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BV1

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Everything posted by BV1

  1. Just to follow up, I did go ahead and do this. I had no issue towing my 08RMZ in this manner with my Montana. Its actually quite solid and the van didnt look over weight. Not nearly as bad as when I hauled some sidewalk blocks home anyways. If you have a legitimate setup, with a proper hitch and a proper carrier and the hitch is designed to bolt to your particular vehicle. It will work, the rest is here say. If your van/truck isn't rated for a Class "X" hitch, then don't install one, and don't exceed the capacity. If it is then put your mind at ease. You'll find far more posts about people getting hit by lightning or winning the lottery then posts about frame rails, hitches, or shocks snapping from the dynamic stress of a dirt bike carrier when properly installed.
  2. BV1

    Anyone geared-up their RMZ 450 for the road?

    I put together an entire street legal kit for mine, but havn't had a chance to throw it on. Now my wife is pressuring me to sell, doh! I got new plastics, (black) and Acebis headlight, magnet wire #18 for the rewind, brake switch, signal lights, fornt and rear sprocket 13,14,15,16/47, Trailtech Vapour, signal switch for turn lights and headlight, brake lights and plate holder and a few other things to make it street legal... And now Im just looking at it!
  3. BV1

    08 RMZ 450 Gas smell in Oil

    If there is even a little gas in your oil... like 5%... it will be VERY watery. It will have no viscosity. You can tell when your drain it right away. Steve
  4. BV1

    RMX450. Is it here yet?

    The RMZ is 224... The RMX is 272... Sounds about right for a magneto, battery, headlight and electric start plus extras. Steve
  5. LMAO, its like jeaporady, except if your wrong, your bike blows up. Steve
  6. BV1

    08 ran rough & then quit / fuel pump issue

    Yeah Bellec has really helped us out here a few times. Thanks for the info sir! Also Bugalugs, that race looks killer! There was two 2K8 RMZ that made it to the finish according to the results. 500km on a RMZ, talk about a sore butt. Steve
  7. BV1

    Power Commander

    Mark, I am also a tuner, and have been tuning for years with spark plug color, color tune, sound, response etc. I am also a Piano tuner.... and if I can make a comparision... I can tune a piano with a tuning fork and it will sound good, I can also tune it with an electronic tuner and it will sound better. A wideband 02 is perfect at all RPMS, and will catch things even a good plug/ear tuner might miss. Its really that simple, its just more accurrate. Generally, EFI means WB02 and carbs mean plugs/ears and color tuning.... to me anyways. You can make such fine adjustments with EFI that the WB02 helps makes things just perfect. Steve
  8. BV1

    Road a CRF450..

    Keep us posted, Steve
  9. BV1

    Power Commander

    Eddie, can you confirm your map leans out the AFR a bit? I would like to squeeze a few more miles out of the stock tank. If a few more ponies are a side affect of a leaner AFR, I won't complain either. Steve
  10. Was considering doing this with my 04 Pontiac Montana Ext AWD. It does have the air shocks and the AWD, and its a very stiff body. But I already own a 4x8 trailer, just thought a carrier like this would be more efficient to haul it across the country. I'll have to rethink it now. Although... the "sheet metal" argument has nothing to do with anything. A class 2 hitch is a class 2 hitch. Its bolted where it should be bolted, the manufacture has rated it appropriately, and your not going to convince too many people that a ~300 lb dirt bike is going due more damage then a 3500lb trailer with a few hundred lbs of tongue weight bouncing along down the road. This case may require a class 3... its probably the safest bet. However, the fact the weight is extended does not make the bike "weigh" more, total downward force must still remain the same, however it adds upward force of equal value "X # of feet" towards the center of the van. X being the total # of feet between the carrie and center of the bike load. And yes it does act like a lever arm, but in the end all this does is act to reduce loading on the front wheels, but, at ~2000 llbs I'm not too worried. Especially when the van is again fully loaded with trip gear and passenger. I do recognize the validity of the arugment of the lever arm though, and as long as the carrier is not sitting "too" far out (too being the objective word) it shouldnt be an issue. Because if it is "too" far out... then it doesnt matter what kind of vehicle your driving. Your class X hitch will experience "too" much force. My main concerns would be the strength of the hitch, and the durability/spring rate of the rear suspension. If I can stand/bounce on the rear hitch ball (~225 lbs) about 12 inches out from the recepticle with not too much bottoming, it seems good to me. You have to remember that even the "ball" is sitting out a foot from the "hitch" and tonque weight usually refers to weight at that location. You are removing the ball in this application, and adding a carrier, so in reality your only sitting slightly further out then the ball, trailer scenario. I'm going to have to crawl under there and take a peak and make the call for myself. The problem with my last few trips with the trailer is... blowing tires (2 last trip). Limited speed, (due to the small tires, and aerodynamics), reduced mileage, and changing the wheel bearings in the trailer. I realize the "best" way for the van... is the trailer. I need to decide what the best way for myself is.... Steve
  11. BV1

