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About ewbish

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  1. ewbish

    What engine oil would you run if.....

    I do.........for a while I ran Shell Rottella, but discovered I get about 10 more miles on a tank with the Maxima.......I went back to the Maxima 10w40 Full Synthetic and the 85wt Tranny fluid. I change the oil every couple of thousand miles.....whether it needs it or not.
  2. ewbish

    Radiator hoses

    I'd have a couple of feet of generic hose in the same diameter zip tied to the frame under the seat. Even if you start with new ones............you could lose one at any time and for a 700 mile trip........especially if you're in bfe, you should be able to repair it. Also, go over the hoses before hand so you know how to bypass a rad in the field........it'll get you back to civilization if you need to do it in a pinch. FYI, the only time in my history of riding water coolers, and my kids on water coolers that I've seen a hose go was.........it either got caught on something and cut, or after a wreck. Never just had one let go.
  3. ewbish

    Oil overflow?

    Your engine side vent doesn't have a cap and clamp on it stock for sure......it will vent freely. In a seperate sump engine, the tranny side doesn't really create pressure....except in extreme circumstances (filled with water). The engine does, and will happily blow oil out if overfilled. Good point about the airfilter.........that's a pretty common source of "oil leaks" hahahaha. Definitely a possibility.
  4. ewbish

    Oil overflow?

    That's the vent for the engine side, not the tranny side. No biggie........if the engine side is slightly over full, and/or you do some extended high speed WFO stuff........it'll blow out a bit of oil. On mine, the way it was originally routed, it lined up perfectly with the rear brake rotor........major bummer. I rerouted it, now it harmlessly oils the chain and counter shaft sprocket if it blows any oil.
  5. ewbish

    Top Speed for CRF450X

    For that, I'd gear it up, bit more than a couple off the rear though. I've commuted literally thousands of miles on mine with the stock gearing, and 14:47...........14:47 is pretty good, but it's a tad tall for really tight single track. Not sure how much of a diff going to a 48 will make.......... You're going to be off one way or the other, IMHO, but it'll get you where you want to be for a 70 mph cruising rpm.
  6. ewbish

    Top Speed for CRF450X

    I wouldn't sweat the difference, if you're not going to be doing to much hwy riding and mostly riding tight stuff. Stock will be just fine. If you're doing a lot of open desert, or fast fire road, and some hwy stuff........then you'll want to gear up a bit more than just dropping 2 off the rear.
  7. ewbish

    Top Speed for CRF450X

    Flat out against the stop, stock gearing........with a 120 rear 81 mph, with a 110 rear, 82 mph--GPS. Absolutely no physical way for the stock gearing as specified in the owners manual, to get that bike to 95 on a stock engine. Stock gearing is stock gearing......if the dealer changed it.........then it's not stock gearing. 14:47, flat out on pavement, 96--GPS.
  8. ewbish

    Clutch kit, stock or aftermarket?

    I would replace all of the components with OEM..........especially the plates. The only component I would replace w/ after market is the basket. Upon dissasembly, if your OEM basket and hub have any notches in them..........replace them. You could file it down, but they will wear 2x as fast anyway.......there is no point in replacing the clutch if your basket is notched without also replacing the basket. The OEM hub is ok, once you have a good quality aftermarket basket. Any of the well known makers have a high quality billet basket that is far superior to the OEM basket.
  9. ewbish

    Whats wrong?

    Yeah, definitely try adjusting for sure. The OEM clutch perch is kind of.....meh, mine came from the dealer with the on-the-fly adjuster dealio popped out of the threads underneath the dust cover.
  10. ewbish

    Whats wrong?

    Good point! Never even thought of that......may very well be the case after rereading his post. It would certainly not be the first X that ate a set of fibers;-)
  11. ewbish

    Whats wrong?

    If it's pretty wet with oil..........it'll suck up into the carb and make the bike run bad.......but only for a bit, and it's got to be pretty soaked. Best to let it sit in the sun until it's not dripping at all. My daughter is famous for doing this on her bike. Usualy goes away after 10 minutes of riding or so.
  12. ewbish

    Whats wrong?

    I have no doubt Johnny, that if I rode my bike like you........it wouldn't lasted as near as long;-) Good point.......maybe it's all that built up sludge in there keeping everything sealed and nice and tight;-)
  13. ewbish

    Whats wrong?

