brent j

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About brent j

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  1. Must also add that I no longer need to wear glasses at all.
  2. Much the same here. Cataracts in both eyes and since I'd gotten used to them I never realised. Have now had cataracts removed from both eyes and artificial multi focal lenses inserted. AMAZING difference. Now ride faster with less effort, safer and can buy any type of goggles I want with out having to find suitable OTG types
  3. Sorry JJmaine I just can't remember if I ran the nut or not. I'm thinking not. We sold the bike a few years ago when the boss gave up riding. The shock can be removed and replaced from the bottom with minimal work I do remember that
  4. I've run YSS shocks and PD valves in the forks on several vintage MX bikes over the years AND on my wife's CRF230. The shock on the 230 was great and set up for her ability etc. The guy at YSS Australia (Walter) has always been very helpful. I'll be using YSS stuff on my Suzuki PE250B, 400T, RL250 and TS90MX
  5. I'll be watching for it, definitely!
  6. Thanks Woodsryder, they're the best answers I've had to my questions so far By the way what happened to you "lite-bikes" website?
  7. If you are still running the standard springs go heavier. Probably close to what you are running in your "other bike" or a little less
  8. Here's my two cents worth on 2WD, I posted it on another site and have simply copied it here. I must add that I have owned a KTM350 Freeride for four years so my opinion is a bit biased. I'd love to try a Freeride E but I don't think there are any in Australia and there are certainly none where I live I got to thinking about an electric Freeride but on a different train of thought from KTM's idea. These are just some ideas I dreamed up during a boring day, they may or may not be valid and/or start a discussion I don't know much about electrics and control systems but I'm sure someone on here can add their thoughts 1 Regenerative braking, should add to battery life. Can it be moderated like the normal brakes? Is there a limit on how fast the charge can be pushed back into the battery? May need a manual braking back up in some circumstances. 2 Hub centre motor(s) Would add unsprung weight but do away with a chain and all that goes with it. Would also allow more space for batteries where the motor normally sits. Why not run two? One front, one rear. Set up a steering angle sensor and vary the speed so both wheels run at the true speed of the arc when cornering. Perhaps reduce power to a spinning wheel or add power to one under more load Like I say just ideas Cheers Brent
  9. By the same springs do you mean standard springs? IF you are running standard springs that would be the first thing I would change
  10. Two pages, 35 posts, lots of theories, opinions and ideas but has anyone yet made a set of tanks and tried them?
  11. I'm sorry if this sounds harsh but guys, you are over thinking this! I've read in this thread about valves to do various things, possibly cavitation on rebound, losing ride height and forks diving on down hills. We are dealing mostly with very simple, older forks here. They were never much good to start with but I'm reading of all these potential problems that COULD, MAYBE happen. Go to the hardware store, spend a few $ on some fittings and build a few different size tanks. Stop worrying about what could happen, put them on your bike, ride it, find out
  12. This is the tank set up I'm using on the Freeride at present. I've tried different tank volumes but settled on these. I've got some tidier fittings to go in the fork caps and one day I may make some prettier tanks, maybe.........
  13. The air tube I used was 6mm on the CRF230 to clear the bars and I’m using the same on the Freeride for the same reason. Usually I’ll just mount the tank directly to the fork cap and above it, in-line with the forks. There’s very little load on them so just drill and tap the end cap and screw your fittings in there. For PVC tube diameter, find something close to the diameter of the fork tubes and make the length about the same as your oil height. I’m currently using the following, end cap, tube, joiner, tube, end cap. The tube is long enough so there is a gap of about 5mm between the fittings which wide enough to get cable ties in there to hold them in place I started with the std oil height and rode it. That gave a major improvement in low speed comfort but would bottom on jumps so I added 10ml of oil at a time till I had a balance between comfort and bottoming resistance I’ll try and get a photo of the set up on my Freeride. It’s the only bike at home at present
  14. I just looked at the post in the other thread. On the 230 I used PVC tanks but mounted them across the crossbar for some reason that I don't remember. I used flexible lines and you can see the right angle fittings in the fork caps On the others I just tapped one end of the tank, tapped the top of the fork cap and used a 1/8" gas nipple to connect them. To test how well they work (or don't) put a ball valve in between, that way you can ride it with no tanks (valve closed) and with tanks working. This way you have on instant comparison
  15. Your description above is spot on and exactly what I have found. I fitted them to my wife's 230 after also fitting springs and emulators. I made them from PVC fittings for about $10. You can spend much more on a kit but apart from being pretty they won't do any more. I think there are photos that show my set up in the "Handlebar/footpeg position" thread. I mounted them directly to the top of the fork caps via a 1/8" nipple. I ran ball valves for a while to test them but didn't find any perfect setting. The ball valves are good however to show if the concept works or not. The advantage of running them above the forks is that any oil that gets in the tanks will just drain back. I didn't join them as when the bike is on it's side oil can feed from one fork to the other. I run tanks on all my vintage MX bikes and have a set on my KTM Freeride. I've played with different tank volumes but I THINK running the same air volume as is in the forks on full compression SEEMS to be a good starting point. ie work out the volume in the fork above the oil on full comp (as you set your oil height) and make the tanks about same In other words, don't stress too much on the details, make a couple of sets of different volumes, they cost SFA to make so try several.