imotormz450

i've tested the pc-304 combo and the fmf factory fatty/shorty. the pc makes more power in the upper-mid to high rpm range, the low to mid not so much. the fatty hits hard from the bottom through the mid but tends to sign off a little early. then i tried the fatty with the pc 304... now that's the set up, plenty of power in the meat and more over-rev... it roosts!

if you want the 300 to rev do the dicks carb mod and a pc pipe. i have a 250sx with the 300 kit and these mods and it rips on the top end.

the carb does get alittle dirty but nothing to get excited about (it cleans right up).

do it... its like turbo charging your engine. did it to my '11 250sx and it worked great, then when i installed the sxs300 kit... WOW... it really hauls ass!!!

dump the yamaha... the 300 sxs kit is motor magic!!!! it will add boost (and roost) off the bottom all the way thru the mid range and with a fmf pipe w/ shorty and a dicks racing carb mod it rips on the top end as well. the yamaha has great suspension but feels heavy and slugish on the track (and trail). go with the pumpkin!!!!

a long handle 13mm allen works perfect also. make sure to locktite (blue) the connection when re-installing it.

I have a 2011 250sx and i'm in the process of stripping it down to powder coat the frame (orange of course). How do you remove the downtube hose connector from the y-connector assembly inside the frame gussets? And how does it re-connect? Thanks.

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