MurrayOhio

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About MurrayOhio

  • Rank
    TT Newbie

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  • Location
    Ohio
  • Interests
    Motorcycles, diving, flying
  1. Not to hijack the thread but I need to replace my left radiator on my 06 yz450f. Found a place with new 08 radiators at a good price. Anyone know if they will fit? I dont totally understand the yamaha part numbers but they are really close. 08 part #2S2-1240A-70-00 06 part #2S2-1240A-00-00 If they work it will save me a bundle. Thanks -Murray
  2. Racing was great today, track was perfect! Could have used more bodies but even with the group we got it was a lot of fun. We had 5 in the PRO 10" class, 3 for the 12" mod class, a bunch for the 50 stock and 10" mod. Next race people really need to check this place out. Ted did a great job. listen to this, we did a 10 lap qualifier/heat race to determine gate pick then a 20 lap main. I was dying after the 10 laps and could barely hold on by the end of a 20 lap main. Should have some pictures up soon. -Murray
  3. Just some info for an Ohio indoor race Saturday Jan 13th. ----------------------------------------- Were having a pit bike race this weekend on Sat. jan.13th Gates open at 10am Sign up at noon Practice at 1pm race starts at 2:30pm This will give some people time too sleep in or if they have a long drive they will have plenty of time to get here. It should be a pretty good time. We have eight classes and will be paying back money to the pro classes and 150cc class. We might have a holeshot award for each class too. Here is the list of the classes: Gate fee: $8 50 stock First class: $20 10'' mod Second class: $15 10'' pro Third class: $10 12'' stock 12'' mod 12'' pro 0-125cc 0-150cc (liquid or air cooled motors)** THE NEW HONDA CRF150R IS ALLOWED IN THIS CLASS >>**NOTE: Heard from Ted that this class may be changed up a bit.<< For more info call (740)-826-4441 or visit our website at www.pitbikeracing.com ------------------------------------------- Hope to see some people out there should be a great time! -Murray Stock production KLX #653
  4. Let me know how it goes for you! Have FUN! -Murray
  5. Honestly what are you worried about? Its a pitbike race and its all for fun. At least thats how I look at every pit race I attend. Just go out and have a blast watching a bunch of big guys riding little bikes. You arent getting paid to do this and you dont depend on this to put food on the table. Bottom line have fun and ride the best you can! -Murray KLX 110 Stock/Prod #653
  6. Call Wheeling Cycle. I'm not going to list the price I paid here but I couldnt find a better price on a 06 250F anywhere. I will say they were lower than everything listed in this thread so far. Give them a call. I'm in Ohio and paid no tax or title.
  7. I think it depends on the number. I have a 3 digit number and there was no way 7" numbers would fit. I went with 6" and they look fine. -Murray
  8. Folks, Got a 06 YZ250F this past weekend and I notice a bog so I am following the advice here and ordered the #40 leak jet. This was a PITA at the dealer since the #40 is not listed in the fiche. Anyway to save people time below is the Yamaha number. 4JT-1494F-03-00 I couldnt find this when searching here. Hope it helps. -Murray
  9. I dont think assembly or gear not meshing was the cause of my problem. Actually have been riding the bike for a bunch of hours and everything was fine. Took a hole shot in second and it wouldnt go to third. I should have just shut the bike off right then and there but thought that this was more of a clutch explosion and a piece of that got behind the arm, so rode it back to the staging area. Looked down again and oil was draining. Like I said when I compared the two gear assemblies the new gear was much lower on the shaft and making much better contact with the crank gear. Not sure if the old gear moved when it broke or in worked it's way up somehow. Anyway back together and will fire her up this weekend and see how things go. -Murray Columbus Ohio
  10. I would pull the pressure plate off and make sure the pushrod is extending enough. It's possible the pushrod isnt seated properly in the shift arm (not sure of real name but the thing the clutch cable is connected to.) When the clutch is engaged you should be able to see a bit of a gap. The gap will likely be near the hub since your plates are likely slightly stuck together. You should also put a finger on the thrust washer before you button her up and confirm it is extending. I know I've had the shift arm and pushrod out of whack once before and the clutch symtom you mention was the same. Hope that helps -Bob Murray Columbus Ohio
  11. Bike: 01 250F Oddly enough this just happened to me as well. The gear behind the impeller in the case broke in two pieces. Didnt realize it until a piece got jammed behind the shifter arm and I couldnt shift out of 2nd. The other piece decided it wanted to go for a stroll and bounced around until it cracked the crankcase. I ripped the motor apart and couldnt find any other metal that could have caused the problem. Welded the crack and waiting for a couple gaskets now to close her up. It seems really strange to me that this thing snapped. One thing I did noticed is that the gear appeared to be moved up a little on the shaft compared to the new shaft and gear assembly. I thought that maybe the gear had wore out and creped up just enough to catch a tooth and snap on the crank gear. Thoughts? Hey first time posting too! I really get a lot out of this group and it's helped me get this bike running really well. Thanks folks! -Bob Columbus Ohio