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About rtv

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  1. I'll buy another (aftermarket) front sprocket just to check it out. I generally get a full racing season out of the Primary Drive chains, at about half the price other x-ring chains, and just throw the chain and sprockets away at the end of the season and start over fresh the next season. I really like the 49 tooth rear sprocket. It adds just a little bit more down low for hauling my 210# ass around. I have to admit, I have very little time on the 18' as the weather up here has been just terrible, but the guys that are saying the engine in this bike is lacking or would hold them back from winning are just funny to read. This bike goes damn good.
  2. I took the washer off the front of the sprocket and put it behind the sprocket and bought another washer for the front. I haven't had any problems yet, but I know this is not an ideal solution. This is with using a Primary Drive x-ring chain, stock front sprocket and Pro-x 49 tooth rear.
  3. If you're talking strictly about the power jet, you won't hurt a thing by going leaner on it(power jet). As a matter of fact you could disconnect it and plug the power jet itself and the bike would run just fine without it, and be easier to jet.
  4. I noticed on my 18' when using an x-ring chain that it rubs the engine case. What are other doing to prevent this, grind the case down in that particular spot, run a spacer behind the sprocket or ?
  5. Yes, either setup will work with pump fuel.
  6. I'll give you a couple of options for the #8 slide. 1--very responsive and clean, Suzuki NECH in clip #2, 42 pilot, and 172 main, AS@ 1.5 turns out. 2--little stronger off the bottom and into the middle, Yamaha N3CW in clip #3, 45 pilot, 178 main, AS@1.5 turns out. These are starting points for temps in the +60 deg F
  7. Those are not the jets that you need. Those are pilot jets and completely different than what you are looking for. These are power/leak jets. https://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/p/930/47202/Keihin-N424-52-Series-Leak-Jet
  8. You're going to wind up with a little leaner jetting using the 36mm carb. I would start out with a 40 pilot, leave the needle and clip position where they are now, and you are going to be about sizes smaller on the main. Start out with a 165 and work your way down, and leave the AS @1.5 to start out.
  9. That is NOT the jet block gasket for a later model Keihin AS2 carb( top held on by 2 screws). That gasket is for a jet block out of the older style AS1 carb ( the top screws on). The 2 styles are different, and do not really interchange.
  10. Do NOT remove those hex screws to inspect the jet block. The jet block gasket for that style Keihin PWK is NOT in your rebuild kit or available thru any of the OEM's. If you damage the gasket, it may be a PIA to get a replacement. The only time that gasket ever gets replaced, is if the bike is running over rich with what I would consider lean jetting. If the PB Blaster doesn't work at loosening the pilot jet, try a 50/50 mixture of trans fluid and acetone.
  11. I've been on the Crestline trail may times, if you take it back toward Petersburg it branches off into Mass and VT. I've been out to the old ski area and back down to the snow hole a bunch of times. They are not trails that I would take a bunch of people that I don't know their experience level on. The Stateline Riders MC club also owns land right around Babcock lake just outside of Grafton. It's similar size wise to Carta, but more technical. I'm a member of both clubs.
  12. The 15' would really benefit from running a leaner H diameter needle(N5HH) along with a 42 pilot and 115 main. These would be for spring summer conditions. I also don't doubt that you could get away with running similar jetting in the 18' as well.
  13. The jet needle between the 2 carbs is different, which is the main tuning aspect of the carb. All the other jets(pilot and main) are tuned around the needle. The N5HG needle in the 15' is I believe a duel taper needle, while the NRKC needle in the 18' is a triple taper needle. Which bike is jetted better ?
  14. I've owned 3 yz250's, a 91' an 06 and an 09', and I too have never tried a single taper needle in those bikes(06' & 09'). I always went to the Suzuki or Kawasaki oem triple taper needles for those bikes. I have tested single taper needles in many , many other bikes, Suzuki, Honda, GasGas, and Kawasaki's, so I am very familiar with how they work and react in different displacement engines. A CEJ single taper needle would for sure be a viable option in a YZ. They(CEJ needle) are pretty clean off the bottom and into the middle on the Hondas and GasGas and Suzuki 250cc bike's I've tried them in. Although not as clean as the triple taper needles, but acceptably clean. Maybe it's just me, but I always found the single taper needles in the 250/300cc engines to be lacking in, aaaahhhh personality. They were almost always very bland, power wise, if that makes sense. I always felt like the triple taper, or duel taper, series dependent, needles were more tunable to the type of power I was looking for. I have used single taper needles in 125's with very good success though.
  15. If you really want to try a single taper needle,IMO, the multi taper needles are a better option for this bike, your best bet would be to start out with a CEJ in the #3 clip with a 48 or 45 pilot and 175 main. This will get you to decent,safe, starting point for spring/ summer conditions.