Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

About Beerbatter

  • Rank
    TT Member

Profile Information

  • Location
  1. Beerbatter

    Friday Club

    Thanks for the info. I will continue to watch the threads. -Noel
  2. Beerbatter

    Friday Club

    Hey gang. I just recently found the Friday Club threads and have been reading for a couple weeks to figure out what it's all about (very cool). I live in Orlando and would love to join you guys sometime soon for a ride. I ride mostly motocross these days, but I grew up on the trails. I'm on a 04' YZF 250. Is riding with the Friday Club as a guest just a matter of showing up at the right place at the right time? I'm pretty sure I know what the "Sandbox" is (I think). If I'm correct, I know a guy who owns land out there. Let me know. Thanks -Noel
  3. Beerbatter

    Beginners question on jumps and berms.

    Concerning the rear end poping up on you and sending you flying forward, check your shock rebound damping. If the shock rebounds to fast, it will tend to pitch you forward like that. I had a similar problem and solved it by increasing the rebound damping on the shock, which slows it down so it doesn't kick back so fast after being compressed. As the bike starts up the face of the jump, the rear shock usually gets compressed due to the inertia of the bike driving towards the face. As you leave the lip of the jump, the shock will rebound, releasing the stored energy. If the damping is set to low, the rebound will be to quick and the rear end will buck up and slap you in the butt, sending you flying off the pegs. Of course, what everyone else is saying applies as well, form and staying on the throttle. Pay attention to whats happening on other parts of the track to assess your shock rebound damping. Another thing that happens when the rebound is to fast is that the rear will bounce around and buck you all over the place going over fast bumps and small woops. If the rear tends to be in the air a lot instead of down on the ground grabbing traction, your rebound probably needs to be slowed down some. Try increasing your rebound damping 2 clicks and try again. Another test I like to make that gets you in the ball park is to stand next to your bike and with your foot, put weight on the peg to compress the front forks and rear shock. Then quickly hop off and watch what the bike frame does at is moves back up. If the suspension is balanced, the frame should move stay parallel to the ground and the front and rear should move up simultaneously. If the rear end jumps up quicker than the front, pitching the frame forward, then your rear is rebounding to fast. Good luck, and whatever you do, make one change at a time, test, and then make the next adjustment.
  4. Beerbatter

    Yamaha Triple clamp offsets

    Don't quote me on this but I think it's 25mm.
  5. Beerbatter

    Yamaha Triple clamp offsets

    I know this is an old thread, but it poped up during my searching, so for the moment, it gets revived. I've been riding my 04 YZF 250 for a year and a half now and have been very happy with it, until I jumped on a 06 CRF 250 this weekend. I was so much faster on the CRF because it carved through the turns almost effortlessly compared to my YZF. With my YZF, it seems like I have to fight the bars to keep it tracking and not pushing out or sliding out. And, making it turn sharp seems like it takes a lot of effort too. It just doesn't like to be leaned over and railed. On the CRF I rode, I could just point the front wheel in the direction I wanted and hit the throttle and that thing would just go there, without having to fight it at all. Also, on the CRF, the rear end didn't have a tendency to slide out from under me when I gave it the gas through a turn. The CRF seemed to deliver the power to the turn and the power helped rail the bike through the turn, whereas with my YZF, I have to be real careful when I add power in the turn to keep my rear from spinning or sliding out. So I started searching and what I have found so far is that the best change I can make to make my YZF handle more like that CRF I tested is the 23mm offset tripple clamp. I realize that the 04 YZF can't compare in general to the 06 CRF due to steel versus aluminum frame, and much better forks on the CRF, among other things, but I'll settle for a litte better turning since I can't aford another bike right now. Any additional comments from you all would be greatly appreciated. Oh and one more thing, in the air the CRF felt much easier to control than my YZF, but there is probably nothing I can do about that. - Noel
  6. Beerbatter

    My Air Filter Came Off!

    I haven't torn into the top end yet, but it's coming. In the mean time, I pulled the filter box off and the intake boot, which let's you look through the carb with the throttle twisted open. Using a flashlight, I could see the intake ports and the stems of the intake valves. I swear it looks like it's brand new in there. I at least expected to see some grime and maybe some residue, but it looks bright, shiny and clean. Still need to work the head though since it's an 04. But the bike has not been riden to hard and never raced. Weekend warrior only. - Noel
  7. Beerbatter

    My Air Filter Came Off!

    Thanks for the help so far gang. Man Butch, I didn't know doing a top end was so expensive. I only paid $3500 for the whole bike in mint condition in the first place. Tranqwhl, I'll check the plastic thing out, worth a look. dkwkid, I ordered a new filter (Twin-Air) that should be better. I'm a pretty good mechanic myself, so I may tackle the top end job myself in the near future, except I'll have a machine shop do the valves.
  8. Beerbatter

    My Air Filter Came Off!

    After a day of riding at the track, I went to clean my air filter on my 04 YZ250F and found that the air filter came partially off. The filter I was using doesn't have the plastic washer in the center, so the foam made it around the metal washer on the center bolt and the filter pulled away from the screens rim. Anyway, that let dirt into the rubber intake boot while I was riding. I checked carefully and it appears that all of the dirt stuck to the inside of the boot because it has filter oil covering the inner boot surface. I took the filter box out and pulled the intake boot off to check the inside of the carb and couldn't see or feel any dirt stuck to the insides of the carb surfaces, but that doesn't mean some particles didn't make it through. I think the majority of the dirt got captured by the oily boot surfaces, but my question is, assuming some did make it into the carb, is there anything I should do beyond cleaning the boot and box out real good and replacing the filter with one that won't come off? Mostly concerned with the engine and what affects this may have had on the piston, rings valves, etc. Thanks for any advice. - Noel
  9. Beerbatter

