maxpower220

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About maxpower220

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  1. Why sell the USD forks? They are better than the S/E forks, this would be a downgrade. Perhaps you should revalve/respring them.
  2. You would think that manufacturers would get a clue and put the manual on CD/DVD and sell instead of wasting trees. I am not a tree hugger, but it is nice to print out the page(s) I need, get them dirty, and throw them away. You never ruin the CD with greasy hands. It is ashame that Suzuki can't get techology and sell the CD.
  3. Better forks are just that better forks. Unless you weigh 150 or less, no matter which bike SM/S/E you get you will need to respring and/or revalve for your weight. That is if you want the bike to work for you. I just put Race Tech springs and valves in my SM and I love the results, no more 5 inch nose down when letting off of the throttle and easing into the brakes. The cost of 17s will probably wipe out any savings of buying a S model in the first place.
  4. [ My question is... was my stock+jetting done well enough that I'm really not noticing a huge difference with the FCR carb or is my FCR carb not getting the max output that it could potentially have. I've only had it in for about 4 days and still tweaking the fuel screw. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Other mods include: yoshimura rs3 comp 3x3 I am in the same situation. I firmly believe that a properly set up CV carb runs very nice. The FCR runs higher RPMs and has quicker throttle response, but it was not the boost in acceleration that I have heard claims of.
  5. What? It may not fit. It may be very difficult, but yes it will work. I have seen Viper V-10 motors in Jeep rock crawlers and a turbo on a DRZ, FI shouldn't be impossible.
  6. You might try to swap the motor out of an SVX 550 or perhaps and R6, other than that the drz doesn't stand a chance.
  7. Also, remember to test the play in the cable with the front wheel turned all the way in each direction. Some cables get stretched or compressed with the wheel turned which can cause the carb to open up. This is bad when you are in a slow speed turn and unexpected power is added. That is why the manual recommends 5 mm of play.
  8. After deciding on a SM bike. The DRZ was my choice based on reliability, parts available, and dealer network. The bike has been around a while with a good track history. Cost was another factor (cheaper than the Euro street legal bikes and overall cheaper than converting a jap mx bike.). The husky 610 would have probably been a "better" choice, but at the time (early 06), those bikes were having many headgasket issues (plus no dealer close). I have purchased the 21/18 wheelset and now have a bike that I can do it all on. (None of it great either). But there aren't any other bikes that you can spend the same $ on and get so much out of.
  9. I rode my 06 at Streets of Willow for a track day and have to adjust the front fully and most of the rear. I weigh 165 plus gear and I have Michelin Pilot Race 110/150 tires. I was getting a lot of front end chatter in "high speed" turns. Even with the full adjustment on the front, I was still getting chatter, but is was much less. The only way to fix properly it with the right springs. It did help, but not enough to call it great. Hope this is the answer to your question.
  10. You just can't trust those engineers at Michelin..... it's a good thing there are so many experts on the internet.
  11. If you are new to riding on the streets, the stock tires should be a very good tire. You should wear them out in a reasonable amount of time. There are many superior tires available. Wait until your times need replacing and then use the "search" feature to determine the brand and size that you will replace them with. The phase "you don't know what you don't know" applies to suspension setup, tires, and experience.
  12. LAAS vs WAAS, and your specific GPS unit will determine sample rate and accuracy. Granted, I would not use GPS for timing a 0-60 run, but rolling at fairly constant speed, most GPSs will be more accurate than speedos. It is common knowledge that motorcycles have optimistic readouts. Do a constant speed run with your GPS at specific speeds and note the difference, then just adjust you speedo speed as necessary. Also, using a GPS history of track and speed (if your GPS does that), could be very convincing in court for 'proof' of your speed. If you were not speeding.... yeah right.
  13. I am running the H2 110/150 combo and I love them. I have done a few track days at Streets of Willow and Amago, the tires stick everywhere. The 110 profile is suited well for the bike, but the 120 profile is better (if you are riding on the track). I have over 1000 miles on them and they will look perfect. That is a great price, I bought mine on ebay for $119 shipped. H2/S2 is an older tire, so I guess that is why they can sell them cheaper.
  14. I switched over to a 110/60 and a 150/60 michelin pilot race and I really like it. I am using all of the front tire, where in the past (on sportbikes) I could not do that on the 120/70 profile front. The 150 rear (in my mind) gives better grip than the 140. Overall street riding, I think you will notice only a very slight difference. If you are replacing worn tires that are squared off, any new tire with a proper profile will make you bike feel like brand new.
  15. I recently got one on CD Rom in a PDF format from ebay. Cost was $9.50 shipped from Italy. FYI.