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sorenlaf

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About sorenlaf

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    TT Bronze Member

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    California
  1. I've used jb weld with very good success, though not in this application, but I think 81husky has the correct idea: HAVE IT TIG WELDED.
  2. sorenlaf

    What was Scott USA thinking...?

    What it means is that since you could not come up with a way to attack my comments, you fabricated a different argument (unless the boots actually come with a giant dick on them), pretended it was my argument, and attacked that instead. Textbook strawman argument, obvious to anyone familiar with the concept.
  3. sorenlaf

    K&n OFF ROAD FILTERS

    Actually, they pass dirt into any engine. They're the very last thing I'd use on a dirtbike.
  4. sorenlaf

    splicing wires

    Good advice, particularly about not forgetting the put the shrink tubing on first... I'll add a little. 1) If possible, use a soldering iron with an iron clad tip, they're worth the $5 in both tip life and ease of use. 2) keep a wet sponge or papertowl nearby to wipe the tip on and clean off the oxidized solder. The tip should be shiny when you start to use it. 3) For the solder to flow properly, the wire must be clean. This means your hands must be clean too. If the wire isn't shiny copper, the solder probably isn't going to flow well. If you have greasy dirt on your hands, it's going to get on the wire. Go wash up first. 4) The solder is not to replace a strong mechanical connection, it's to seal out air and water. Twist the wires together, or hook them back in the previously described double fishhook, then solder over the mechanical connection. I prefer twisting together for splicing wires for two reasons: 1) contact area is larger and 2) joint is usually smaller in diameter. Twisting is probably not as strong, but is this is a wiring harness, not a structural member. 5) You need to heat the wire until the solder melts on it, or you will get a "cold solder" joint. These look crystaline, instead of smooth. 6) You will need to clean then "tin" the tip of the iron by melting a little solder on it. The small amount of solder on the iron "wets" it and greatly enhances the heat transfer to the wire and heats the wire much faster than just holding a dry iron to the wire. 7) You do not need a lot of solder. Once the wires are covered, you're done. Big gobs of solder do not add anything except weight. 8) A 40 watt iron is a good general purpose iron. Anything smaller will not heat the wire fast enough, and the insulation may start melting. Anything larger usually get's kind of unwieldly.
  5. sorenlaf

    Help w/trail bike purchase?

    I have a '95 JT250. Only trials bike I've owned, so there's nothing to compare it to, but I love it. IIRC, I paid $2250 about 2001. I'm not sure if you should buy newer or not. Probably depends on how much you think you'd notice the differences. I'd suggest going and riding both before deciding.
  6. sorenlaf

    want to start racing, help please

    Agreed. The race organizers will be your best (only?) source for accurate information. As rhino said: be sure to mention that you are a minor. Specifically ask if your parents need to be there. Beyond that, I don't know what you take with you (tools, spares, comfort stuff) when you go riding, but take all that for racing AND if you have one, bring an ez-up. Generally, there's lots more sitting around racing than day riding, and shade is often really, really good to have. ez-up, folding chairs, lots of water/gatoraid, and a cooler. Yeah, it's only February, but it's still nice to get out of the sun and sit down. Your young enough that your memory may work better than mine, but I have resorted to a checklist when I pack for a race weekend.
  7. Hey, you were the one that said lots of 4 strokes would podium if classes were based on displacment. I simply contested that in a somewhat sarcastic manner. You're now introducing a red herring that has nothing to do with anything I said. BTW, it's clear that the reason 4 strokes were given an unreasonable displacement advantage (and if you know anything about 2st vs. 4st volumetric efficiency you know there were) was to eliminate 2 strokes. There's no doubt in my mind that this was politically motived by the EPA or some other body. I'd better say it explictly: I'm not saying this is a bad thing, nor am I claiming some guvmet conspiracy, but I am saying there were non-technical reasons for the class/displacment rules and those reasons were clearly to give the 4 strokes an advantage. There was no attempt at parity.
  8. Thanks for clearing that up. It certainly explains what 250cc 2 strokes race against 250cc 4 strokes. Oh, wait. Never mind.
  9. sorenlaf

    What was Scott USA thinking...?

    You get a chance to learn something today. google "strawman argument"
  10. sorenlaf

    Reason for piston replacement

    Horse first, cart second. The engine would have a bad piston due to being overheated.
  11. You know what else? When two strokes became dominant, they didn't need rules giving them a 80% to 100% displacment advantage. Sure, 4 stroke mx bikes are old new. The only new news is that the rules give them a huge advantage. How many 4 strokes do you think you'd see on the podium if the classes were only by displacement?
  12. sorenlaf

    What was Scott USA thinking...?