    Anybody else, feel free to jump in.....I've got a dozen bikes, and haven't pulled my X carb off in a while, and I'm at work so pulling this entirely from memory........so if I mix something up that doesn't pertain to the X, correct me please. I would not suggest changing your jets when you take it apart to clean.......as you want to get your bike back to where it was before making jetting changes. However, that's up to you. It may make troubleshooting harder down the road, but if you want to save time now at the risk of later difficulty......we won't stop you. Also, just for shits and giggles, when you have the tank disconnected, check the fuel flow threw the petcock, make sure it isn't restricted. It's not hard.....just remember how it goes back together;-) If you have a digital camera, take lots of picks of the carb in case you can't remember where all the lines hook back up. Take a pic after you pull the float bowl cover off. Most important thing is cleanliness......just be careful and don't force anything either. Clean your bike well before you start.....I mean well.......you don't want any dirt falling into the intake while you're working. While you have it off, install a zip tie racing fuel screw too, that way you can adjust it later on. To me,it's easiest if I tilt the subframe up with the tank and seat off. Leave the throttle assembly all connected, just remove the slide and let it hange from the bike. That needle hanging down is the first thing you want to note, write down the color and any numbers on it. As soon as the carb is off......check the engine intake for dirt, clean it if you need to, and shove a clean towel in there to keep shit from falling in. Murphy says, if you drop a bolt, it will bounce off something at the perfect angle to shoot right into the intake. Trust me on this. When the carb is off, hold it straigh upside down, and pull the float bowl cover off. With the cover off you'll see the floats and the float valve. You'll also see two brass jets. The big one in the middle is the main.......it should have a number on it, like 162, 165, 170. Remove it with a 6mm wrench, make sure the seat is clean (the jet and seat may come out together, seperate them before cleaning, and reinstall the seat first), and that the jet is clean. There should be nothing inside it, and you should clearly see light through it. The smaller jet is the pilot jet. Remove it with a flat tip screw driver. Make sure there is nothing inside it.......you should be able to see light through it and each of the small holes on the sides should be clean and open. Check the seat. Now, remove the retainer for the floats. Carefully lift them off the valve. Check the valve for abrasions, dings, and debri. Make sure the seat is clean and undamaged. You probably don't need to take it apart further......spray out all of the opening and seats with carb cleaner. Spray the throttle slide bore area, make sure there is no debri that may be causing the slide to stick or interfering with the needle. Any opening or hole in the carb, spray it with the carb cleaner, get every pasage. Reinstall everything exactly the way it was, do not overtighten the brass jets and make sure you assemble the floats and float valve exactly the way they were. Tighten them firmly and no more, do not crank on them. Put the float bowl back on. Prior to reinstalling the slide, clean it thouroughly, make sure there is no debri in it anywhere. Button that all up, reinstall the carb on the intake (line up the guides), make sure all the lines are routed correctly. Lower the subframe and reinstall the airbox. Make sure everything has a good seal and the clamps are tightened. I've probably forgotten something, but somebody will add it in I'm sure.
  14. ewbish

    Whats wrong?

    Well, it doesn't sound like gas can crap in that case.......since you went through a few tanks........but a dirty carb could still be your culprit....really need more info. Far as your airfilter goes.......a "bit" is hard to quantify. One way to do it, if you use the bottled stuff, put your airfilter in a ziplock baggie, put a few ounces of oil in it, seal it, and work it around. Your filter should be thouroughly saturated inside and out. If you use the spray stuff.......spray the shit out of it, then massage it a bit to make sure it's worked in. In either case, if it's "dripping", let it sit a while before installing it (otherwise it'll run out your airbox and make a big mess). Always use a bead of grease on the lip of the filter......this allows it to seal. If your filter was under oiled, and had no grease on it.......it is quite likely that some debri has entered the carburetor (and the engine). If this is the case, when you pull your carb, look and see if there is a fine layer of dust in it. You may also feel "grit" behind the airfilter if you pull it out and reach far up inside the airbox. I've cleaned plenty of filters with gasoline......hasn't hurt one yet. I've heard there are some brands out there that the glue would dissolve.....but I haven't come across one. Far as the carb goes......pretty much everything you need to know to clean it is in the service manual....it's pretty straight forward. Far as your symptoms go.......is there anything else other than a loss of top end? Cutting in and out? Slower acceleration? Hesitation? Hard starting? Popping on decel? Popping on acceleration?
  15. ewbish

    Whats wrong?

    I was being flippant Johnny;-) Besides, parts for an engine build are a lot less than 1300.00. I'd do the work myself. If I had too........... I doubt there's many X's out there with as many miles as mine has on the original top end and valves.........so consequently, you could say that over the last 3 years, by not changing it every 4 or 5 hours (say 200 miles), then at 16.00 a change that would have been (in my case) 1200.00 in oil, including a filter every other change, another 200.00, so 1400.00..........about 3 engine builds in parts only. So there.....put that in your math pipe and smoke it;-) Did I mention I only change the tranny every 6 months? Or about 6000 miles? For a good year and a half, I ran shell rotella in both sides, at 20.00 for 2.5 gallons. Enough to last me the entire year;-) Really, it's a matter of riding conditions........oil doesn't break down, it gets dirty and contaminated from combustion byproducts. Since NONE of us come even remotley close to leaving our oil in long enough for combustion contamination to occur, it's mostly external contamination that we need to worry about. If you're crossing water, riding in silt, change it more often (what I do). It's all subjective, the only way to know if your oil is actually dirty/contaminated simply from use (as opposed to lookin' like toothpaste because you laid 'er down in a creek) is to send it to a lab for analysis. For most though.........their oil lasts far longer than they think. Personally, I do not believe that changing the oil every 5 hours, or every 50 hours on an X will make one iota of difference in it's longevity (mine has well over 15,000 miles on it now), as long as you change it when appropriate (after a 2 or 3 day trip in Baja for example, would be appropriate). You're far more likely to require a rebuild because you holed the case and it all leaked out, your airfilter failed, you dropped it in a pond and the bottom end is filled with silt, you cut the rev limiter and rode it WFO for 3 hours, you have it jetted way to lean or way to rich, you run really shitty gas through it all the time, or the most likely reason..........you forgot to check it and took off on a 100 mile ride with the level to low. Hell, I'm putting 350 miles a WEEK on my X right now....... Hell, that's one of the major benefits of a seperate sump.........you keep the clutch contamination out of the engine. I know my valves have got to go soon........there is really no rhyme or reason for them lasting as long as they have..........I can't wait to see what my top end looks like after all these miles. Even if my engine grenaded at this point I wouldn't be overly upset..........it's gotten far more mileage than I ever expected it too and at this point I'm just going to ride it until it dies.......then rebuild everything at once and go to SS valves.