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Everything posted by ewbish

  1. I do.........for a while I ran Shell Rottella, but discovered I get about 10 more miles on a tank with the Maxima.......I went back to the Maxima 10w40 Full Synthetic and the 85wt Tranny fluid. I change the oil every couple of thousand miles.....whether it needs it or not.
  2. I'd have a couple of feet of generic hose in the same diameter zip tied to the frame under the seat. Even if you start with new ones............you could lose one at any time and for a 700 mile trip........especially if you're in bfe, you should be able to repair it. Also, go over the hoses before hand so you know how to bypass a rad in the field........it'll get you back to civilization if you need to do it in a pinch. FYI, the only time in my history of riding water coolers, and my kids on water coolers that I've seen a hose go was.........it either got caught on something and cut, or after a wreck. Never just had one let go.
  3. Your engine side vent doesn't have a cap and clamp on it stock for sure......it will vent freely. In a seperate sump engine, the tranny side doesn't really create pressure....except in extreme circumstances (filled with water). The engine does, and will happily blow oil out if overfilled. Good point about the airfilter.........that's a pretty common source of "oil leaks" hahahaha. Definitely a possibility.
  4. That's the vent for the engine side, not the tranny side. No biggie........if the engine side is slightly over full, and/or you do some extended high speed WFO stuff........it'll blow out a bit of oil. On mine, the way it was originally routed, it lined up perfectly with the rear brake rotor........major bummer. I rerouted it, now it harmlessly oils the chain and counter shaft sprocket if it blows any oil.
  5. For that, I'd gear it up, bit more than a couple off the rear though. I've commuted literally thousands of miles on mine with the stock gearing, and 14:47...........14:47 is pretty good, but it's a tad tall for really tight single track. Not sure how much of a diff going to a 48 will make.......... You're going to be off one way or the other, IMHO, but it'll get you where you want to be for a 70 mph cruising rpm.
  6. I wouldn't sweat the difference, if you're not going to be doing to much hwy riding and mostly riding tight stuff. Stock will be just fine. If you're doing a lot of open desert, or fast fire road, and some hwy stuff........then you'll want to gear up a bit more than just dropping 2 off the rear.
  7. Flat out against the stop, stock gearing........with a 120 rear 81 mph, with a 110 rear, 82 mph--GPS. Absolutely no physical way for the stock gearing as specified in the owners manual, to get that bike to 95 on a stock engine. Stock gearing is stock gearing......if the dealer changed it.........then it's not stock gearing. 14:47, flat out on pavement, 96--GPS.
  8. I would replace all of the components with OEM..........especially the plates. The only component I would replace w/ after market is the basket. Upon dissasembly, if your OEM basket and hub have any notches in them..........replace them. You could file it down, but they will wear 2x as fast anyway.......there is no point in replacing the clutch if your basket is notched without also replacing the basket. The OEM hub is ok, once you have a good quality aftermarket basket. Any of the well known makers have a high quality billet basket that is far superior to the OEM basket.
  9. Yeah, definitely try adjusting for sure. The OEM clutch perch is kind of.....meh, mine came from the dealer with the on-the-fly adjuster dealio popped out of the threads underneath the dust cover.
  10. Good point! Never even thought of that......may very well be the case after rereading his post. It would certainly not be the first X that ate a set of fibers;-)
  11. If it's pretty wet with oil..........it'll suck up into the carb and make the bike run bad.......but only for a bit, and it's got to be pretty soaked. Best to let it sit in the sun until it's not dripping at all. My daughter is famous for doing this on her bike. Usualy goes away after 10 minutes of riding or so.
