DusTRhodes

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About DusTRhodes

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    TT Newbie

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  • Location
    California
  1. I have 3 Rekluses. 2 in Yamaha 450's and 1 in a 500 EXC. Use Mobil 1 Racing 4T in all 3. Have been using it past 7 years with no issues. My 1st Rekluse has over 300 hours on it and no visible wear to speak of.... as in I look at it every 30 hours or so and don't see anything obvious.
  2. As said before, removing emissions stuff took care of the backfire. I added a JD tuner. The tuner corrected the lean conditions which eliminated the off idle stumble and pop stalls. Also improved throttle response and feel throughout. I don't see any need to remap. Just my .02; sure others will have varying opinions.
  3. Both needed to be corrected on my bike. Called the dealer, took it in and work was completed within three hours of the initial discovery. Thanks for posting!
  4. Paid $10,600 OTD in SOCAL back in January. Works out to a couple hundred less than MSRP plus tax/reg fees and no dealer add-ons.
  5. I have one in my 500. Only 10 hours on it but it has already been on a couple of difficult rides and seen a wide variety of terrain. Works well. The first time I set it up I picked up half an inch free play gain during a ride. Checked it out and all was fine. Hasn't happened since. I use loctite 243 on the locking screw but not the adjusting screw. Will not disengage after warm up? I'd take a close look and verify I didn't have any extra plates installed. Extra stack height could cause that.
  6. These are really solid motors! Be sure to keep up with valve clearance and leak down checks, etc as the time adds up. The center intake valve on my '07 YZ450 went at roughly 200 hrs. Shimmed it once at about 20 hrs and it stayed in spec 'til the coating wore through. Went from spec clearance to sticking open in just over 10 hrs. Considering that 2/3 of the 200 hrs was in the often heavy dust of D37 desert scrambles I'm happy with 200 hrs.
  7. Have tubliss f/r on a YZ450 for past 3-4 months; roughly 15-20 hours on the tires. Love it ... until this past weekend. I was careful with the install and had no issues. Unbelievable how well they hold air between rides. Got out to the dez the aftermoon before a race and got a front flat putting around near camp with my daughter. The inner tube blew apparently all by itself on easy terrain. Was running 14 psi at the time and taking it easy. Found a 1"+ rupture in a location that didn't see tire irons or have any other obvious initiation sources. Safe bet it would've gone during the race if I hadn't done the play ride. Had a spare tubliss tube for the race. Three flats (punctures) with tubes in the past 800 hours of riding (per engine time logs). 1 flat without obvious cause in 15 hours with a tubliss. Hmmmmm On the fence with tubliss right now. Currently have less faith in them than tubes. Like being able to run the low pressures. My good luck with tubes is likely due to running higher pressures in rocky riding areas. Maybe mousse or balls next??
  8. Don't run tubliss on my DRZ. Have tubliss f/r on a YZ450 for past 3-4 months; roughly 15-20 hours on the tires. Love it ... until this past weekend. I was careful with the install and had no issues. Unbelievable how well they hold air between rides. Got out to the dez the aftermoon before a race and got a flat putting around near camp with my daughter. The inner tube blew all by itself on easy terrain. Found a 1"+ rupture in a location that didn't see tire irons or have any other obvious initiation sources. Safe bet it would've gone during the race if I hadn't done the play ride. Had a spare tubliss tube for the race. Three flats (punctures) with tubes in the past 800 hours of riding (per engine time logs). 1 flat without obvious cause in 15 hours with a tubliss. Hmmmmm
  9. I've been wearing the Koerta with a Leatt for 3+ years. No jersey mods necessary. Replaced the hard plastic shoulder straps with 1" wide webbing cut off of cheap tie down straps. Put on the koerta, then your jersey. The Leatt slides through the neck hole and under your Koerta then you buckle it. My Camelback shoulder straps go on top of the Leatt side tabs. Sinch up the Camelback cross strap across the front of the Leatt and it isn't moving. That locks the shoulder straps on top of the Leatt side tabs.
  10. Thanks Gray! Had more time to work on it tonight. A little bit of solvent where the arm rests on the gear inner surface removed the sticking tendency.
  11. A couple of times this past year while sitting on the line going through my pre dead engine start routine my engine pretty much locked up after a firm kick from the top of the stroke. In one case the kick start broke loose and racheted as I tried to push through the stroke. Both times that it locked up, all was fine after a minute or so of waiting. At the time I figured that the auto decompress wasn't doing it's thing for some reason. Now ... I have the top end apart. The decompress mechanism operates smooth as silk but the paw feels sticky when leaving the contact surface on the cam gear and starting to move inwards. It seems like it has a tendancy to stay in the outward position but hasn't stuck while I was playing with it. Any ideas how to fix this sticking tendancy? This is on an '07 with a Rekluse. Thanks!
  12. I'm planning on heading out to Ocotillo Wells Sunday for a quick paced 2-3 hr ride and welcome anyone who is up for that. Prefer the afternoon but could go anytime Sunday. Please respond if interested. Brian
  13. I have an '07 YZ450. I saw a post about this issue before I got the bike and knew to look for frame erosion from the chain. My chain was taking a serious bite into the frame and I tried several ways to verify alignment. I would try an alignment method, mark the area with blue machinists dye and go ride. The chain kept wearing the stuff off and eating the frame. I would think of another alignment method and the chain kept hitting the frame. Things I tried included: 1) Sighted the sprockets. 2) Used a straight edge. 3) Ensured same distance from swingarm pivot to axle centers on each side. 4) Welded up a special tool to rest on the rear sprocket and indicate the front sprocket. In the end I basically verified that each of the alignment methods agreed with the previous adjustments and I had a high confidence in my alignment. At the same time I was very interested in this issue on other YZ450's. I have checked a few and they all had significant wear (> .125"). So ... I ended up making a simple chain block using 3/4" aluminum angle and 1/2" HDPE. The aluminum is JB welded to the frame and the plastic is held on with a couple of screws. The chain block in the photo has over 40 hours on it, most of it being used in desert scrambles. It is holding up well and I don't see any more frame wear. http://s213.photobucket.com/albums/cc103/DusTRhodes/?action=view&current=chain_block.jpg
  14. See ya there. Dark grey F250/plated blue DRZ.
  15. Early Sunday ... I can do that. How about 7:30?