leemoto1

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About leemoto1

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    California
  1. Ran dr650 with choke on for 5 miles
  2. I noticed you are running a 170 main and was wondering how that was working for you. Have you also modded the air box and do you have a tunable exhaust. Also wondering what altitude you are at. I have a 1990 DR650 and am running a 160 main with a cut air box, K&N, and super trapp with 18 disc's in it. I was thinking about trying a 170 main but thought that it would be to big. Looking for Info. Thanx, Leemoto1
  3. is your bike jetted? if so, what size main are you running?
  4. What size main jet are you running? leemoto1
  5. I noticed you are running a 170 main and was wondering how that was working for you. Have you also modded the air box and do you have a tunable exhaust. Also wondering what altitude you are at. I have a 1990 DR650 and am running a 160 main with a cut air box, K&N, and super trapp with 18 disc's in it. I was thinking about trying a 170 main but thought that it would be to big. Looking for Info. Thanx, Leemoto1
  6. Do it all at the same time. Cut the box, get a K&N Filter,Jet and drill the slide in your Carb, and get an exhaust system that is tuneable (ie. Super Trapp with diffuser discs). With a tunable exhaust and your air box correctly cut you will probably run160 main. I have a 1990 DR 650 that is running 17 discs in the Trapp, 160 main, drilled slide, and a seriously modded air box with a K&N filter...my bike is a rocket. I highly recommend that you find someone in your area that has a DYNO machine that can totally dial your bikes cardio vascular. I am pushing 56 HP to my back wheel (couldn't have dialed it that well with out the Dyno).As well, the 1990-1992 DR650's came with 3.5 more horse power than the following years (go figure). Rock and Roll
  7. Does anyone know if therr is an after market plastic tank available for a 1990 DR 650? I didn't see anything on the internet between Clarke, IMF, ACEBRIS.
  8. I would not do the big bore kit or the High compression piston. I did the big bore with an 80 over kit (which is the big bore, approximately 28cc's more - standard bore size is 641cc's). I strongly believe that the walls become to thin and become prone to cracking (then what - buy a new cylinder because you are maxed out...or you could sleeve it but non sleeve is better - stock is best). My cylinder cracked. Also, these motors run hotter when bored and need to be jetted to compensate (even still run hot). As well, I wouldn't mess with a high compression piston (not worth the hassle). More than likely you will need to run a mix of pump fuel and race fuel to get an octane of about 100ish just to get it started, let alone running, and as well the higher octane will actually lower the engine temperature (which is good). Lets look at this logically, you are already running 641cc's in one cylinder...28cc's more ain't gonna make a difference and it is not worth the hassles and side effects. If you want more power this is what you do: run a DJ 160-170, mod the air box, K/N air filter, tunable exhaust (Super Trap with Diffuser disc's) and 14t counter shaft sprocket...you will be faster, stronger, engine cooler, and your factory reliability will be intact. Lets face it, the DR650 is a solid John Deer (can't do and no need to do any messing around with the architecture of the power plant). If you want to buy a bike that is designed to be modded ten different ways from Sunday then get a DRZ400 (they come governed...until you unleash the true power of the Yoshi engine design). Rock and Roll! leemoto1
  9. What size jet is this: Dynojet(E3256.001)? Trying to dial mine in: Modded air box, K/N air filter, Super Trapp Tunable exhaust (8 disc's). Thanx, leemoto1
  10. What size jet did you go with? leemoto1
  11. If you do any off road, Get a Bash Plate Now!!!!! I have a 1990 DR650 that came standard with the best alloy Bash Plate I could want. Unfortunately, as the years moved on Suzuki stopped including the plate (same with the Tach and desert tank). There are good plates available aftermarket...get one soon. leemoto1
  12. There was one on ebay a week ago. See if it is still there! leemoto1
  13. Get a shop (service) Manual. I saw one on EBAY for your year for $30 (killer deal since a new one is around $90). leemoto1
  14. I have had my DR for 16 years (21,000 miles) and during that time I have changed the chain three times. My advice to you is this: Don't skimp on the DRIVE CHAIN!!!!! Especially if you are riding off road or in Hot and Cold (and raining) weather. The O'ring chain is superior in every aspect of the matter. leemoto1
  15. I have had my DR650 for 16 years and here's how it goes: 1. Warm the engine up. 2. Unscrew the drain plug. 3. Take out the oil filter. 4. After oil is done draining on side stand, lean DR as far down as you can to both the right and left sides until all oil stops draining. 5. Reinstall new oil filter and drain plug (make sure gasket is still good on both filter housing and drain plug) 6. Pour approximately two quarts of Honda semi-synthetic oil. 7. Fire up and let idle for a few minutes. 8. Turn motor off, let bike sit for one minute and check oil glass. Adjust oil level (if need be) until level is at full line. It is unnecessary to get every last drop of the old oil out (which means you will never use the total amount of oil the owners manual states - which is 2.3 quarts). Remember that it is important that the bike is perfectly straight up and down when viewing the glass (I tie mine down with ties for total accuracy). Change your oil every 1500 miles or once a year and your DR will live a long and prosperous life! leemoto1