  12. I have no doubt Johnny, that if I rode my bike like you........it wouldn't lasted as near as long;-) Good point.......maybe it's all that built up sludge in there keeping everything sealed and nice and tight;-)
  13. Anybody else, feel free to jump in.....I've got a dozen bikes, and haven't pulled my X carb off in a while, and I'm at work so pulling this entirely from memory........so if I mix something up that doesn't pertain to the X, correct me please. I would not suggest changing your jets when you take it apart to clean.......as you want to get your bike back to where it was before making jetting changes. However, that's up to you. It may make troubleshooting harder down the road, but if you want to save time now at the risk of later difficulty......we won't stop you. Also, just for shits and giggles, when you have the tank disconnected, check the fuel flow threw the petcock, make sure it isn't restricted. It's not hard.....just remember how it goes back together;-) If you have a digital camera, take lots of picks of the carb in case you can't remember where all the lines hook back up. Take a pic after you pull the float bowl cover off. Most important thing is cleanliness......just be careful and don't force anything either. Clean your bike well before you start.....I mean well.......you don't want any dirt falling into the intake while you're working. While you have it off, install a zip tie racing fuel screw too, that way you can adjust it later on. To me,it's easiest if I tilt the subframe up with the tank and seat off. Leave the throttle assembly all connected, just remove the slide and let it hange from the bike. That needle hanging down is the first thing you want to note, write down the color and any numbers on it. As soon as the carb is off......check the engine intake for dirt, clean it if you need to, and shove a clean towel in there to keep shit from falling in. Murphy says, if you drop a bolt, it will bounce off something at the perfect angle to shoot right into the intake. Trust me on this. When the carb is off, hold it straigh upside down, and pull the float bowl cover off. With the cover off you'll see the floats and the float valve. You'll also see two brass jets. The big one in the middle is the main.......it should have a number on it, like 162, 165, 170. Remove it with a 6mm wrench, make sure the seat is clean (the jet and seat may come out together, seperate them before cleaning, and reinstall the seat first), and that the jet is clean. There should be nothing inside it, and you should clearly see light through it. The smaller jet is the pilot jet. Remove it with a flat tip screw driver. Make sure there is nothing inside it.......you should be able to see light through it and each of the small holes on the sides should be clean and open. Check the seat. Now, remove the retainer for the floats. Carefully lift them off the valve. Check the valve for abrasions, dings, and debri. Make sure the seat is clean and undamaged. You probably don't need to take it apart further......spray out all of the opening and seats with carb cleaner. Spray the throttle slide bore area, make sure there is no debri that may be causing the slide to stick or interfering with the needle. Any opening or hole in the carb, spray it with the carb cleaner, get every pasage. Reinstall everything exactly the way it was, do not overtighten the brass jets and make sure you assemble the floats and float valve exactly the way they were. Tighten them firmly and no more, do not crank on them. Put the float bowl back on. Prior to reinstalling the slide, clean it thouroughly, make sure there is no debri in it anywhere. Button that all up, reinstall the carb on the intake (line up the guides), make sure all the lines are routed correctly. Lower the subframe and reinstall the airbox. Make sure everything has a good seal and the clamps are tightened. I've probably forgotten something, but somebody will add it in I'm sure.
  14. Well, it doesn't sound like gas can crap in that case.......since you went through a few tanks........but a dirty carb could still be your culprit....really need more info. Far as your airfilter goes.......a "bit" is hard to quantify. One way to do it, if you use the bottled stuff, put your airfilter in a ziplock baggie, put a few ounces of oil in it, seal it, and work it around. Your filter should be thouroughly saturated inside and out. If you use the spray stuff.......spray the shit out of it, then massage it a bit to make sure it's worked in. In either case, if it's "dripping", let it sit a while before installing it (otherwise it'll run out your airbox and make a big mess). Always use a bead of grease on the lip of the filter......this allows it to seal. If your filter was under oiled, and had no grease on it.......it is quite likely that some debri has entered the carburetor (and the engine). If this is the case, when you pull your carb, look and see if there is a fine layer of dust in it. You may also feel "grit" behind the airfilter if you pull it out and reach far up inside the airbox. I've cleaned plenty of filters with gasoline......hasn't hurt one yet. I've heard there are some brands out there that the glue would dissolve.....but I haven't come across one. Far as the carb goes......pretty much everything you need to know to clean it is in the service manual....it's pretty straight forward. Far as your symptoms go.......is there anything else other than a loss of top end? Cutting in and out? Slower acceleration? Hesitation? Hard starting? Popping on decel? Popping on acceleration?
