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  1. Noble

    FMF exhaust issues

    Yea, I would not worry too much about the glowing red header pipe. Normal for any DRZ that idles for a long period. They are all single wall and with no air flow past the pipe it gets red. As for carb tuning it may or may not need any changes based on other changes. 22.5 or 25 pilot jet, will be fine. Needle and clip (if you have the option) so it runs good. Main jet based on air box mods. The header is not Ti. Stick a magnet to it to see if it is stainless. FMF is probably just steel.
  2. As above. You have a method to check for oil delivery. And you have a method to check oil pressure.
  3. I believe there is a small vent in the thermostat. (not sure, some cars/motorcycles there is a vent and some not). Leaning the motorcycle right and left works well to purge air from the system. Adding some coolant to the catch tank gives an easy visual check of coolant in the system after it has been cycled a few times and stabilized.
  4. There are 2 approaches to radiator fill - coolant recovery with a catch tank, and coolant expansion tank. In the recovery system the pressurized system is filled completely and as the coolant expands it is expelled to a catch tank and siphoned back in as the motor cools (Suzuki DRZ400, Toyota, and many others). In the expansion system the pressurized system is not completely filled so there is room for the coolant to expand without being expelled from the pressurized system (Ford truck, VW, KTM and many others). In both systems the intent is to not loose any coolant unless there is sever overheating. It is probably best to stay with whatever system was original to the vehicle. But you could experiment with leaving the coolant a low to leave room for expansion (about 1" in the case of KTM) and see if that works for you. One of the side benefits of the Suzuki recovery system is the ability to visually check the coolant in the catch tank. I like that. Also it is pretty easy to improvise a replacement catch tank of some sort.
  5. Noble

    Why do I keep going through rear wheel bearing?

    My "drive it in with the axle" method would probably be better and satisfy everyone's concerns if I made up a tool - ID axle diameter, OD just under the bearing outer diameter, with a flat face and thickness about 1". First bearing install it would apply force only to the outer race and drive to the shoulder. Second bearing it would apply force only to the outer race until the inner race contacts the center bushing. And with careful install to stop when the spacer is contacted, it wold not load the opposite bearing. DrzDik is right, I'm done too. I think we lost the original poster a long time ago.
  6. Noble

    Why do I keep going through rear wheel bearing?

    All ball bearings have some radial and transverse play. A flat surface can not apply any pressure against the inner race because of this play. Yes, if you are pressing in the opposite side bearing expecting to contact the center spacer, then I suppose it is a good idea so the bearing locates on the inner race against the spacer. But I repeat it is not that critical. Bearings that have room to move will creep to releave excess side load. Say for example you press in the second bearing to contact the center spacer. You have it just right. Perfect in your mind. Install the wheel tighten the axle to 60/70 ft lbs, the center spacer shortens by the modulus of elasticity for aluminum spacer relative to the applied load. Now the bearing is side loaded. But not to worry, it will creep to releave the load. Next time the wheel of off. Turn one of the bearings and I'll bet the bearing on the other side turns with it driven by the friction of the center spacer against the bearing proving one of the bearings has relocated itself. Because this thread is so developed I'll add something a little more controversial. First I'll say it is wrong to press across the balls (pressing the outer race using the inner race. I know that. But this has worked well for me. I'll use a KTM wheel for an example because it has only 1 bearing on each side. Start a bearing on each side with the center spacer in place. Now place the axle thur both bearings (the axle centers because both bearings are started in the bores. The brake side bearing has a snap ring. I pound on the axle using a dead blow hammer from the drive side to drive that bearing to the shoulder. Because the axle apples force evenly the bearing goes in straight and when it contacts the shoulder it is true in the bore. Now I reverse the axle to drive in the brake side. I drive the brake side bearing in until the bearing seats to the shoulder That moves the drive side bearing out a little because the center spacer is longer than the dimension between the hub shoulders. Then I install the snap ring and seals. Both bearings have now been loaded across the balls - kiss of death, right? Doesn't seem to be. Flame me if you like for giving bad advise. Don't follow the procedure if you believe it is bad advise. I will not do this to just any bearing, but wheel bearings it seem to work just fine. Heating the hub first makes install even easier.
  7. Noble

    Heated grip/GPS/12 volt outlet wiring question

    No doubt it has been tested and no doubt it works. The 40W grip heaters pull about 3.5 amps additional to the original load. People use 100 watt headlight bulbs in place of 55/60 and get away with it. But adding any additional load to the orange wire is not recommended by me. For a headlight it is a poor solution. Headlights need voltage to be bright. Add load with a bigger bulb or grip heaters and the headlight will suffer a lower voltage. So I always recommend a separate or upgraded circuit for accessories. Relay makes sense. Control the relay with power from the orange wire. The relay control circuit is very low current draw so the orange wire will support that.
  8. First off there was no DRZ400SM in 2002. If you have an SM style it is a converted E or S. The motor swap has nothing to do with the green wire to the CDI. It is CDI and wire harness compatibility. If you have an S/SM CDI box and S/SM wire harness the green wire in the larger CDI plug needs to be grounded. If you have an E CDI that wire needs to be open circuit. In the E wire harness the wire color is black with yellow trace but same thing - S/SM CDI ground. E CDI open circuit. If you have a consistent spark, the (interlock) wire is not your problem.
  9. Noble

    Why do I keep going through rear wheel bearing?

