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About nrg

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  1. Yes, part 14 on the crankshaft piston diagram is correct! It can be accessed by removing the primary side cover. I replaced the counter weight, gear and screws just to be safe. The counter weight had an ovalized hole and the screw threads were gone. The gear was in good shape visually, but I figured with it touching the cases you never know. Better safe than sorry. I got lucky, I imagine if I rode it one time that screw would have come out and we definitely would have had some serious motor damage.
  2. Only found it by luck. It took a lot of cranking by hand and searching for parts that could rub, etc. Just happened to come across it. Well this motor/bike definitely has some hours on it, but the top end gets rebuilt about every 20 hrs. It just had some new gears put in the tranny about two months ago so I'm surprised it didn't get caught then. Guess it just got missed.
  3. Absolutely agree, but this isn't exactly the kind of bolt that gets extracted regularly. In fact There's no reason to even remove the counter weight from the gear at all so it was probably never touched outside of the factory.
  4. Figured I'd give everybody an update. So as I feared it ended up having nothing to do with anything previously discussed. Wasn't the cam chain, tensioner, piston, valves, kickstarter, rod, etc. It was a screw backed out of a counter weight on a primary side gear. It was hitting the case, lucky for me it never came out completely and caused a catastrophic failure.
  5. I follow your thought process. I don't think that's it as the chain sliding sound at the end of the video clip went away after replacing the cam chain and tensioner. Now I'm left with a fainter version of the ticking sound.
  6. Frustrated as all hell at this point. I replaced the cam chain and replaced the auto chain tensioner with a tokyo mods manual tensioner. The chain sliding sound when I blip the throttle went away and the ticking got lighter, but it's still there. Could this be a bearing? I don't know where to go from here to resolve it.
  7. There's a link to pic of piston and valves a couple posts back. I don't see any damage, but I'm no expert so I'm just looking for confirmation what I see is correct.
  8. cam chain was definitely stiff when I got the old one out. Can anybody confirm that I'm good to go with the piston/valves not hitting each other? I don't see any carbon knocked off or anything that shows they touched in any way.
  9. I picked up a new cam chain and will buy a manual tensioner tomorrow. I'm hoping this solves it as the valves and piston seem to be ok.
  10. After pulling the head off I don't see any indication of valves hitting the piston. Before I pulled the head valve clearances were within spec. So I'm back to the cam chain and tensioner as the culprit. The auto tensioner seems to be working as I cannot push it in, but I will replace it anyway. I'll do the cam chain too while I'm there. Does everything else with valves plug and piston look alright? Oh and all the teeth on both cams look like they're in good shape. Pic of piston https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/21448276/File%20Jul%2025%2C%203%2041%2008%20PM.jpeg Pic of valves https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/21448276/File%20Jul%2025%2C%203%2041%2027%20PM.jpeg
  11. Clearance was in spec, but I'm in the middle of pulling the head off now. Will see what I find.
  12. Thanks for the reply! The cam chain appears to be tight. Is there a way to test or confirm that the tensioner and or cam chain are toast?
  13. I'm having trouble diagnosing this ticking noise coming from the head on my bike. I'd appreciate any suggestions and can provide additional information/clarification if needed. I'm looking to pull the head apart, but I need some help pinning down an area or two to focus on. https://youtu.be/nAbmLh8_iGM