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      JUST IN!   04/24/2018

      HOW TO: 4-STROKE PISTON REPLACEMENT DONE RIGHT!

hemi

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About hemi

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  1. I suggest you use M8x35, buy a new self-locking nuts and make sure that you have full threads through the lock nut. I think there are sets of nut and bolt somewhere on TT.
  2. I hope this wasn't mentioned earlier in the thread, but for a great ride report go to shortwayround.co.uk. It starts on a three letter bike from Germany, continues on a DR 650 and ends up on our beloved DRZ-400. His writing improves, and he takes great pictures. Also has a couple of threads worth checking out on advrider.com MVH Helge
  3. I have polished stainless Buchanan spokes and nipples on my 17" rims, looks like a million dollars and costs almost that:-( I could post a picture, but then I would have to clean the bike... If you go for them, remember to lube the threads well, stainless steel is very prone to galling.
  4. Look's to me like a Xenon H4 conversion. I had one on my bike, but the ballast stopped working and I put back the original H4. Xenon is nice and bright, but only if it puts the light where you need it and the kit I used did not! You may have a failed ballast, bulb or simply a fuse (Xenon kits usually includes a fuse). I think you can find replacement parts for everything on finn.no.
  5. My experience in cold weather (I mean really cold, well below freezing) is that you the bike needs a really long time to warm up. I don't have an exact time, but I find that the best thing to do is start it up using the choke and push the choke in after you start driving. It takes several kilometres (or miles) before the bike will idle without choke.
  6. Wheeling Cycle Supply has flat aluminium washers for this use, I haven't used them myself. Ordinary flat steel washers I think would be worse than no washer at all, cause the washer needs to deform or flex a little to form a seal. Annealed (I think the word is) copper washers would be good if you can get them. All in all, buying a few OEM washers for a couple of $s each and reuse them a couple of times would last a long time and I think this is your best option.
  7. Also, add washers in a threaded connection and they will act as springs and you will risk the bolt coming loose. Not something you want to happen to your oil drain bolt...
  8. I once (on a non-DRZ bike) managed to crack the oil tray with a crush washer that had been over-tightened a few times and was squeezed like a wedge. Now I bought a handful of crush washers (cheap) and a torque wrench (not so cheap but reusable:-) ). I don't replace the washer every oil change. If the washer is hard to get off pry them loose with a screwdriver and use cutting pliers to remove them (they are soft).
  9. If your battery is good, then there are a few threads here about speedo problems. There is a voltage regulator inside of the speedometer that can vibrate and break loose from its contacts. I've had this problems myself.
  10. Wheeling cycle supplies has a lot of DRC, Zeta and Z-Carbon parts for the DR-Z. He ships to Norway, bet he ships to the UK as well!
  11. I've used E-07 once, but the thread pattern is much "denser" which means it won't be as good in deep snow. From what I've heard the rubber compound is very important for snowy conditions and the softer compound the better. E-09 can be had in soft compound.
  12. Unfortunately, Mitas seem to have stopped the production of the XT-644. I´ve bought Mitas MC23 Rock-rider with studs instead, but I don´t like them much.
  13. Check out Happy Trails Dash Panel at www.happy-trail.com.
  14. Don't know if there is a difference between the E and the S, but I use my S in the norwegian winter and 11F is no problem for my S. I've used my bike down to -15 - -20C without any problems. Need to keep battery fully charged, make sure the charging system is perfect. One thing that can be a problem is carb iceing. A few drops of isopropanol or de-icer in the fuel when you fill her up (not too much though).
  15. If I´m not mistaken, the service manual specifies a drop of sealant on the "half moons"