    This the longest thread on a simple subject I have ever seen. Seems like it has all been covered several times.
  10. Noble

    Why do I keep going through rear wheel bearing?

    If the OP is just going the brake side then yes he is doing it backwards. But it does not make any difference. As noted, the clearance (bearing outer race to hub shoulder can be on either side or both sides. The bearing inner race should contact the center spacer. No clearance. If it does not, then there might be a problem with the position of the 2 bearings on the drive side. Normally I would expect the 2 drive side bearings to "creep" into position but there might be something preventing the creep - friction of 2 bearings vs 1, something in the bore ?? As mentioned before, it is easy to tell when a bearing is seated against the shoulder, the sound is different if using a punch to install. Or if pressing, the force goes up and the bearing does not move. So if there is still slop between the bearing being installed and the center spacer, there is the problem. You might be able to still move the center spacer with your finger but if it rattles around with the bearing seated, that is too much clearance.
  11. The seals are perfectly flat. The drawing is misleading. The groove is tapered which gives the seal a taper when installed.
  12. Noble

    Wiring harness from scratch

    What you want to do is doable but there are easier ways. The DRZ400 uses a 3 phase alternator all converted to DC to charge a battery and run the motorcycle. The ignition needs the DC so right off you need the rectifier/regulator and of course the CDI. Even the DRZ400 that had only a kick starter and no battery from the factory was set up that way. So you can eliminate the battery and substitute a capacitor so the system is set up like the DRZ400 kick start only model. But I agree with above, you are better off using a battery. It can be small and light but it will do a better job of stabilizing the system than a capacitor, it will fill in at low engine speeds to power lights and ignition and the bike will start easier using the kick starter. You can eliminate the starter motor and the wires for that. You could begin with a DRZ400E wire harness but building a harness from scratch is not hard either. You do need a regulator/rectifier, CDI, small battery, switches, wires, lights, connectors, etc.
  13. Noble

    Why do I keep going through rear wheel bearing?

    turbo dan - The length of the internal spacer for motorcycle wheel ball bearings is always longer than the dimension between the shoulders in the hub. Typically 0.5mm. So the clamping force of the axle is transmitted tru the seal collars, bearing inner races, and the center distance piece. The outer race essentially floats in the hub so the bearings never see significant side force. There are ball bearings made to take thrust loads but not ball bearing wheel bearings. As clamped by the axle, the center spacer is not loose. It sees the full clamp compressive load of the axle nut. The outer race of the wheel bearing will creep in the hub bore so as not to sustain side loads if three is clearance for it to move in the hub. As previously stated one side the bearing is against the shoulder, the other side has clearance to the shoulder. The distance between the bearings is determined by the length of the center spacer not the hub. As an extreme example, KTM redesigned their hub so the clearance between the bearing on 1 side and the shoulder is 3.5mm. This was done to make room for a centering ring that uses up the space, but some hubs use the centering spacer and some omit it. Makes no difference. Clearance is clearance as long as it is enough.
  14. Noble

    CV carbs, how do they work

    Over simplified to the point of being incorrect. Does not explain the vacuum slide at all, (why is there a vacuum slide and what affects it's opening), choke circuit is incorrect, (it also has an air bleed for the fuel and air mixed with the air/fuel mix), the low speed mixture screw is in the wrong location (it is after the air bleed mixes with the fuel from the idle jet). Ah but it is the internet it must be right!!
  15. Well you have your opinion, I have mine. Have you ever actually repaired stripped cam cap threads? I have and the recommended approach works extremely well and can often prevent the need for Helicoil repairs. The fact is repeated tightening of the cam cap bolts to spec or near or above spec can cause the threads to fail. Getting more threads prior to actual stripping is work but less work than repair later on. Unless ham fisted, breaking a tap us unlikely. The tap drill hole is already there it just needs more threads. M6x1,0 bottom taps are sturdy enough I don't think breakage is a big concern. Air or even WD40 will blow the chips out of the holes and some care with rags will keep chips out of the motor. But maybe it is more about what I'm comfortable doing than what others are. Obviously it is a choice. What is the simpler solution? Put the bolts on the correct places? OP said he already did that. I have to accept that he did and suggested he verify that first.