    04 YZ250F Rear Bearings?

    Thanks oldnbold. The bearings are in great shape, that is why I hate to cut or damage them. The grease is all dried up and stiff and I wanted to get them out to clean them real good, blow them out with compressed air, and repack. Here is another idea I think I might try. Take some sort of clyinder, a regular socket would probably work, that has an OD very close to the ID of the bearing such that the socket slip fits in the inner race. Next, using a hacksaw, slice the socket lengthwise down the center about 2/3 of the way through so that the 2 halves can spring back and fourth, but not all the way through to split the socket in half. Next, find or form a wedge that can be inserted into the slice in the socket. Slip the socket into the bearing, slide the wedge in the slice and smack it a few time with a hammer while supporting the socket from the other end. What this should do is expand the socket inside the inner race, exactly like some of the very expensive blind bearing pullers do. With the socket now expanded and locked into the inner race, I should be able to knock out the socket with bearing still attached from the opposite end. In essence, this is a poor-mans blind bearing puller. I let you guys know how it works. - Noel
  10. Beerbatter

    How a pro mx'r rides a stock '07 WR250F

    That's a great story. I've wondered that myself because I have a mostly stock 04 YZ250F that I've been riding for just over a year now and I've been wondering how much better I would be as a rider if I had a better machine. I've been thinking about having my suspension revalved thinking it would improve my performance, but haven't been able to convince myself to spend the money yet. I bet a good rider on my stock YZ250F would make me look silly. Don't get me wrong, I'm sure a revalve would help, but I agree with you, the value of any mod has a lot to do with how well a rider's skills can take advantage of what the mods have to offer. Thanks for the post. - Noel
  11. Beerbatter

    04 YZ250F Rear Bearings?

    RzDave, I hear ya man, that's a nice bearing puller but to steep at more than $200 for an occasional use. intensem, Now that is a great idea. The races are hardened steel, but I think a cuttoff wheel on a Dremel tool might do it. If I go that route, I'll post to let you guys know how it goes. Of course, that method requires bearing replacement instead of repacking, but bearings aren't expensive anyways. Thanks for the tips gang. - Noel
  12. Beerbatter

    04 YZ250F Rear Bearings?

    Nope. Read above again, tried that, can't get enough surface to bite on with a punch. I did some more searching and found another trick that I haven't tried. Large center punch with a diameter slightly larger than the ID of the inner race, slightly tapered on the end to get it into the inner race. Then hit sharply twice with a hammer to jam it into the inner race. Then from the other end, use a small diameter center punch to knock out the large center pucnch with bearing still jammed on the large punch. Sounds good in theory, but if the bearing is in tight, I would think that the large center punch would just get knocked out again. Still worth a try though. At the very least it might free up the spacer enough to let me get at the inner race with a center punch from the opposite end. Man, bearings shouldn't be this hard. Darn, those blind bearing pullers are expensive! I looked.
  13. Beerbatter

    04 YZ250F Rear Bearings?

    Did all the searching and reading but didn't get anything really useful concerning replacement of the rear wheel bearings. I pulled the rear wheel off, pulled the spacers and seals out, and removed the snap ring on the one side. Now here's the problem, the cylindrical spacer inside the hub is so tight against both bearings that I can't get anything to bite on the inner race of either bearing in order to press one side out. Moving the spacer over to one side doesn't give enough surface either. Bought a puller from Harbor Freight and couldn't get that to bite either, again because the spacer is in the way and can't get the puller's grippers between the inner race and the spacer. Heating the hub to expand it didn't help, and I don't have a welder to weld something to the inner race in order to add something that I can hit with a punch. It looks like I'm going to have to purchase a fancy puller that expands to grip the inner race (expensive), unless one of you very clever brothers have one last idea to try. Thanks - Noel
  14. Beerbatter


    When I first got my YZ250F about a year ago, my rear end was kicking up off of jumps just as you describe. The first thing I did is what tomcanfixit suggested and I slowed the rebound down on the rear shock. I haven't had the kickup problem since. I agree with the others that body position is important also, but if your rear rebound is to fast, leaning back and loading up your rear end could be catastrophic when all that energy is suddenly released, kicking your rear end up even further and sending you over the bars (not a pretty sight). Suspension setting can be complex, but try this simple test. Assuming your front end compression and rebound are set approximately correct, and your sag is set, stand on the pegs while a second person holds the bike up straight for you. Bounce up and down on the pegs to make the bike spring up and down. If your rear end is anywhere close to set correctly and balanced, the frame should spring up and down level and stay horizontal with the ground. That means your rear end is responding approximately the same as the front and the suspension setting are balanced. If the rear tends to rise quicker than the front, increase (slow down) the rear rebound. Another thing to look for is your rear end kicking and bucking you all around going over fast bumps or small chop. That is another indication that your rear end is rebounding to fast. I know this is a little late, but may be helpful anyway. - Noel
  15. Beerbatter

    04 YZ250F Issues

    blndebmber, Sounds like your on the right track. Once you get all those other unknowns ruled out, you should be able to identify the real problem. One other thing I should mention is to check and maybe compare the front end rake angle to your husbands bike. As I understand it, decreasing the angle gives you better turning ability, but sacrifices stability on fast straights (which can turn into a wild shake, especially when coming into braking bumps). Conversly, increasing the angle decreases turning but gives more stability on straights. The angle can be changed by either moving the front forks up and down in the triple clamps, and also by lowering or raising the rear end. The rear end can be raised or lowered by either the sag setting on your rear shock, or by changing parts of the delta linkage under the swing arm. Therefore, check the position of your forks in the triple clamps, check your delta linkage to be sure someone didn't change or alter the linkage to lower the bike, and recheck your sag. Let us know how it goes. - Noel