  15. I was being flippant Johnny;-) Besides, parts for an engine build are a lot less than 1300.00. I'd do the work myself. If I had too........... I doubt there's many X's out there with as many miles as mine has on the original top end and valves.........so consequently, you could say that over the last 3 years, by not changing it every 4 or 5 hours (say 200 miles), then at 16.00 a change that would have been (in my case) 1200.00 in oil, including a filter every other change, another 200.00, so 1400.00..........about 3 engine builds in parts only. So there.....put that in your math pipe and smoke it;-) Did I mention I only change the tranny every 6 months? Or about 6000 miles? For a good year and a half, I ran shell rotella in both sides, at 20.00 for 2.5 gallons. Enough to last me the entire year;-) Really, it's a matter of riding conditions........oil doesn't break down, it gets dirty and contaminated from combustion byproducts. Since NONE of us come even remotley close to leaving our oil in long enough for combustion contamination to occur, it's mostly external contamination that we need to worry about. If you're crossing water, riding in silt, change it more often (what I do). It's all subjective, the only way to know if your oil is actually dirty/contaminated simply from use (as opposed to lookin' like toothpaste because you laid 'er down in a creek) is to send it to a lab for analysis. For most though.........their oil lasts far longer than they think. Personally, I do not believe that changing the oil every 5 hours, or every 50 hours on an X will make one iota of difference in it's longevity (mine has well over 15,000 miles on it now), as long as you change it when appropriate (after a 2 or 3 day trip in Baja for example, would be appropriate). You're far more likely to require a rebuild because you holed the case and it all leaked out, your airfilter failed, you dropped it in a pond and the bottom end is filled with silt, you cut the rev limiter and rode it WFO for 3 hours, you have it jetted way to lean or way to rich, you run really shitty gas through it all the time, or the most likely reason..........you forgot to check it and took off on a 100 mile ride with the level to low. Hell, I'm putting 350 miles a WEEK on my X right now....... Hell, that's one of the major benefits of a seperate sump.........you keep the clutch contamination out of the engine. I know my valves have got to go soon........there is really no rhyme or reason for them lasting as long as they have..........I can't wait to see what my top end looks like after all these miles. Even if my engine grenaded at this point I wouldn't be overly upset..........it's gotten far more mileage than I ever expected it too and at this point I'm just going to ride it until it dies.......then rebuild everything at once and go to SS valves.
  16. Man........if I did that.......in 6 months I'd of put enough money in oil in the bike to pay for 3 engine rebuilds. I've put 1800 miles on my X since the last week of May. I usually change the oil these days about every other month. 3/4 of this pinned on the hwy. Oil filter 2x a year. Originally, I used the Maxima Full synthetic 10w40 on the engine side......then switched to shell rotella, but I'm now back to the Maxima stuff..........I'll be damned if I don't get about 10 more miles out of a tank of gas with that stuff over the Shell. My X probably has well over 15,000 miles on it now.......still on the original valves. Can't clean the air cleaner to often.
  17. No, the jetting won't make it suddenly run (noticeably) worse after running (apparently) fine previously. However, you need to know what you got in there..........and it's VERY likely that your problem is in fact, caused by dirt or debri in your carburetor anyway. If I had to throw out a guess........I'd bet you're suffering from old gas can syndrom. You got your new (to you) bike, pulled out the ol' 5 gallon lawn mower gas can from your shed, topped it off with 91 from the local station, and inadvertantly dumped a couple ounces of water and crap in your new bike (seen that a few times). That or you bought a spanking new can to go with your new bike.....and your carb now has a nice new piece of red plastic shaving from the gas can factory in it (I've done that) because you forgot to flush it out. If I was you, since you don't really know the history of this bike, and it's a good learning opportunity anyway.......I'd go ahead and pull the carb all the way off, give it a thorough cleaning, write down the main and pilot in it, and what slot the needle clip is in (and if it's OEM or aftermarket), and the needle type if readable. Another thing that could certainly cause your issue............when you did the airfilter did you: 1. Oil it with filter oil 2. Put a nice big fat bead of fresh grease all around the lip 3. Make absolutely certain the filter is correctly seated in the airbox. Still.......my guess is the first time you filled the tank up, crap got into it......seems to be the case evertime I hear about a guy who just bought a bike, and it was fine the first couple of times he rode it..then all the sudden it started running bad.
