Possu

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About Possu

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    TT Member

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  • Location
    United Kingdom
  • Interests
    Bikes, travel, environment
  1. Recently bought a used 2010 FE390.
  2. Thanks for the info. Removed the cams etc, all's well, will order the shims tomorrow. Only thing different to what I expected is that both exhaust shims are marked up as being 318 (3.18mm) which I've confirmed with a Micrometer? I thought the Suzuki shims only came in 0.5mm increments? Bike's got less 2,700 miles on it since new, I guess theese are the original factory shims that were fitted to bring the clearances in to spec during the build? Am I better off swapping the current 318 exhaust shim for a 310 to increase the gap to 0.28mm or would I better going for a 315 to take it to 0.23mm? I'm in favour of the larger clearance personally seeing as how the gaps already closed up to 0.20mm but am open to advice. :thumb I measured up the remaining two shims & noted the shim sizes for future reference. The bike won't be ridden much before it's shipped to Buenos Aires on 10th August.
  3. Just measured the valve clearances on my partners DRZ, not sure if I should change a couple of the shims? The right hand inlet measures 0.10mm, right on the bottom limit of the 0.10 - 0.20mm range specified in the manual. There's very little drag on the 0.10mm feeler gauge blade which makes me think the actual clearance is 0.11 or 0.12mm. The right hand exhaust measures 0.20mm, right on the bottom limit of the 0.20 - 0.30mm range specified in the manual. There's some drag on the 0.20mm feeler gauge blade which makes me think the gap is 0.20mm exactly. The manual states that the above readings are fine & that there's no need to adjust. However the bike is heading off on a 5,000 mile trip through South America starting mid-August. My feeling is that I should adjust both clearances to the mid way setting of 0.15mm (approx) for the inlet & 0.25mm for the exhaust in case the clearances tighten up? This would also bring them in to line with the other two valves. The idea is that once adjusted the valves shouldn't need looking at again for the duration of the trip. I'm not sure if DRZ valves have a habit of tightening or loosening up as the miles are covered? All advice appreciated.
  4. Removeable collar, allows you to locate the brace under your body armour.
  5. Looking to buy a waterproof Leatt Brace compatible jacket. Three come to mind: The KTM Rally jacket: I don't like it although the price is good. The Klim Adventure jacket: way too expensive for me. I can afford it but can't justify the cost. Troy Lee "Blais" jacket: favourite so far. Looks good, price is good. Any one with experience of the Blais jacket willing to post their thoughts, negative or positive?
  6. Excellent, thanks for the link, have forwarded it to my mate.
  7. Trying to help a mate out. He's got a DRZ with the stainless spacer fitted when he bought the bike. It's leaking oil from the spacer. He fitted a new oil seal & o'ring but it still leaks? He's noticed that the spacer is scored in places, may be the culprit? Can't find the stainless spacers for sale in the UK, used to see them on UK Ebay regularly but no more - any ideas where they can purchased as a new stainless spacer is probably the way to go.
  8. About 260-270hrs on my 04 KTM 400EXC, mileage is about 6,500.
  9. If it's been maintained properly, then 50 hours is nothing. I bought my 2004 KTM 400EXC in 2007 just as it turned 3 years old. It had 165 hours on it. It's now on 256 hours, I just change the oil & filters regularly, done the valves twice & keep an eye on air filters & plug. I've greased the steering bearings twice & replaced all the wheel bearings once. The bike still runs great, very happy with it.
  10. Polishing Magnesium leaves it very prone to corrosion, hence magnesium race bike wheels are always painted etc.
  11. Check out the Advrider European forum, several meets a year, mainly in North & South Wales plus a few smaller local rides but not forgetting the yearly European meet. Had a 100 mile ride on the 1st March, brilliant day. THere are 60+ of us meeting in North Wales on 20-22 March (fully booked though), spilitting in to 7 groups dependant on bike & ability. Plenty of trails in the Peak District.
  12. Have you stripped the threads when removing the plug or merely rounded out the Allen key head so that you can't get the plug out? If the latter, I had a friend TiG (HeliArc) weld a nut to the end of an 8mm Allen Key & then weld the Allen Key to the head of the plug. Came straight out, the heat from the welding expanded the cases a little, freeing it off slightly. Previous owner had overtightened the plug, rounded it out but not stripped the threads. MiG welding will work, I could have done this myself but there's less chance of weld splatter with TiG.
  13. I quite often weld a short strip of steel to the inner race of the bearing. This gives tou something to drift against. The heat from from welding also expands the hub so that bearing comes out easier. If you're quick in removing one bearing & the centre spacer, there's normally enough residual heat in the hub to aid removal of the remaining bearing. If not, heat the hub with a hot air gun (mine's 500w). To refit the bearings, heat the hub & leave the bearings in a sealed bag in the freezer, they'll drop in easy. Have the correct sized drift to hand just in case they need a little persuading to fit properly.
  14. Mainly road bikes but quite a few dirt bikes, do a national search: http://search.autotrader.co.uk/es-uk/www/cars/AdvertSearch/N-0/search_form.action Also check out UK based bike model specific forums such as www.ukgser.com if you're after a BMW GS for instance. http://www.motorcyclenews.com/MCN/bikesforsale/ also worth checking out. If you ever need to enter a postcode, use mine: OX3 8HF (Oxford, UK - 60 miles north west of London & 60 miles south of Birmingham). TBM magazine is also worth buyimg if it's an enduro bike you want.