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      JUST IN!   07/18/2018

      Video: 2019 Yamaha YZ250F Features & Benefits 


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About Shawndude

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    British Columbia
  1. Can you post a picture of your bike? A stock DRZ shouldn't wobble, it may weave lightly, but a real wobble is most likely your front wheel mounting.
  2. A battery is almost always a load on the charging system, as you cannot get current flow from lower Voltage to a higher Voltage (same as oil, water, air pressure). A weak battery is like having an extra headlight bulb running, as the battery itself is using up the power, trying to charge up (but it can't). A healthy battery puts little load on the system....but it's always a load with a running engine, unless you're dropping under the battery voltage (you shouldn't). The charging voltage is dependent on the load, as the capacity of the system is fairly limited. Once the regulator is fully shut off (maximum output state), that's all the output you can get out of the system. You say the headlight is flickering. It shouldn't flicker, it should just dim at low RPM, with the brake lights on and maybe turn signals, and get brighter once you raise the RPM and turn off the brake light. If it's actually flickering like a candle, I'd test the generator.
  3. If you are just trying to get the bike home, I'd suggest find someone with a pickup truck, a piece of wood (for a ramp), some straps and haul the bike home. Long trips on a dirt bike are not the place to find out what the seller didn't tell you about the machine. It doesn't take much to take you out of action, and then the rescue tow is going to cost you tons more than if you just picked it up in a first place. Or even rent a van or something, until you know the bike doesn't have hidden gremlins.
  4. It depends a lot on the guy riding it. I've done plenty of 700+ mile a day rides on the DRZ, and my ass never hurts. Even 3 days in a row (5 days in a row for shorter distances). My friends cry like babies after 3 hours in the DRZ saddle. But how bad can it be? Imagine trying to do that time on a bicycle, and the seat will seem like a lazy boy cushion in comparison. My sport bike is 400 times more painful to ride than the DRZ.
  5. Cool. I was just trying to point out that fretting over the torque wrench being calibrated to 0.05% doesn't matter all that much, since all the other thread conditions have a huge influence on what really matters most...proper bolt preload.
  6. Bronco, check the user names posting stuff. I just posted the variability in bolt preloads using different methods, that's it.
  7. From the machinery handbook (the bible): Accuracy of bolt preload application methods. By feel +/- 35% Torque wrench +/- 25% Turn of nut +/- 15% Preload indicating washer +/- 10% Strain gauge +/- 1%
  8. So I bought one of these Raptor inserts. Picture comparing to Yosh potato. Test: All numbers are directly proportional flow volume, and setup was verified in each step by flow of just the pipe to make sure nothing messed up between changing things. Numbers on their own do not mean anything, but they are valid for comparison to each other. Yosh SS 'E' model Mid pipe only = 566 Mid pipe, Muffler, no insert = 505 Mid pipe with Yosh muffler and "potato" insert = 234 Mid pipe with Yosh muffler and Raptor insert = 237 Just potato insert, no muffler = 248 Just raptor insert, no muffler = 253 mid pipe, plus 1" Dia pipe x 18" long = 263
  9. 2004 KLX 400SR 16,000 miles oil change every 3,500 miles (factory spec) oil filter replaced twice (factory spec) Valves in spec nothing ever done to the engine, runs like a champ. Replaced. Chain (broke a link in half and chain flew off) Front sprocket wore out Rear wheel bearings wore out Rear wheel spacers wore out roughly 6 sets of tires
  10. Here is a better diagram of the headlight jumper.
  11. I have one of these sitting around, but I can't see how it helps anything when I tried to figure out how to stick it on. Anyone install one? Can the fuel inlet pipe on the CV carb be rotated downwards? I tried, but didn't want to bust it off.
  12. Are you sure you're measuring it correctly? It's easy to mess up, and think it's a lot tighter than it is. I've got 16,000 miles on my valves, and they never been adjusted, all still within spec. I change the oil per factory interval (3500 miles, cheap regular motorcycle oil that meets the specs) and ride lots of dirt and long high speed runs (I've done 700+ mile per day runs). Not a hint of problems with anything that the oil touches.
  13. If you just want to carry fuel in your luggage, we have used pop bottles (for fizzy drinks) for this, and never had a problem. They are really tough, and rated for 120 PSI or something silly like that. Strangely the gas attendants never hassled us for filling up 2 liter Pepsi bottles with fuel. Not once has it spilled, or ruptured or anything.
  14. I've used this small metal jerry can for years: You can buy it in military surplus stores, it's from a German "mess kit" and this was used for kerosene cooking oil. It holds just over 5 liters, and is almost indestructible. The kit comes with two jerry cans, and bunch of other stuff for about 20 bucks. I made a bracket for it, that bolts to the top subframe (where the stock tool kit was) and to the passenger peg bracket. Here is the only picture I have without the jerry can on there.
  15. As ebrabaek points out, that first kit is crap. It uses a halogen bulb for the high beam...and due to space limitations it cannot be anywhere near the focal point of the lens design. Second kit is the solenoid type, but appears to be different from the usuall one. You will not have room behind the headlight to mount it, measure it and see, it will hit your steering stem, and all the cables back there. Focal points and lens design is king in good lighting. Everything else is secondary. By the way, I do not run an HID, I run a dual high/low beam together combination. It's million times superior to the HID...that was bright, but didn't shine the light where I needed to. The both beams together trick works awesome, and it's been tested for many thousands of miles. And it costs nothing. OUTERLIMITS, it's not the case in the DRZ housing and HID I tried, but that's simply due to a mis-alignment of the focal points. Move the focal point to the rear, and it creates a shadow in the center (and widens the fringe lighting). If you measure the bulbs, I'd think you'd see the HID is not in the same place as the Halogen. It's neither a benefit or hindrance of each light type, more like quality control issue, that just happened to work in your favor.