KDN

Members
  • Content count

    672
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

30 Excellent

About KDN

  • Rank
    TT Silver Member

Profile Information

  • Location
    Florida
  1. Here in FL, riding an unlicensed vehicle on the street is a FELONY!! Not a TRAFFIC TICKET, but ARRESTED and FELONY!! And you can imagine what a PITA it is to have one of THOSE on your record - job applications, background checks, loan apps, etc. ALL come up with a felony!
  2. Well, maybe not. Some threads I've read here indicate that only ONE gear needs to be replaces in the NX-upgrade deal. Apparently, only ONE of the pair that make up a gear set is different in the NX from the XR-L. Different base diameter and different number of teeth, etc. but still the same fit. And further, apparently that NX 5th gear is only available from European suppliers. Kinda rare, I guess. So, there you go.
  3. Hey, guys, thanks for the input. That's how we'll do it, then. Thanks again, Kirk
  4. My son's 1993 Honda XR650L transmission developed a problem where it would jump out of 2nd gear. Split the cases and found slight wear on that one shifter fork, and slight wear on the 2nd gear "slots" where the adjacent gear dogs engage and slight wear on the adjacent gear dogs (5th gear) that do the engaging. So, I need the shifter fork and the 2nd gear and the 5th gear. But, do I need the PAIR of 2nd gears and the PAIR of 5th gears? Is it 'good practice' to replace them as a pair, or just the one that's bad? Neither gear has any sign of wear on the teeth or any other issues. Just on the engagement dogs on the one and the engagement slots on the other. I'm inclined to just replace the two individual gears, but didn't want to wind up with some new, odd problem (like poor shifting or gear whine) due to one old / one new mating pair. Thoughts? Thanks, Kirk
  5. Unfortunately, It wasn't correct at all. When the points are closed, current flows THROUGH the coil windings (one set of windings), through the closed points to ground. No current flows INTO the condenser at that time. This current flow through the coil builds up a magnetic field in those windings. When the points open, that current flow stops and the magnetic field IN THE COIL WINDINGS collapses. That collapsing field is what induces a voltage in the other set of coil windings and that voltage causes current to flow, jumping the spark plug gap. When the points open, if there were no condenser, there would be a tendency to "draw an arc" before the points got wide enough to stop the flow. When the points open, the condenser charges, helping the magnetic field to collapse by giving that bit of current a place to go instead of trying to draw an arc across the points. That's why the condenser is there. It does NOT discharge into the coil to make the spark. Sorry. Kirk
  6. Hey, I guess I forgot to post back with the results - forum overload, 'cause I DID post results elswhere... Sorry. http://vjmog.com/ftopict-4939-bitsa.html Rather than post it all over again, the above thread on the Vintage Japanese Motorcycles Owners Group forum posts it all, right up to the successful end. So far, I've got over 1000 miles on the rebuild. Running great and getting 90 ~ 94 mpg! As for the head swap - this was an early, one-piece head so there are no interchange issues at all. The problem crops up in trying to use the later, two-piece heads. They swap, but the 2-piece head's cam sits closer to the deck surface, so you need to use the shorter cam chain and shorter tensioner pieces from the later models, along with the 2-piece head. Kirk
  7. I guess I always thought the difference was that IT's were never intended to be street-legal, and the DT's were. Trail / woods / enduro bikes vs. dual-sports.
  8. No no - MANY vintage bikes use the JIS screws. Honda, Yamaha, even off-brands like Hodaka used that JIS screw.
  9. ThumpNRed, that sure is a sweet-looking bike you've got. We just picked up a '93 XR650L for my son to ride. Still going thru some maintenance items it needed, but we're anxious to get 'er back on-line. As for my fin edge highlights, I used a dremel tool with an 80-grit little flapper wheel in it. Worked really nice on that Ascot. The edges were not uniform in thickness when I started, but I gave 'em a few strokes with a flat file first. That filed the fins back a tiny bit into the thicker bit of the fin and kinda got the edge a more uniform thickness amongst 'em all. I, too, like the looks of that red engine. Very unique, and I'd keep it that way. My favorite look is to polish (well, not POLISH, but rather sanded aluminum) the fin edges on the head only, leaving the fin edges on the cylinder painted. And, only do the fin edges on the SIDE of the head. The fin edges on the exhaust side and the intake side remain painted. Just my two cents. Be sure to post back with some pictures when you get to that point! Kirk
  10. I did my '72 Honda SL100 motor following a cases-split overhaul using Rustoleum 500-degree rattle can paint in color "Cast Coat Aluminum". Looks perfect after >1000 miles of commuting and trail-riding here in Central Fla. No discoloring, no overheating, no blemishes to date! I also did a SL125 motor in that same brand of 'semi-gloss black' but that motor is still apart. I'll assume it will hold up the same, because, come to think of it, I also did the cylinder and head of an FT500 in that same black, and it has held up great.
  11. It's not THAT difficult. From what I recall, the 185 motors, the front and rear motor mounts are NARROWER than the earlier 100/125 mounts, which makes a swap easier - a stack of washers here and there and your set. The upper head mount, I seem to recall, is different altogether. You either have to fab up some new plates, weld something onto the frame, or leave that upper mount off altogether. As for exhaust and pegs, you're right, they'll be the trickiest part, as will getting the airbox boot to line up with the carb. Worth it? Well, if you've got a line on the motor and it's in fair shape, I'd go for it. As for the bike's ability to go faster? I wouldn't give that a second thought. Wasn't 'meant' to go that fast? Psshhh.... Another possibility is fitting one of the Chinese 'Lifan' 200cc motors in. They're a direct bolt-in for the early- to mid-70s 100/125 bikes. Plus, you get e-start, 12-volts and 200cc. And, if not flogged mercilessly, they hang in there OK. There are a couple of swap threads documented out there. Search the webs, you'll find 'em. Good luck with it, whichever way you go. Kirk
  12. You don't need a new float unless something's wrong that isn't showing in that pic. The dent won't affect it's function at all. But, something I HAVE done is to hold a cigarette lighter flame under the dented float (flame about 1" away from metal, kinda moving back and forth so's not to overheat one specific spot). The sealed air in the float will heat and expand and pop that dent right out! Otherwise, that carb looks in emminently useable condition. Buy the pilot jet for 10 bucks and be done with it. Good luck, whichever way you go with it. Kirk **oops - just re-read your post and see you mentioned the float is leaking. I'd STILL fix it. An ordinary soldering iron, some solder and some flux paste and you'll be right back in business for $0
  13. Not to be a jerk, but there's yer clue. Somethin' wuz done wrong in that process. Pull the carb back off, look again, double-check for air leaks.
  14. So, last Tuesday came and went... I wonder if our OP bought it or not?
  15. Overkill!! Why pay for a V-rated (149mph) tire? A Honda 100 wouldn't go 149mph unless you threw it out of an airplane! Otherwise, it'll do.