    08 problem starting when hot?

    Starts 1 or 2nd try when hot, cold at least 5 trys.
  12. BV1

    Melted T-fitting & super bummed!!!

    I got the same one from AZ rob, quality little unit. Suzuki skimped in the wrong spot.
  13. BV1

    Melted T-fitting & super bummed!!!

    Az520Rob on this site made some CNC machined T- fittings. I ordered one from him. -Steve
  14. BV1

    Need Advice-08 RMZ450- jumping out of gear

    Probably broke down the oil after 4 hours. Try a change and a reposition, -Steve
  15. Does anyone know if the RMZ450 08-09 Front/Rear sprockets are the same as the previous years RMZ450? (05+) Thank you, -Steve
  16. BV1

    Just got 06 rmz450 $1500

    Agreed, thats the RMZ, -Steve
  17. BV1

    08 seized engine

    ^^ Thats signature material right there
  18. BV1

    08 seized engine

    Bumping this thead to see what other owners have had stuck in their oil screens. How many screens do you check during your oil changes? Was this problem just an original 08 engine issue? Havn't any trouble with my 08 (09 swapped) rmz450. Thanks, -Steve
  19. BV1

    Gear Ratios 08/09

    Just thought some of you would like this. As I am in the process of street tarding my RMZ, I thought it very useful. I entered all the information I could find from the manual, and also some of the dynos I saw posted here. I got this file originally form www.4stroke.com and modified it with the RMZ info. Enjoy: http://www.mts.net/~smpotter/gearing_calc.xls -Steve
  20. BV1

    400 swap for LTR450 fuel injected

    bump for update
  21. Was reading my manual today, noticed on page 20-31 (2008) the following: "Muffler Silenser: 14351-28H00" -Steve PS That is how they spelled it.
  22. BV1

    Going slow on an RMZ450 is not easy!

    Looks fun
  23. BV1

    2008 Rmz450

    Could be EFI troubles.... as in electrical, as in ECU? I mean its obviously mixture troubles, and if the injector is working, the fuel pump is running, the gas is good... then really, it has to be ECU. Or something is shorting out from vibration? -Steve
  24. BV1

    08 RM-Z 1st run oil Q.

    Engines love full synthetic, but a weak spot in friction material will result in clutch slippage on some clutches. For break in, most people use regular mineral oil, and almost all manufactures run mineral oil. Unless of course you drive Corvette/SLK/M5 etc, which come with synthetic from the factory, even during break in. I switched to full synthetic after 2 hours. No issues, if you stay OEM you will be fine. -Steve
  25. BV1

    rmz 450 overheating with high comp

    You will not harm your engine by running high octane fuel. You might hurt it by running Hi octane ethanol / alcohol based fuel. But if you by something like VP racing fuel etc you should be fine. Basically though, all rubber lines, fuel hoses, O-rings etc... since about 1993 or so have been designed to handle Ethanol based fuel. So personally.... I would run 94 Octane 10% Ethanol fuel with a Tolulene additive to bring it up to 96+ and you should be fine. Or you could leave the compression ratio the same and work letting the engine breathe better or cams etc... for more power. If would be a very GOOD thing to understand the basics of detonation before upgrading your compression ratio. http://www.streetrodstuff.com/Articles/Engine/Detonation/ In particular you may like page four of that article: "Engines that are detonating will tend to overheat, because the boundary layer of gas gets interrupted against the cylinder head and heat gets transferred from the combustion chamber into the cylinder head and into the coolant. So it starts to overheat. The more it overheats, the hotter the engine, the hotter the end gas, the more it wants to detonate, the more it wants to overheat. It's a snowball effect. That's why an overheating engine wants to detonate and that's why engine detonation tends to cause overheating." -Steve
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