paulschauer

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About paulschauer

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  1. Started the bike up to test for air leaks. Sprayed carb cleaner all over the intake boots to carb connections and the air boot to air filter assembly, I also sprayed the air screw. I didn't get a change in idle doing any of this. Next just for the hell of it I removed the air screw to check the o-ring. I looked ok to me but I cleaned everything up and put a little Belray grease on the air screw and the o-ring and put it back in. I also put a 50 pilot in. At the same time I loosened the throttle cable slightly just go get a little more slack on the cable. Started the bike back up and I swear the slightly hanging idle is gone or virtually gone. ...ok... Did I find the air leak!?! Was it maybe the air screw? I slightly tight throttle cable? To be safe I ordered up a air screw kit, it should arrive in a few days, in the meanwhile I'm going to see how the bike runs as it is but probably not until Friday or Saturday.
  2. I'm going to put a 50 pilot in the carb tonight so I'll test at least for the throttle binding and air leaks. As far as the suggestions from folks go: Leak down test - Yah, I wish I did it again after I put the bike together. When I did the test before tearing the bike apart there was a leak on the PV shaft and on my tester itself but couldn't find anything else. I can JB Weld the leak source on the tester to get rid of that leak and put grease on the PV shaft to eliminate that leak source. I'm pretty confident there'd be zero leaks after I did both of those. Throttle Cable Binding - The throttle snaps back like it should, if it's binding it would be very minor but I'll try checking this out. Spraying for air leaks - Just to confirm, when you spray for leaks are you spraying at the boot to carb junctions? Do you also spray where the other side of the boot where it connects to the air filter assembly? Regardless I'll try spraying with WD40 the boot to carb connections and the air screw itself since a leak down test doesn't test any of these. Also, it's worth noting I've replaced the boot to carb hose clamps with some aircraft hose clamps(from Aircraft Spruce), don't think I'm getting a leak there, but I'll find out.
  3. Yah, I agree the pilot is way big. The more I think about it I should just put in a smaller pilot, I have 50, 48 and I think 45 sitting around and it's not like it makes a difference with the slight hanging idle. From what I've found online about needles I think these are the needles from leanest to richest: N89 - Leanest N3C N3E N8R - Richest Needle Diameter from leanest to richest: K - Leanest J W H G - Richest The more I'm reading about needles online I'm thinking of going from the N3EW I have now to something like a N3CH or N89H. To get a leaner clip position with 'N3C' or 'N89' and a slightly thinner diameter needle 'H" which might help with the slightly hanging idle. Anyhow, hoping for folks to give their $.02
  4. Had the head gasket go out and center powervalve break on my EG295 after ~35 hrs. The center powervalve breaking ended up jamming up one of the side power valves with a piece of center powervalve metal, this damaged the link rod and pulleys too. Replaced the following - center powervalve, link rod, pulleys, piston, rings, wristpin bearing, gaskets(sealed the gaskets with copper spray - this was advice from a local shop to help with gasket sealing), reeds(using stock reeds). Before I pulled the engine apart I did a leak down test and found no leaks. Also did a compression test before and after doing the top end with rented Autozone and Oreilly's compression testers and got 210 lbs before on both and 210 after with the Autozone tester but kicking the bike over now feels like the bike has way more compression. Ring gap is spec for the 72mm piston, forget what I measured though. Did a thorough carb clean while the engine was apart. EG295 is mobetta for pump gas, I've been using Shell 91, being in CA it has 10% ethanol. I mix the oil at ~36:1 using RedLine. Timing is stock. Current Carb settings: Main - 175 Needle - N3EW - #1 groove Pilot - 52 Power - 50 Air Screw - 1/2 out Float - ~7mm Slide - #8 I'm doing my jetting at ~500' but most of my riding is ~1000'-3000'. I have 2 questions I'm looking for advice on: Needle When I took the bike out after I put everything back together I had the Needle on #3 groove, the bike ran like crap and was spewing oil everywhere. Changed to #2 groove bike ran better, but sill crappy. Changed to the #1 groove bike runs good, but would like to adjust the needle by leaning more. The N3CW needle would get me 1/2 groove leaner at the #1 groove, but where would I go from there to try leaner settings since I'd be at the top of that Needle's adjustment. The Needle nomenclature is crazy to me, getting a better idea from the Suzuki Needle thread that's going on in the Yamaha 2-Stroke forum, but still not clear to me where I'd go from N3CW for groove position only. Pilot Since I can remember this bike has had a slight hanging idle when I shut off going back to idle. I've tried to correct this by turning in the air screw when I used a 50 pilot, changed to a 52 pilot and have the air screw in what seems the same amount with what seems to be the same amount of slightly hanging idle. Turning the air screw out definitely makes the hanging idle worse. Bike off idle isn't super crisp like I'd want. To me it seems like maybe I'd want to try a slightly more narrow needle to maybe cure the slightly hanging idle? N3xH? Have a race this weekend at ~3000' would like to try to tune the carb a little more but looking for advice what needle/pilot to try out.
