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      JUST IN!   04/24/2018

      HOW TO: 4-STROKE PISTON REPLACEMENT DONE RIGHT!

Fariborz

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About Fariborz

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    TT Member

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  • Location
    California
  1. I bought a Gel seat and it was too short for my height. I only had it on my bike for one ride. I did not feel much of a difference between the gel seat and the stock seat comfort wise. If anyone is looking for a GEL seat just send me a PM. I am sure we can work something out that is acceptable to both of us. -Fariborz
  2. I have one of these: http://www.gregsmithequipment.com/Motocross-Lift-p/ht1007.htm it works great. I can lift my bike close to 30" off the ground. If you are looking at a table lift check their other products: http://www.gregsmithequipment.com/Motorcycle_Lifts_s/2.htm -Fariborz
  3. You should note that not all controllers for heated clothing, grips and gloves are the same. The rheostat type, use a variable resistor to control the current draw. What that means is that the overall system draws the same amount of current at all the settings. At some settings most of the current is wasted by the rheostat and turned into heat in the variable resistor. On other settings more current is sent to the heating element. A more efficient system will modulate between "on" and "off". It changes the "on" duration based on the setting. During the "off" setting no current is wasted. When the system is "on", all the current is used by the heating element. Heat Troller is such a device. Here is a blurb from their web site: ***************************************************************************************** It Ain't No Rheostat! So, just what is the Heat-troller™, heated clothing controller? The Heat-troller™ is a DC (direct current), power controller designed for heated clothing, blankets, pads and other heated products that are powered by a battery. You can think of the Heat-troller™ as a dimmer switch for your heated products. It has a positive off and provides a full range of heat that is constant at any setting, just as a light dimmer switch gives you constant light at different levels. The Heat-Troller is a pulse-width modulated controller with a 1 second cycle time. That means that over a 1 second period, the power is turned on from about 10% to 100% of the time, adjustable with the knob on the controller. When the power is turned on, full power is applied to the load. In the example given, if the heated grip are 16 Watts each and the Heat-Troller is adjusted to 50%, the grips will get 16 Watts for half a second, then no power for half a second, giving an average of 8 Watts of power. The Heat-Troller is more efficient than a rheostat because it makes very little wasted heat when turned on. For two 16 Watt grips, the Heat-Troller makes less than 0.1 Watts of heat at 50%. A rheostat would make about 16 Watts of wasted heat at the same 50% setting. ***************************************************************************************** Here is direct link to that article: http://www.warmnsafe.com/heat-troller_FAQ.php#1 -Fariborz
  4. Guys, Thanks for the info and the picture. The rear view picture is particularly helpful. Thanks again, -Fariborz
  5. Well done Ben and thanks. -Fariborz
  6. I have two questions regarding TC's Denali Rack for the DR650SE. I did search all the archived posts and ADV posts and even Turbo City's Denali Page but could not find an answer to my questions. http://www.turbocity.com/product_info.php?cPath=69_78&products_id=638 People who have the Denali rack: 1) Are the side racks permanently connected to the top rack? In another words, can one remove the top rack and still keep the side racks or vice versa? Turbo City's web page is kind of vague about this but it hints that the two might be one unit and not two separate mounting units. 2) Are the side racks symmetrical? The side panel over the muffler on the right sticks out further than the side panel on the left side of the pack, I was wondering if the right side side racks sticks out further than the left side. If you have a rear view picture of the rack I will greatly appreciate if you can post one up. Thanks in advance, -Fariborz
  7. Send me a PM and we go from there. -Fariborz
  8. I have a set of DR350 foot pegs. What dimensions do you need? -Fariborz
  9. OK my problem was very simple. I decided to check all my connectors and the first bullet connector on the clutch lever switch where it was connected the main harness was pulled out. Put it together and the bike now starts fine. BTW, the two diodes that I got from Radioshack work fine as a replacement to the diodes on the harness and cost only 80 cents compared to the $10 that the dealer wanted for them. Hammock, look at 3rd reply in this thread: http://www.thumpertalk.com/forum/showthread.php?t=671713&highlight=Electrical+connectors+plug+source -Fariborz
  10. Thanks Ga-Thump, that thread was very informative. GrandPa, I made sure the diodes were put on the right orientation. I have not yet checked with the sidestand up and clutch lever pulled in but will try that. Bergman, if I short the two power terminals on the starter relay (battery to starter) the starter works. I removed the connector from the relay and discovered I did not have differential voltage between the control terminals of the relay, meaning something in the safety circuitry was preventing the power to be supplied to the relay. There are only few switched and two relays that control the power to the starter and one of them is not working right. I am sure I can eventually figure it out. My only concern was if anything (i.e. the CDI unit) was damaged because of the blown diodes. -Fariborz
  11. While working on my bike, I blew one of the diodes in the harness. This particular set of diodes (two of them) are part of the neutral-switch/side-stand/clutch-lever safety circuitry that does not allow the starter to run if one of the switches is not activated. The dealer said it will take 7 to 10 days to order the part. I went ahead and replaced the diodes with two diodes from Radioshack. With the diodes out of the connector, starter will not run and the neutral light will also not go on. When I replaced the diodes, I measured the voltage drop across the good diode and replaced bot of the diodes with similar diodes. Now the neutral light works on my bike with the replacement diodes but the starter button does not do anything. Before taking things apart to see what switch does not work properly, can anyone tell me what can get damaged if one or both diodes were damaged? I looked at the schematic and it does not look anything should be affected but somehow something is. Thanks in advance, -Fariborz
  12. Ben, Count me in. I can PayPal or send you a money order. You can PM me directly if you need to. Best, -Fariborz
  13. The clutch cable is supposed to go between the speedo and the front headlight fairing with one smooth loop with no kink. From your description it is currently routed properly but if there is a kink in the cable you need to figure out what has caused it. In general the longer the loop the smoother the cable will operate. If the cable has to make a sharp angle change the metal cable will start wearing the cable cover from the inside. All the small pieces will then get jammed inside the plastic cover tube and will start binding the cable. -Fariborz
  14. Paul, Your fuel lines will get hardened with heat and will then crack. On my old DR350, I put an Acerbis tank that had a similar configuration as yours with 2 petcocks. I ran the line from the right side all way back and made a loop behind the carb and not in front of the carb. This allowed the line to go straight and get much further away from the cylinder head and the exhaust. The two petcocks on my bike, had ON-OFF-RES and did not require any vacuum. I simply capped off the vacuum port on the carb. Having one vacuum operated petcock and one standard petcock joining before the carb does not make too much sense. Was the vacuum operated petcock on the tank when you bought it or did you take from your old tank? -Fariborz
  15. I have a service manual. I wanted something small to carry on the bike. -Fariborz