bikenband

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About bikenband

  • Rank
    TT Member

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    California
  • Interests
    Anything with 2 wheels dirt or pavement. That includes bicycles too. Motorcycles owned: 2002 Honda CRF450, 2000 Suzuki SV650, 1995 Harley Davidson Road King.
  1. I was in your exact position with my '02. I did all the research, comparisons, read all the posts, and went with a Big Bore Thumpers complete new head w/stainless steel valves. No sending your head back and forth, no down time, no muss no fuss, just bolt it on. I have over 40 hours on it now and the valves have not moved. And at $549 it really is the way to go.
  2. The '02 head pipe will fit right onto the '08 head with no issues.
  3. Go to ebay and type in "CRF450 Top End Kit" hundreds of choices. I would be surprised if you can't find a kit that suits your needs there. If you can't, order whatever piston you like, then order the gasket set separately. As for the head I went with Big Bore Thumpers complete head package for $575. It's a great deal and you'll have way more time to ride since you won't be fiddling with those valves anymore. Oh, and absolutely do hone the cylinder. My local shop did it for $10.
  4. UPDATE! Got the bike all buttoned up in March of 2013 using the '08 Big Bore Thumpers head. Bike now has 30 hours on it and runs EXCELLENT. Valves have not moved and I'm very happy with my decision. The '08 head does seem to have a bit more bottom end and I don't feel any loss at the top.
  5. Yes, it sounds like the rubber cushions on the back of your clutch basket are failing. The thick, gray tranny oil (with little shards of rubber mixed in) are pretty good indicators. Pull the clutch cover, grasp the basket and see if it spins back and forth, accompanied by a clunking or knocking sound (if they are REALLY bad). You may also be hearing this sound at idle and low rpm's. I went the easy route and just ordered a new OEM clutch basket, as it comes ready to bolt in with nothing to grind or press in, etc. The next question I would ask is do you do a lot of low speed trail/woods riding? If so, this can make your bike run hot due to not getting enough air flow through the radiators. This is bad for those rubber cushions and causes them to break down much quicker. Check your coolant level after every ride, if it needs constant topping off its an indication the bike is running hot and expelling coolant out of the radiator overflow hose. There are many fixes for this: engine ice coolant, 2.0 bar radiator cap, larger radiators.
  6. When I did my top end I took the cylinder to a local shop and had them hone it for $10. Way cheaper than buying your own ball hone and really, how many times are MOST of us going to use that tool? When installing the piston, I went with the "best of both worlds" method. I poured some oil onto a paper towel, wiped down the cylinder, then rewiped it with a dry paper towel. Oil is still retained in the crosshatch. I broke it in correctly and have had no issues.
  7. I installed a Big Bore Thumpers head with SS valves 9 months ago. I felt no difference in performance and the valves have not moved after over 20 hours. Oh, and I ride fast.
  8. Try the easiest route first. Sounds like possibly some cam chain noise going on so check the cam chain slack (there shouldn't be any) and the tensioner. My '02 also had a WICKED knock at low RPM, but the knock would go away when I revved the motor. It turns out the knock was coming from the clutch basket. The rubber dampers on the back of the basket were completely gone. My trans oil was black and thick from the dampers being eaten up and mixed in. Pull off the clutch cover and grasp the clutch basket. Does it move back and forth and "knock?" If it does, those rubber dampers are toast and that will make a lot of noise at low RPM, especially at idle.
  9. Probably the most versatile motorcycle ever made. Commuting, touring, canyon carving, track days, this bike can do it all depending on how you set it up. Mine is a 2000 unfaired model that I bought for canyon riding. The best part was the guy I bought it from was an ex-racer and he had already done some good stuff to it: Ohlins shock, emulators up front, and a full Yoshimura exhaust. After commuting and canyon carving on the thing for a couple of years, I decided to get back into track riding. It was clear after a track day that the stock upright bars were not going to cut it, so I swapped them out for some lower bars made by Suburban Machinery. This is the best handling road bike I've ever owned and it has no problem staying with the 600's on the track, which is where it gets ridden 99% of the time now.
  10. I know this is an old post but maybe this can help someone who did a search for "Popping SV". Mine is a 2000 that I use primarily for track days (2-3 per year). It started popping when the revs would hit about 4000 rpm. I too thought I had a leaky exhaust system as I had recently installed a new Yoshimura system. After checking every inch of my exhaust system I could not find any leaks. It turns out that due to the bike sitting so long between rides, the rear carb had gotten a little clogged/gummy. FIX: I removed the air cleaner, which is held in place by 4 screws (no need to remove the whole air box), warmed up the bike, revved it up to about 8000 rpm constant, and covered the intake throat of the front carburetor at the same time...still popping. Did the same with the rear carburetor and....popping gone! Whatever was causing the clog was sucked through by the vacuum effect. PLEASE NOTE: I did not cover the carb with my hand; that would not be fun if the thing backfired. I used a round 2 1/2 pound weight with the hole in the middle duct taped shut. Whatever you use make sure it is clean and not something that can come apart and get sucked into your cylinder. So what did I learn from all this? Start (and ride) your bike more often and maybe use a little Sta-Bil in the tank. Doing more track days would help too. Heh heh, I'll run that one by the wife......
  11. I just finished a complete rebuild on my '02, I used green LocTite on all of the seals. 10 hours on the bike (including about 2 hours of wide open in the desert) and no problems. Only use a little like the video said and get them in nice and even. A little tap with a seal driver doesn't hurt either.
  12. Just finished a rebuild on my '02 using the Big Bore Thumpers head. It was a good deal, made things easy, and the motor feels awesome. As Shawn said, do hone the cylinder. My local shop did it for $10, good for peace of mind.
  13. Yes Dutch is correct but don't do what I did last weekend: The thrust washers on the very ends of the transmission shafts go in with the chamfered sides facing TOWARD the gears. I put them in backwards...... I didn't realize I had it wrong until I had the entire bottom end buttoned up, external shift mechanism, oil pump assembly, and all. New center case gasket ordered, halves coming back apart next weekend
  14. Before you go digging into your motor, check the clutch basket. Pull the clutch cover off the right side of the motor, grab your clutch basket and rapidly move it back and forth (clockwise/counterclockwise). If it clicks or knocks it probably means the rubber dampers on the back are worn out. There are many ways to fix this but easiest is to order a new OEM clutch basket, or "clutch outer set" as they call it.
  15. Check your clutch basket. Pull the right side crankcase cover off and move the clutch basket back and forth. If you feel alot of free play accompanied by metal to metal knocking noises, that means the rubber dampers on the back of your clutch basket are worn out.