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Noble last won the day on March 17 2008

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  1. Noble

    Stolen/Recovered DRZ400 Ignition Bypass

    Yes. Red, orange, brown, gray all together. (ON gray is powered by orange and feeds power back to the ignition switch to power brown. In PARK brown is powered directly by red. Gray is kinda the same as orange but without a separate wire the tail light would not be independently powered to allow it to be split off for PARK.)
  2. Noble

    New rear spring for '01 DRZ400e

    Front and rear need to be balanced. If you change the spring rate on the rear you need to also change the front. Also keep in mind spring rate is determined by rider weight, motorcycle weight and the use of the motorcycle. Plus spring rate and damping go hand in hand. 18 year old motorcycle no doubt needs a full review and rebuild of the suspension system. Set up for MX is a lot different than set up for trail use. I suggest you talk to a suspension expert rather than rely on posted tables.
  3. Noble

    Scratch on cam

    Use a very fine file with light pressure or a sharpening stone just to remove any high spots. Don't try to remove the ding. Then polish with 400 grit wet/dry paper using WD40. No need to polish with very fine grit paper. This is a 2 minute job, not a big deal.
  4. Noble

    Scratch on cam

    Yes, polish the cam journal to remove any high spots and replace the bucket tappet.
  5. DRZ400's that have electric starting did not come with a kick lever. Only models with kick starting only came with a kick lever. Yes you can delete the manual cable and handlebar lever although it will make the kick lever less useful when you might actually need it. The manual valve lifter in the head, assuming correctly installed, makes no noise at rest with no cable attached. The automatic compression release on the exhaust cam can make some noise but mostly only if it is broken and not functioning correctly. You had the exhaust cam out to replace the cam chain so you probably have a good idea if that is working right or not.
  6. Noble

    3 Wiring questions, E version

    1. Clutch sensor-The only thing that might be considered a clutch sensor is at the clutch lever. There is a switch in the clutch perch. The clutch lever needs to be pulled to crank the engine. Most people bypass the switch by just connecting the 2 wires that go to the switch together. 2. There is never a switch in the battery negative cable. Yes it connects to the battery and to the engine. The spade connector plugs into the main wiring harness and is a redundant ground. There is a ring terminal from the main wiring harness that grounds to the frame at the ignition coil mount. 3. There are 2 wires to the starter relay. Both are needed. One wire applies power to the relay when the start button is pushed. The other wire goes to ground to complete the circuit. If the wire you are holding in the picture is red, that is the main wire from the battery to the key switch. There is a 30 amp fuse in that circuit between the battery and the key switch. That might be the connector that plugs into the fuse holder.
  7. Noble

    DRZ400 E air box made smaller

    All US and Canadian E models came with the air box "snorkel". It reduced intake noise and allowed the carb to be jetted leaner reducing emissions. US E models also had a different muffler (quieter) than did UK models.
  8. Noble

    drz regulator and stator

    Back to basics. If the motor runs we know the wires to the CDI are correct. No reason to swap black/white, green/blue wires. The only reason connecting the stator 3 yellow charging wires to the RR can affect the motor running is if there is a interconnection between the CDI wires and the yellow charging wires. You say you checked and there were no connections. I have to believe what you tell me but it does not make sense. Start the motor with the yellow wires not connected. Temporarily short any of the yellow wires to ground. If that kills the motor, there is a connection between the yellow wires and the wires to the CDI. If it does not kill the motor, connect the yellow wires to the RR. If that kills the motor, I have no answer.
  9. Noble

    drz regulator and stator

    OK, so new stator and your are in Europe someplace. The stator does 2 things - (a) it generates electrical power to charge the battery and run the motorcycle. (b) it feeds timing information to the ignition to make sparks at the right time. If the motorcycle runs with the 3 yellow stator wires disconnected we know the ignition part of the stator is working. We don't know of the battery charging part works but we don't care yet. Using an ohm meter check for any connection between any yellow wire and any other color wire (green, blue, black, white). If you find any connection, that is the problem. Please report your results.
  10. Listen to Erik, he has been thru this many times. Your motorcycle will run fine just from the battery, but if the battery is not being charged when the motor is running it will soon go flat. So you need to figure out if or why the battery is not being charged. That is pretty simple. Voltage tests and the diagnosis procedure in FAQ should identify the specific problem. Far too many people just replace the RR when there is a charging problem which could be but is seldom the cause.
  11. Noble

    drz regulator and stator

    As stated above. Where are you located? Was the replacement stator new or used? Source? Brand? The usual condition when the motor runs with the stator not plugged in but does not run stator connected is the stator power generating coils are shorted to the Ignition crank position coils. Sometimes this can happen if the wires get pinched on installation. Or it could be a bad stator new or used. Probably noting to do with the regulator.
  12. Noble

    Removing disintegrated counter shaft seal

    If the picture is an accurate representation of the seal in its current state, there is lots of seal left to extract. The rubber seal lip is bonded to the metal case that is still there. You need to pry the metal case out.
  13. Noble

    Removing disintegrated counter shaft seal

    As above. Visit your local auto parts store and buy/borrow a seal remover. The one I'm thinking of kind of looks like a hammer but instead of a hammer head it has a hook on each side of the handle. The hook catches the edge of the seal and levers it out. As Erik says you want to make sure you catch the steel shell of the seal and not the aluminum case.
  14. Noble

    front wheel bearing kit

    I think people were just trying to advise the easiest way out-just buy the needed seal. Now starting from scratch, that works too. Bearing shop can sell you the seal and bearings, they just need to know the sizes.
  15. Noble

    Clicking between chain and front sprocket

    Might be a little bit out of alignment. Sight down the chain from the rear. Some lube will help smooth it out. Chains are all standard width - 1/4" (.250 inch) in this case. Sprockets not so much. Measure the sprocket width that engages the chain. Should be abut .230". Over all it looks OK, probably be just fine.