TyDog

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About TyDog

  • Rank
    TT Newbie

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  • Location
    Georgia
  • Interests
    Kids, M/X, snow & water skiing, snowbording,private pilot scuba diving, playing on my tractor
  1. What ever became of this project? It is a 1979 Rm 400. TyDog
  2. Welcome mate! Good folk and info here. Cheers;
  3. How about air leaks in the the intake boot, between the carb and head? A small crack or an area not properly clamped / sealed will give this symptom most every time. With the perimeter frame that area is a real*@#$%^+ to get to.
  4. It could very well be the stator but I would try the obvious and less expensive routes first. If it is popping, blubbering and missing violently like that, I would look for an air leak between the carb and the engine causing it to go lean. That definitely is not good!!! Could try the spark plug but I just do not think that is the problem. If it just wants to lose power and bog, I would check the air filter for being clogged and the cleanlinees inside the carb. I would mainly be looking at the main jet crcuit. One other one along this route would be the fuel strainer in the fuel tank for being clogged. I have seen one these clog (not on a RMZ though) and the bike will run fine until until it really is trying to draw a lot fuel on top end with a load on the engine. It was drawing the bowl dry after extended long runs. I hope this is of some help help to you. Please reply back good or bad news, cool? Anybody else offer any ideas?? Eddie. TyDog
  5. Ausimoto, Is this right after you fully open the throttle and the engine is trying to build revs or after it has reached the upper parts it's rev range? Sorry to be nosey, I just do not fully understand the problem. TyDog
  6. John45; Awesome and congatulations to you!!! Not to ever get in your business or throw out advice, but be sure to grip the bike with your knees, keep your weight somewhat centered over the bike, steady throttle and never ever chop the throttle on the face of the jump. These simple ideas will pretty much keep you out of having to make a serious in the air correction. I love hearing the enthusiasm in your post and never wish for somebody to slow their learning curve due to injury. Gary Semics had a jumping video that had a lot of good pointers in it. Kinda' like that one good golf shot out of 104 that makes you want to go back, huh? Be safe mate and most of all have fun with it!!!!!
  7. 3.776" center to center. This is taken from a stock top bar clamp that I have here. The holes are machined for clearance on a 8mm bolt. Good luck. KT
  8. Rob, I would be glad to help you but I am not sure that I understand your question. Sorry. Pinch bolts, bar risers or do you mean the distance between the fork tubes? KT
  9. Does anyone here have any experience or opinions with any aftermarket chain guide replacement blocks and / or the sliders? I was not real impressed with the life of the stock guide insert. My slider has actually worn pretty well though. I wondered what you thought of the wear and noise vs. the cost. Are the newer OEM ones any better than my 05? Thanks.
  10. Update. Rocky Mountain contacted me twice by phone about my findings. They offered to replace my parts with some corrected ones but being that I had corrected mine, they gave me a full refund without my even asking. A rep from them also saw my post here and sent me a private message on TT. He wanted to be sure that I was happy and to tell me that they had contacted people who had bought these and were in the process of getting their parts fixed also. This all happened the same week that I made the phone call and this post. I just did not update due to being out of town. In the end, I was pretty damned impressed with their follow up. I just wanted to give credit where it was due!!!!!!!!!!!!
  11. I recently purchased a product simply for the bling factor. Something that I seldom do. Well also it got me to the $100 mark to get the free shipping. I hate to even call out the company name because I have had good service from them but I really feel as though I need to get the word out. They were the Tusk red anodized axle sliders from Rocky Mountain for a RMZ 450. To make a long story fairly short, the problem is that they do not have the required chamfer (actually they have none) on the corner of the vertical face (side facing inboard against the swingarm) and the upper and lower horizontal faces. This will cause a severe problem of pressing this sharp corner into the larger corner radius of the swingarm when you tighten the axle nut. The stock parts have an approx. .100" X 45 degree chamfer. This can be easily remedied by any machine shop in just few minutes or even with a file or die grinder. If left unchecked, this could cause stress risers and even cracks in the swingarm. The least that it will do is to cause the axle not to move freely during chain adjustments after the damage has been done. Overall I was fairly impressed with the quality of the machine work on these, especially for the $20 price tag. I have been a machinist for about 29 years. I just wanted all of my brothers here to be aware of this condition. Please feel free to post this in any forum that you deem necessary. Also, I called Rocky MTN and made them aware of it. The guy was nice but I'm not sure what good it did and I felt as though I was wasting his time. Be Safe, TyDog
  12. Does anyone know of a plate that will protect the bottom of the frame rails in addition to the usual areas ? I looks to me that the Factory Team has even gone to new style plate for the 06 S/X season. Any help would be appreciated. I will post any info that I were to come across.
  13. I notice White Power suspension.
  14. To make a short story of this, I bought a 05 450 with 10 hrs on it from a good friend mine. It has Applied trees. I know that I have the stock trees but I am not sure that the stock mounts were in the Applied box. These parts are not here at my home but I will try to look into it for you today. Sorry for the delay.
  15. I may have some. It will be tomorrow before I can let you know for sure though.