  18. Well, you can strap gas. In that entire area, you have gas stations in green valley.........but there is no gas on 83 except in Sonoita. From Green Valley to Sonoita is a big push for a stocker. A 4 gal is good, should be enough so that you can transfer to a buddy with a smaller tank if he doesn't make it.
  19. Ahhh, got you. Well, there should be enough to occupy you through that area. If your whole thing is about riding and you don't need to be near the big city......may want to check out staying in Patagonia or Sonoita........you can always recon that and change your mind once you're on the ground. They are nothing but bumps on the map, but they have B&B's. This area is definitely more fun on a dual sported bike......as to get food, gas, or beer....you'll need to hit pavement for at least a few miles. If you are just sticking in the NF's, you don't need anything else, I'd run the plates if you have them, then you don't have to worry about an over exuberant ranger enforcing the registration requirement if you ride on a main forest service road.......just makes it easier, and the main reason why most of the trail riders in this state actually plate their bikes. The link below, at the bottom, has a link to the state land trust permits.....I don't think you have time to get it now. Probably info on there where you can show up and buy it on the spot at some office....I don't know. If you stay in the NF, you don't need it. Here's a link to some info: http://www.azgfd.gov/outdoor_recreation/arizona_ohv_trails.shtml At any book store in Tucson, you can find an Atlas with trail maps of that area. Also, if you have any GPS software, like Garmin's Topo maps, it covers that area. I haven't ridden in the gunsight area for years, but the main gunsight trail basically goes from hwy 83 to I-19 (Santa Rita Road). From what I recall, most folks trailhead at the Rosemont Jct off of 83. If you are plated, you should be able to get on the trail from Green Valley and not even worry about hauling the bikes anywhere. A cool day trip (if you are plated)would be.....leave Green Valley early in the morning, run the gunsight trail, head north down 83 to Sonoita for lunch at the steak house (have a glass of local wine...it's pretty damn good). After lunch, you could head west off of any of the turns from 83, cut in a few miles, and then turn north. Used to be able to cross the Santa Ritas there and get back to Green Valley but now the mountain tops are wilderness areas;-((( If you keep heading N. kind of parralleling 83 you'll eventually hit a Powerline road that will take you back towards Green Valley...it was still open the last time I was around there. You'll get home in the dark for sure. The trails aren't condusive to loops unless you really know your way around in there, and I don't. Lot of trails.....you get to the end where it used to go over the mtn, and it's blocked.......really sucks cause then you have to back track, and find another trail. Definitely for the adventurous, bold, and IMS tank owning folks. If you want higher elevation, more woods type stuff........then patagonia is the place to be.
  20. I've never run turn signals here, never had a problem. If any of that area is on state trust land, you need the trust permit. If you're plated, keep the plates on it, makes it easier to get on and off trails, especially if you do any riding in the National Forests. Most of that area is in the Coronada NF, so def run your plates. Mostly two-track jeep trails in that area. The other side of 83 is the Cienega BLM multi-use area..........a lot of trails, mostly two track in there as well. Around Patagonia there is some riding as well......my club has a 6 hr, 40 mile single track trail from hell up in there somewhere.....I've been once but could never find it again.....when I say single track, I mean seriously......it's one track as wide as a knobby. Lots of other trails in there as well, especially two-track. I actually live pretty close to there........but don't ride much there. Can't imagine anyone coming down here for the riding, no where near as good as the open riding areas in Cali. Come prepared for rocks. And sand. But mostly rocks. It's the monsoon season right now as well.........everything that can hold water is.......all the wash's will be water crossings, and there will be mud. On long day trips, be prepared for sudden down pours......serious sudden down pours. Usually mid to late after noon. There is at least a 20% chance of that every day from now until Sep. A hard storm is likely at anytime......makes the riding freakin' awesome, nothing like the AZ desert after a rain. Watch out for mine shafts, there's a few. Most of them are marked and fenced on the well used trails......but there are a lot of overgrown roads to nowhere in and around those mountains that end.........in a mine shaft. A lot of the two-track is really rough.....seriously. Not sure if you guys are just going off a map, or going with a local.......but there are some nasty places (fun). On more thing....Archery deer opens in AZ in August........so you'll want to keep that in mind. Make a point to try and stay out of tanks (water holes) during hunting season.