  5. Here's a pic of my 2011 YZ250 cases when I was replacing all the bearings, the 2011 engine is essentially the same as the 2005. I used OEM bearings and seals, don't see a sealed bearing on the one next to the kickstarter gear. I think that bearing is what the output shaft rides on? I know the output shaft has a seal next to the bearing on the other case, right next to the countershaft sprocket. I also don't have the manual handy of the cases in front of me, so I don't know if it makes sense for the bearing to be sealed? Maybe might need to give Hot Rods a call.
  6. Bearings in a freezer and put the cases in the oven at 300 degrees. The bearings go in with minimal help needed.
  7. Building your own leak down tester and doing the test yourself is way easy. All the parts cost maybe $20 total, check out this thread - http://www.thumpertalk.com/topic/1103471-leak-down-tester-from-hf/?hl=%2Bleak+%2Bdown+%2Btest#entry11882890
  8. The brass part of the petcock is press fitted in. The day before a ride I went out to the garage and found a huge puddle of gas which was from a leaky petcock. When I tried to take the fuel line off to take the tank off the bike the brass part came right out of the petcock along with the fuel line. I ordered a new petcock, but didn't want a pesky petcock to make me miss out on a day of riding. So I JB Welded that brass part back and crossed my fingers it would hold up. I held up fine, would have been interesting if it still fell off, got the new petcock the next week and now have a spare JB Welded petcock in my toolchest.
  9. Check out the last post in this thread, there's a link with a solid write up on how to replace the seals - http://www.thumpertalk.com/topic/1104101-2011-yz250-waterpump-leak/?hl=%2Bwaterpump#entry11887329
  10. Have the Q Stealth with my 2011 YZ295. The pilot is still stock which is #50, went down one size from stock with the Main, and then leaned out the needle by 2 positions(whatever direction that is). Don't know if this is because of the engine being a 295 or running the Q Stealth. Either way, it was pretty easy to figure out the jetting using the sticky at the top of the forum.
  11. With the 3.1 IMS I have I didn't have to mess with the shrouds at all to get them to fit, but the top of the shroud fit kinda sucks. The way the tank curves at the top, where the top bolt for the shroud is, makes the shroud stick out a bit, you don't get caught up in or anything but, its more annoying looking than anything. The 3.9 Clarke that I have the shrouds fit like OEM. Annoying, all these tanks seem to have their pluses and minues.
  12. TrailRider24, I've raced with an IMS 3.1(the fit kinda sucks) and my current Clarke 3.9(impossible to move forward to weight the front end) with both setups I've come real close to running out of gas, this is with a YZ295(horrible mileage) and on the gas pretty good. Going over bumps and stuff the gas kinda splashes evenly between the 2 sides, so you'd have to really be literally out of gas to have some gas stuck only on the non-petcock side. If you're races are 90 min any of the 3.1 tanks(IMS, TipTy, Acerbis, Clark) would probably give you plenty of gas, all the tanks have their pluses and minuses, you'll have to decide what fits your needs(ie, plug access versus fit and finish).
  13. I'm right around the corner from you in Fremont, your bike looks pretty sweet, being an 02 in CA you should be able to sell it pretty quick. My buddy has a 02 YZ250 which he got plated.
  14. For a pressure tester check out this thread - http://www.thumpertalk.com/topic/1103471-leak-down-tester-from-hf/?hl=%2Bleak+%2Bdown+%2Btest#entry11882890 In post #10 I give a parts list, in total I think it cost ~$20 for me to build it, there's also a link to a pic of the finished tester.
  15. I just ordered and installed a CoreEXP 2.0 (the whole clutch assembly, not just the expanding ring) from Rekluse, I'm also running Rekluse friction plates. When I was talking to the Rekluse guy on the phone about the 2.0 versus 3.0 difference it sounded like they make some updates to the inner basket to improve oil flow and the expanding ring was updated to improve wear resistance. When I bought the 2.0 they included a 3.0 expanding ring, looking at the two rings the weights in the 3.0 are different, the rest looks pretty much the same from what I could tell. The Rekluse guy said to run the 2.0 ring until it wore out after 200 hrs or so then use the 3.0 ring. Would think the CoreEXP and EXP expanding rings would be the same part. If you want the EXP 3.0 you'd probably have to order it straight through Rekluse. Running the CoreEXP 2.0 with Shell Rotella 15W-40(diesel oil), compared to my CoreEXP 1.0 it's noisier but not that big of a deal, have read in other Thumpertalk Rekluse forums that using other oils like Maxima helps with the noise.