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TE6

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About TE6

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    Australia
  1. Possibly the pickup coil attached to the stator. This is a bit of and issue with a lot of bikes that get very hot. That, and not changing the oil ferquently can conrtibute to the stator itself being damaged due to acid in the oil munching on the insulation.
  2. The rebuild cost might be for a totally rewound stator. In my experience, it's the pickup coil that is usually problematic. There might be someone where you are who will supply a pickup coil, run the wiring through the stator wiring plug and fit new connectors. BTW, I believe a new stator assemble here in Australia is AUD$600 or so. Nasty. So bearing that in mind US$300 isn't too bad...
  3. TE6

    05 TTR-250 cuts out on throttle

    Good work, barra! My TTR sometimes sits around for a while when it's not at work, and it takes a while for it to run ok even with fuel conditioner in it. Now I know what it is. You learn something new every day!
  4. TE6

    ttr250 rear shock problems?

    My 05 TTR250 has >70k on the clock. The linkage bearings (self-lubing) were perfect. I've never even looked at them until recently. However, both top and bottom shock mount bearings were stuffed, as were the seals. It will cost some good money, but I suggest you get your shock rebuilt if the shaft and body are ok. Obviously it will have to be stripped to find that out. I've done a lot of research looking for aftermarket shocks, without success. Best to get yours rebuilt before its really rooted and costs heaps to replace. As the action is rubbish anyway, not a bad idea to get it revalved etc at the same time. All of the above depends on how good your bike is. If it's in good condition it might be worth the effort and expenditure.
  5. TE6

    Manual Tensioning Limit

    Thanks for your reply Barra8. Yeah, I should've stated the bike is a 2005 TTR250. I did mention it has a manual camchain tensioner. That was a good answer of yours about the finger-tight method. It works well, so again, thank you. However, I was really wondering how far the tensioning screw can be wound in before there are problems.
  6. TE6

    Manual Tensioning Limit

    Hi all, It's a long time since I've posted/visited T/Talk, but the time has come to ask how far you can crank in a manual tensioner before trouble is caused. The end of teh thread? 10mm before the end of the thread? Any valid info will be much appreciated.
  7. I figure that just over 1L of coolant is worth replacing often. BTW if you leave the radiator cap on, then undo the barrel coolant drain bolt, no coolant leaks out. Push a piece of hose hard up against the barrel with the other end in a bottle, then release the radiator cap. Coolant will run out and no mess. I have also found that using BelRay thumper oil reduces the frequency of the time-consuming valve clearance job. Slower wear rate I suppose.
  8. TE6

    Footpegs for TE610

    I'm pretty sure the pegs from an 02 570 will fit, and also those from a 99 TE610 (not the E model)
  9. TE6

    07 610?

    Does anyone know whether the 07 610s are any different to our 06 models? (hope they've got a bigger tank.....................)
  10. TE6

    sm610 oil leaks

    I have found that these engines are prone to drooling oil from the tappet cover bolts. These bolts screw into holes open to the valve gear oil supply. Oil works its way up the threads and oozes out under the bolt heads. I fixed my 2000 610 and now my 06 610 by using either copper washers under the bolts or washers from the rocker shaft bolts. They have a rubber seal on the inside and work really well. Hope this is of some value.
  11. TE6

    te610e 2003 rattle at idle

    Is it possible that you are running too slow idle speed? I had one of the 610Es for 20,000 km and worked it pretty hard. It never rattled at idle unless I set it too low (or the valves needed adjustment). It doesn't take much extra clearance to get the tappets rattling annoyingly as I'm sure you already know. My current 06 610 will also clatter if the idle is too low (< 1200 rpm approx). Also there is no real need for your bike to be slow. I kept the stock mufflers on my 01 model E, added a 2T (47) bigger rear sprocket, drilled 3 fair-sized holes in the airbox cover, and re-jetted. Mine always ran to 170+ km/h on the speedo after the mods, and I am a windsock. IMO the engine was much sweeter in that bike than the new one, though I concede the new one accelerates very fast for what it is once the stock pipe is junked.
  12. TE6

    TE610 Jetting

    IMO the 06 610's jetting is less of an issue than the standard muffler which is very bad for upper mid and top end power ie it kills it. I have a Barrett pipe on mine which transformed my bike from bad to excellent power-wise, but I imagine any decent muffler would deliver good results I also changed things re jetting as I have drilled 5 X 30mm holes in the airfilter cover. I went to a #174 main from #172, stock needle on the 3rd groove from the top, and a #42 pilot down from a #50. As it is I think the bike runs a little lean on the transition from pilot to needle (bearing in mind the pilot is always affecting jetting to some degree right through the throttle range). I have noticed a massive improvement in both acceleration and steady throttle fuel economy, the hunting and lurching in low-load high-speed situations (such as downhill on freeways) has disppeared to the point where it is rare and no drama. Altitude is not really much of an issue with us South Australians as we call a 2000ft hill a mountain. Hope this helps.
  13. TE6

    TE610 Mods?

    The best thing you can give your 610 is a performance pipe eg Leo Vince (I have a Barrett on mine) and a rejet eg 42 or 45 pilot, stock needle in #3 or #4 groove and a 174 main at around sea level. You will be amazed at the force coming out of that thing, which is impossible with the stock muffler - even though it is indisputably loud my bike was about as good as a TT350 at anything above mid-range. Getting rid of the stocker eradicated hunting at high-speed low throttle (eg long freeway descents), improved fuel consumption by around 25% at cruise speeds. I was put on to this by a Husky dealer friend and he was right on the money (thanks Paull!!) Hope this helps.
  14. Went to service my 610 last night and found fresh fuel on the crankcases, in the bashplate, and on the floor. I couldn't see where the leak was until I took the tank off and left it for a few minutes. Fuel was leaking from inside the tap and along the inside of the white fuel level sender wire. When it reached the open joint, it leaked down from inside the black wire sheathing and dripped from there. A new tap will be supplied under warranty, but the bike is basically disabled until then. I've tried cutting the white wire and removing the original sealing epoxy, then resealing the hole with fuel tank sealer. I don't know how long it will last. I'll also order a spare tap (used I hope) without the wires in case of emergency. Anyone else had this one happen?
  15. TE6

    First ride post Mikuni install

    You've done well to get your Husky to like that Mikuni. I have (had) 2 big-bore Huskys fitted with Japanese "hi-tech" carbs, and both times I asked myself why the hell they didn't leave the 40mm pumper Dellortos on them. For my money, Dellortos are a cinch to tune, you can get bits for them and they provided my other bikes with plenty of snap and great power and economy. In contrast I find the Mikuni and Keihin finicky, overly complex and susceptible to wear and very fussy about getting any dirt or dust in them at all. But to each their own, and all this is only my opinion. I really loved my 02 570, and seriously regret selling it, Mikuni and all! Have fun mate.
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