than the big single Husky. However, it is certainly not going to have a significantly more violent hit than the Husqvarnas. More like the difference in "feel" of power delivery between the faster revving TE450 as compared to the TE510.
  7. That is just crazy talk. Gear the TE for anything remotely close to the same performance as a DRZ, and it will get 20% better fuel economy...
  8. Dang it, I am 96% certain that it has been covered somewhere how to swtich between SM and TE wheel size in the stock computer. Can't find it. Anyone figure it out?
  9. Has anyone been able to buy just the bracket? I called Hall's Husqvarna, and they said that they had sold several of the EBC rotor kits that include the bracket, however they did not have a part number for the bracket alone. They are checking on availability for me, however, they won't be able to get back to me until Tuesday or so...
  10. I have a 2006 TE510 with two seasons of mostly off-road riding. Required maintenance has been what you would expect with any bike. Change the oil, clean the air filter, lube the chain, etc.. I do check the valve lash at every oil change, but it never moves. Keep in mind this is the "maintenance-intensive race bike" TE510 that I am talking about. Something else to keep in mind. The power disadvantage of the stock DRZ is most painfull on the street, especially in the upper gears. The only real advantage of the DRZ on the street is that you can buy a nice Corbin after-market seat for it. That might come into play if you are riding for more than a few hours. IF you do plan on doing ANY trail riding at all; the DRZ and TE510 are UTTERLY INCOMPARABLE in the dirt. Even though the Husqvarna suspension is much better, the real difference is in the handling. The Husqvarna turns much-much quicker while still delivering much better high speed stability. Ride both bikes side by side in the sand, and you might be ready to part with the extra $3000 in an instant!!! There is no amount of money that you can spend on suspension upgrades, steering stabilizers, and such that will make up the difference. Speaking of which, when you guys question the resale value of Husqvarnas; what is your expected return on investment for all of the DRZ hop-up parts that you buy!
  11. I love my blue and yellow 06 TE 510. No way I could part with it for $2500. If that is all it is worth next spring, I will just buy a set of Motard wheels for it and give it a second life in my garage. Rode my brother's DRZ 400 on the Dragon (mountain switchbacks) with SM wheels. The TE 510 would be awesome with a similar setup. White, black, and red was OK for a fling, but come on Husqvarna bring back a blue and yellow option!!!
  12. I found this link on the Dynajet websight indicating that its Powercommander tuner is coming soon for MY2008 TE-250 http://www.powercommander.com/powercommander_iii_usb/powercommander_all_downloads.aspx?mk=18&mdl=197&yr=2008 And here is another link showing the generic capabilities of the Powercommander system: http://www.powercommander.com/powercommander_iii_usb/powercommander_information.aspx Thank goodness for all of those riders that buy a 250 for whatever reason, and then become obsessed with spending hundreds and hundreds of dollars to make it go faster. This is really great news for all of us TE riders that the aftermarket is taking notice of our small niche market and stepping up with a product. If they provide a product that supports aftermarket pipes with dyno based maps, allows us to infinately customize those fuel maps, and retains the flexibablity of a closed loop O2 sensor; then there will be absolutely no situation where a carburetor could provid better performance.
  13. How about we guess more like $200 than $1000???
  14. I don't want to come off as negative, however as an engineer with about 15 years of powertrain experience, I must say you are only about half right - in my opinion. A properly designed fuel injection system will always provide slightly more horsepower and much, much better throttle response than a carburetor. This is because the carb can not be sized as large without compromising ridability (must rely on a venturi to pull in the fuel), fuel injection can offer a better prepared mixture (finer atomization), and it does not rely on an accelerator pump to get the right mixture when the throttle is blipped. In theory a good closed loop system can provide even better throttle response and compensate easily for changes in altitude, ambient pressure, humidity, etc.. Giving the best power under all conditions with no jetting. However, if what has been said in this thread is true, I can take a very reasonable guess as to what's up. Husqvarna must run the emissions calibration that it certifies with, unless they deviate it from it to protect the engine or the rider. The engine relies on the lambda sensor to run the correct air/fuel ratio. If this feedback is missing the engine could be damaged from knock induced by a potentially over-lean mixture. Therefore, they are allowed to protect the engine by going to a somewhat richer mixture - that by the way happens to produce more power. There is also a good reason that they are not selling a tool to reprogram and remap the EFI system. The regulations for motorcycles are not as sophisticated as they are for cars, however there is a clear precedent that the fuel maps must be encripted from the automotive side. If Husqvarna provided a tool to adjust these maps, they would become an "adjustable parameter" and Husqvarna would have to certify that they can meet emissions with any adjustment that the customer is capable of making. Note that a carb overcomes this argument in that manual adjustments are reasonably necesary to make the bike operate under varying conditions. Making a very sophisticated carb to overcome this would place an undue burden on the manufacturer. Therefor, expect the aftermarket to provide a power programming tool, it is not going to come from Husqvarna.
  15. Yeah, unless they improved from '06, the delay can be a little annoying on the switchbacks. If you look down to see how fast you are entering a corner, you will almost be through it before it shows how fast you started the turn at. I am guessing they do it to keep the numbers from 'flickering' when you are riding a nearly constant speed.