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About XR1985

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  1. Re Havingfun... yes it is at the dealer from which the bike was brought.. and the noise resulted from their rings/piston change... so paying $ and resulting in this obviously does not work for me. Of course paying more $ to take it somewhere else is in some ways even less attractive. They have genuinely tried to solve it and referred it to other dealers (to listen to), but are at loss for a solution. Garry
  2. Naf, Thanks for your ideas, I'll follow-up with the bike mechanic Havingfun, Order of dissassembly was: 1.) Replacement of piston and rings (only) noise manifest Diagnostics made without resolution 2.) The motor opened up a second time, big end and main bearings replaced Internals checked and all considered ok (by the mechanic who is a KTM speecialist) Garry
  3. Responding to each of the above in turn: - Bearings all check out ok upon inspection when opened up the second time (oil etc has been changed) - No leakdown test has been performed... piston inspected fine when opened up a second time.. (thanks for the idea) engine runs fine apart form the noise - Replaced the timing chain adjuster with another brand new adjuster... timing chain has also been replaced... it now has the original timing chain adjuster back in it. Have listened carefully around idle because I am aware of this issue... no knocking sound at all at idle.. just at 5000rpm under load. Garry
  4. Hi Noise is under load.. with ~ 1/2 throttle or greater... only there for ~ 1000rpm .. metallic in sound.. sounds like a timing chain slapping (which was our first assumption), but as per the diagnostics and actions taken.. its not the timing chain. Sound is not there at the same revs with the throttle closed. Thanks Garry
  5. Hi I’d be interested in any ideas for solving a significant engine knocking noise occurring in our KTM 250 exc-f 2007 (same as 250 XC-f) after the installation of new piston and rings at our dealer. Bike has done 4000kms /170 hours and went in for a routine piston and rings service. However after the service the bike has a distinct metallic knocking noise in the engine under load at 5000rpm in 4th and 5th gear. There was no noise of this type before the service. The noise is present over ~ 1000 rpm band only and sounds as if it is coming from within the motor. In order to try and fix the problem the bike shop has tried all of the following (in order): - New Piston and rings ------ Noise commences - Check whole of bike for any loose fittings etc. - changed jetting between lean and rich - adjusted drive chain tension - changed sparkplug - changed cam chain tensioner Reopened motor: - checked clearances... all ok - installed a new big end/conrod combination and main bearing - shimmed valve clearances - inspected gears - installed a new cam chain None of the above has changed or removed the nature of the knocking noise. We (both the bikeshop and us) are unable how to resolve this as it appears that we have exhausted all possibilities. So if anyone has suggestions for diagnostics or actions that could be taken to resolve this, it would be much appreciated.
  6. In terms of difference the KTM is all positive. The low-speed torque is compartive (or better) than an XR250 (I have a JD jetting kit) I have described a set-up suitable for a female rider at: http://users.tpg.com.au/jpggla1/ktm/ (it is the same model bike but with a front headlight) The bike is easy to ride in the woods (in fact I have geared it up to 14:52) as the low speed torque is easily good enough. Justine
  7. XR1985

    how hard is it to lower a KTM?

    Hi, I have lowered a 2007 KTM 250 exc-f (same bike but with lights) Its now has an 85cm seat height.. which you'd find easily low enough The work is described at: http://users.tpg.com.au/jpggla1/ktm/ ahh yes the bike is great fun.... Justine
  8. XR1985

    Who s got the highest mileage WR?????

    It is run with the synthetic Shell VSX... changed at a minimum of 500km and a maximum of 1200km, dependent on condition. I am surprised it has kept running like this. No hesitation in buying another Yamaha, reliability lets you ride rather than rebuild. Garry
  9. XR1985

    Who s got the highest mileage WR?????

    Guys, I have had a 2001 WR426 since new. It has done 11,500 miles (18,500km) Apart from oil/filter/spark plug the only engine maintenance has been: - 2 adjustments of one valve - Change in timing chain at 11,000 miles. This bike is more reliable than any XR that I have had. One VERY reliable engine for the engine output, with the mods it still runs great with good compression and no smoke… it doesn’t owe me anything, and I’ll just keep running it. Garry
  10. XR1985

    New rear tire for 07 wr450

    Hi All, If you REALLY want long tyre life… A rear tyre well suited to our bikes is the Mitas CO-2 ‘Stone King’ (formerly this was Barum the Chech company). See: http://www.mityre.com.au/pdf/bikes/cross.pdf I have a WR 426 and just changed my rear, and it had covered 4,380 miles (7000kms) !!! (which is nuts.. ) My previous Mitas C0-2 Rear lasted 2000 miles. Before using this tyre I was getting ~ 600miles (~1000kms) from an assortment of brands and re-treads. On rock, a tyre would be destroyed in a day.. and I’d be forced to back off to preserve the tyre on multi-day rides… unacceptable! So I have found the Mitas CO-2 to be a great solution, you can spin the wheel up on rocks endlessly and it takes it. .. its endurance is way ahead of any other dirtbike tyre that I have experienced. So what’s the traction like? Surprisingly I have found it to be fine for all terrains,, including mud. The CO-2 has an aggressive compound and well-tolerates low tyre pressures… I have certainly used rears with inferior grip. I use a Michellin s12 on the front… So what is occurring here???.. in the 1980’s I wouldn’t touch a Barum tyre… well it appears that their quality is improving and have seriously bridged the gap with other brands. Apparently they are now the largest tyre manufacturer in Europe…. So I guess that have placed an appropriate R&D budget into their dirtbike tyres.. http://www.mityre.com.au/aboutus.shtml My suggestion: track-down and try a Mitas CO-2 on the rear.. with a quality front tyre…. Change off the Mitas tyre if you are racing, Otherwise use it as the means of getting your WR’s power to the ground without pointless and expensive rear tyre usage, Garry