  21. Assuming you have no spark, you never said whether or not you check at the plug? If you're talking about the wire harness that comes out of the rear of the left side engine cover..........I hate to be the bearer of bad news but..........that does not have enough slack to wrap in your counter shaft.......unless it was pulled on rather hard. You've either got wires pulled lose (ignition, coil yada yada) outside the engine cover........or inside where it goes to the stator and such. You're going to have to trace all of this to find where the break is, or where a connector came off.
  22. If you're airbox is really opened up (sides & top) and thle pipe mods (baffle gone, or just trimmed, or aftermarket slip on?) that 165 may be a bit lean below about 3000 feet........which would account for your problems. That setup should be good above 4000 and not cause overheating IMHO. I don't remember which one the middle groove on the JD is........though I think you probably want it on the 4th down. My setup is somewhat close to yours.........4500 feet, WB pipe w/ USFS SA and 94DB restrictor, snorkle removed from airbox and backfire screen removed, no other mods to airbox. JD red needle in 4th down, and 165 Main. Stock pilot. I'm a hair rich here, spot on close to sea level.
  23. Got spark? If not, start with the simple shit..........clutch switch and kill switch. Go on from there. If you've got spark.......then you've got a fuel issue.......plugged vent line, plugged petcock, carb, etc. Start by checking for spark and go from there. And when you check for spark......check on the plug. Does no good to know you have spark, if the plug is bad.
  24. Well, if you are just hearing your rads bubble.......they are working as designed. When they get hot, they should overflow into the recovery reservoir.......that is the purpose of the closed system design. When the bike is cold, the reservoir should be no higher than the "full cold" line, even a bit lower is fine (better IMHO). Do not overfill the reservoir, as then you will boil over. If you don't have coolant and steam blowing out of your reservoir, then you don't have a problem.............and then it's most likely that the reservoir was over filled to begin with and there wasn't enough room for the expansion of the warming coolant as you rode.
  25. First, let me get one point out of the way. You've learned a lesson the hard way......when jetting or doing performance mods, there are two rules that should ALWAYS be followed: 1. You ALWAYS start from a known point. This means, you start your bike, let it warm up, and take it for a ride (if nothing else, a couple of u-turns in your driveway. 2. Do ONE mod at a time, start, run, verify, adjust.......then move on. Now, down to troubleshooting. If your bike ran before the jet change.......and not after.......then we must assume that's the problem. We have an unknown in your case, because the bike sat for a while before you did the work, but we'll still assume it's the jetting. At your elevation, with a semi opened airbox, and a 165 main and stock pilot..........the bike should fire right up and run somewhat lean. First thing........where did the rivets go when you drilled them out? Did you leave the aircleaner on while you did it? If the air cleaner was off, ARE YOU 100% SURE YOU RECOVERED ALL OF THE RIVET PIECES????? Trust me.....you won't be the first guy who suffered the fate of the missing rivet. If you drilled the rivets with the aircleaner off, and you can't be 100% where they went.......then you should stop now, and just go ahead and pull the carb completely off, check the entire intake path from box to manifold and make sure there isn't a rivet in there somewhere. If you don't find one, and visual inspection doesn't show any scoring or metal trace (look up into the manifold as far as you can with a flashlight).....then use this opportunity to give the carb a good going over, and verify the jet installation. Since we can't be sure about the condition immediately prior to the work, pull your plug and check for spark. If you've got spark on the plug, move on: 1. Is your battery charged? Are you using the magic button? If not, after sitting for a while and kicking it......you may not have a problem at all.....you're just having an issue kicking it. Make sure you have gas, add fresh if you need to. If you can't see the level on the tank, put it on reserve or add. Turn the choke on. Give the throttle a couple of pumps, then release it, and do NOT touch it. Crank it (or give it a couple of kicks). Anything? If it doesn't pop at all after a couple of attempts, and you've confirmed spark.........we have to assume that something "didn't go so well" with the jet install. 2. Follow the reverse of the JD directions....verifying that everything is installed correctly. Including the needle and main jets....make sure there is nothing extra in the bottom of the float bowl. While you're in there, check and clean the pilot. Make sure the main isn't completely clogged with something that got in it during the installation. If it still doesn't start after all this.......we'll move on to the next steps.