    This whole thread is kind of amazing. A lot of talk about how ugly the boots are, but little or no discussion about how the fit, feel, or what protection they provide. I musta logged into the little girls TT by mistake. I mean, where else would the talk revolve about how a pair of shoes look? Maybe you girls would be more accepting if they came in pink? I like a bunch of things about them: 1) smooth exterior, little or no seams or protrusion to catch on anything. 2) haven't tried them on, but entry/exit looks good from the pics. 3) they break down for cleaning - yeah, a bunch of us could bennefit from that 4) they look like they'd provide good support and impact protection Ugly? They look like a dirt bike boot. Ask me if I care how they look.
  13. sorenlaf

    In the event of someone being hurt

    I'm not as knowledgable as some that have posted, but I've taken a number of red cross first aid and cpr classes over the years, including a motorcycle specific class that Doc Wong put on 4-5 years ago. Let me cover some of the basics. I'll try to put this in order of importance, but there is some overlap. 0) If the guy is not in imminent danger, just try to get a paramedic there to deal with it. Not in imminent danger means he's: concious, responding normally to questions, knows what day it is, is not repeating himself, is not bleeding badly, etc. Otherwise... 1) This one's important. Don't cause additional harm. I'll be coming back to to this later. 2) Assess the situtataion. Is the rider in danger where he is? If not, don't be in a hurry to move him. If he's really hurt, don't move him at all. If you're on a trail, take off YOUR helmet, walk back up the trail and leave your helmet on the ground NEXT TO the trail 100 feet or so away. This is a common signal (where I live) that there's a rider down ahead. It doesn't mean "free helmet..." 3) Is he concious? If not, don't remove his helmet unless you have to. 4) Is he breathing? If not, you probably have to remove his helmet, as he'll die in 4 minutes if you don't. How do you tell if he's breathing? Listen. Get your ear very close and you can hear and feel him breath. Take your helmet off to do this, not his (if possible). 5) If you have to remove a helmet, you really need two people. One to stabalize the neck in its current position, if at all possible, the other to CAREFULLY remove the helmet WITHOUT torquing the neck. If you're by yourself, do what you can, but again, don't remove the helmet unless you have to. 6) Is he bleeding? If so, how much or how badly. Spurting blood is arterial and much more dangerous than seeping blood. Control bleeding with direct pressure on the wound. Don't press harder than you have to, but if it's not stopping, try pressing harder. Next choice is indirect pressure, but to do this you need to know where the arteries are (take a good first aid class). Do NOT use a tourniquet unless (1) the bleeding is serious (like he's lost enough to fill a shoe), (2) it's not stopping and, (3) you cannot control it any other way. If you do use a tourniquet there is a very good chance that the limb will have to be amputated later. Do not loosen the touniquet as that may send blood clots to the heart or brain causing a heart attack or stroke. If you have to make a tourniquet, use something wide and soft like a belt, not something like a shoelace, but remember. Don't use a tourniquet. For some reason, lots of people want to tie ropes around bleeding limbs, but it's almost never necessary. 6b) If possible, elevate the part of the body that's bleeding. 7) Broken bones - open fracture. If bone ends are exposed, keep them wet if possible. If water is clean enough to drink, it's clean enough to wet bones. Don't get spit on the bone ends as it may cause an infection. Use the camelback from the guy that doesn't backwash AND pour from the fill part, not the mouth tube. If the bone ends are dirty, rinse them off, but don't mess with them. It's very important to avoid a bone marrow infection, as the only treatment is agressive amputation. 8) Broken bones - closed fracture. Obvious deformity is the best indicator. Doctrine is to "splint them as they lay." Not always possible. 9) Shock. Injuried people, particularly bleeding people, often go into shock. Look for pale, clammy skin. Shock tends to restrict blood flow, so people get cold, clammy, and shaky. Keep them warm (not hot, more to maintain body temperature) and have them lie down. 10) Heat stroke/exhaustion. These are different, but I forget which is which. One is just too hot, but sweating normally. The other is a failure of your body to sweat. IIRC, treatment is the same. Cool down. Get out of the sun. Drink water. Wet skin if possible to aid cooling, particularly if they're all red and not sweating. 11) Concussions. Sometimes these are hard to spot. A friend once hit his head and initially seemed normal. After he said the same thing to me 3 or 4 times over 10-15 mintues, I asked if he remembered that he'd already told me that. He didn't, but he did keep repeating himself. Eye's looked normal (I think, this was 30+ years ago), but his short term memory was only about 5 mintues. My friend came out of it about an hour later, but never remembered that hour. If your buddy bangs his head and says he's okay, give him something to remember (like a number) and ask him what it is in 10 minutes or so. If he can't remember, riding's over and be sure he sees a doctor asap. None of this is a substitute for a good first aid class or emt training. BTW, if anyone more knowledgeable has additions or corrections to anything I've posted, post add them.
  14. sorenlaf

    What do you guys think?>

    I'd start with a non-shifter kart, unless you've already got kart racing experience. I looked into this pretty seriously about 10 years ago, then they closed the track near where I lived. My experience road racing is that the first year or so is spent learning how to drive/ride and there's no point in spending the money on a really high performance machine. The money's much better spent on track time. Look at a KT100 kart first, then move up as you learn. According to a friend of a friend that races a 125 shifter, he gets 1-2 weekends out of a piston, and that's just the beginning of the expenses.
  15. sorenlaf

    Molybdenum Disulfide grease

    Absolutely correct on the grease vs. paste. Two comments. 1) they are NOT interchangable. 2) the dow corngin gN assembly lube is a direct replacement for honda moly 60 (60% mds)
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