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tx246

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About tx246

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  1. Well, we leakdown tested at 4%. Valve clearances were getting tight so I slipped in the appropriate shims. I did add a piece of copper pipe with two extra clamps to the tool kit in order to make a hose repair if needed.
  2. Noble, We are trucking the bikes to McDermit NV and riding the TAT going backwards. When we get to the CDT, we are hanging a right and heading south to our pickup point in southern NM. Extra shift seal. Ive had those things start leaking at the most inopportune time and when it does, its hard to keep oil in the motor. The bike already has a Clarke tank, skidplate, rad guards, and hand guards. Im debating on switching out the renthal for something heavier like a protaper. Im putting on wide footpegs so I can stand more comfortably. Great ideas keep em coming. Would still like to hear more about how long a stock top end lasts.
  3. Just a note to let you know Eddie that the rebuild did end and just wanted to thank you. The motor is healthy enough to run with the new 450 quads that have been modified.
  4. It does have the high speed/compression/rebound adjustments. It just seems this spring/shock combo is stiffer than the one that was originally on it. Ive got sag at 4 inches but I cant remember what the top out measurement is. I do know there is some measure of upward fender movement with the bike minus the rider.
  5. Ok. It is bone stock and I dont dog it....much. Doesnt burn oil and runs great. Im just going to be a long way from home and dont want anything to ruin the ride. If I shouldnt be doing a top end, then what should I be replacing/inspecting for a ride of this magnitude? We plan on doing 2400 miles in 12 Days. Things I plan on doing. Inspect clutch Stator locktite New chain and sprockets New brakes New wheel bearings Back up clutch cable Spoke tension New tires Manual adjust cam chain Check valve clearances New filter with skins Service shock Will carry extra shift seal Oil change Go over all wiring and dielectric grease all connectors after cleaning Service swingarm bearing and linkage bearings. Water pump and or seal. What is a good mileage to do a top end? Im used to throwing in a topend on my 2T every year. What is good leakdown percentage?
  6. I have a 00 400s that came with a yellow spring. At some point, the shock gave out and I bought a used shock from a DRZ. This one had a red spring on it. Can anybody identify S or E? Is there any diff between an S and E spring?
  7. Its time for a topend. I have an S with 9k on the clock and Im about to do the TAT/CD in Sept. Im pretty sure I want to keep the stock compression as finding the good fuel can be hard and hard on the wallet in the middle of nowhere. This bike will be cruising as I leave the wailing to the KTM. Ive been on the auction site and have seen lots of 13.5 and 12.2 CR Wiseco kits but nothing in the 11 range like the stocker. Is there an extra thick base gasket that I can use with the 12.2 to bring it down so I dont have to use high test gas? I have done the 3x3 and have the stock carb with a JD kit and a Yosh pipe. Thanks in advance for the replies.
  8. So the Clymer manual has a bunch of bogus info. Nice big half page of how to lap the valve into the seat. I believe the owner has another set of valves from another head. Ill have to see. Is this coating only on the OEM valves?
  9. Is there some kind of coating/hardening on the valve? When I say lapped, I mean really lightly just to confirm seal and clean up deposits.
  10. I throw a Slime electric pump in the backpack. It is small and quick. It will also seat the bead of a tire after reinstall of a flat repair.
  11. Well, I had to step away from this rebuild for a bit due to life/work ect. but I am back at it. During the tear down the head was sent out for a bit of porting and the valves were relapped. Of course I hadnt thought about the valve clearances being off but they are. I am assuming that proper valve clearance must be done first before degreeing the cam as the moment of lift will change with valve clearance. Is the effect of .002-3 (valve clearance) going to make a significant difference in timing the cam? Unfortunately, all the extra shims I have are going in the wrong direction.
  12. I used a dial indicator on the piston 1/2 inch down in the cylinder. Used directions that came with the wheel. Not as easy as piston stop but same results.
  13. Eddie Found TDC by averaging the dwell using a dial indicator and and spinning the crank both ways. f2dog Its an inanimate object. With a little research, and some help from places like here, things like this are doable. And Im not just doing this for fun. The cam gears were not marked or if they were, the paint is gone. This is just slowing the rebuild on a motor that Im tired of looking at. Thanks for the info Noble
  14. Well, I forgot that I had an old degree wheel from my car days and I broke it out. It has been a very long time but with the FAQ, I have some numbers for the intake and it is 104 with a target of 108. My question is which way to I move the cam? I am thinking that I need to move it to the left if looking at the cam gears. I am right thinking I record numbers .050 before open and .050 just before close. Thanks
  15. dpsmith Yes, I understand the IN is for intake and EX is for exhaust. In this case, it is on both cam gears and they dont line up to the head or any other punch mark. The Hot Cam install video shows cam gears with 9, 12, and 3 oclock marks. These are just horrible.