razcob

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About razcob

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    Virginia
  1. I just picked up a 2009 with 5 miles on it. I have noticed that it is very easy to kick over when the engine is cold, but it seems much harder when the bike is hot. When it is hot or cold, the bike starts no different with the push button. Is this normal for this bike? Because, I haven't experienced this with other 4 strokes. Thanks.
  2. I have read the pinned FAQ on jetting, but I can't find a post regarding jetting from sea level to 400 feet. I noticed some of the recommendations were posted in 04, but I have an crf250x 09 non california model. These models may be the same, but Rick Ramsey mentions his jetting is not for the 'newer' bikes, so hence my confusion. My only modifications are opening the top of the air box, but maintaining the current OEM air filter and exhaust, if possible. I am looking for an equivalent to the JD kit, since it seems pricey. This article mentions using a NCYQ or NCVQ needle. http://www.dirtrider.com/tests/off-road-bikes/141_0409_honda_crf250x_hop/ I would like to increase the engines delivery, but not sacrifice any reliabilty. Recommendations? Main Pilot Fuel Screw Leak Thanks.
  3. I would like to source replacement steering, front and rear wheel bearings from a local bearing shop for a '12 yz250. Does anyone know the replacement sizes? Or, which bearing manufacturers you would or would not recommend. Thanks.
  4. I have read how to power-up the 150 as described in the sticky. But, if I remove the muffler baffle, won't the bike be much louder? Can I replace the jets and airbox mod, without removing the baffle? I don't want the bike to be loud.
  5. I appreciate your reply. Are you saying, because the bike has stock jetting, it won't idle when cold, unless it is rejetted?
  6. I recently bought a used, stock, 2012 CRF150F, that was ridden very little. I have read that these bikes are cold blooded. With the ambient temperatures around 50-60 degrees, shouldn't the bike high idle with the choke or detent on, when the engine is cold? It won't idle, when cold, with the choke on. I have to rev the throttle, to keep it going. When warm it idles normally. Is this normal?
  7. Has anyone had success removing scratches and boot wear marks from their WR swingarm and frame? Most may say, just do nothing and ride it, but I am looking at purchasing a used WR, with this wear, and want to present the bike to my son in the best possible condition. I would like to resurface the wear to match the rest of the frame. Any suggestions? UPDATE: found Zeta carbon racing guards to cover frame wear. Now, just need to know how to remove Swingarm scratches.
  8. Check cycletrader.com for competing prices. I always ask for the 'out the door' price. Depending on your location, you could save money, 'flying and buying' or simply driving to the dealer.
  9. Easy fix, not so easy execution. There are two small, round balls (a little smaller than a BB gun ball) that are compressed by small springs against the choke lever shaft that keep it in the up position. The choke lever shaft has small holes that can get clogged with dirt and prevent the small, round balls from entering. 1. Remove front number plate. 2. Unscrew bottom plastic nut from choke attachment (16-17mm?) 3. Slide back rubber bellow to expose knurled nut 4. Unscrew knurled nut (Be careful!! As you unscrew the nut, you will expose two opposing springs that have underneath them the two small metal balls 5. Carefully remove two springs and two round balls. 6. Clean choke shaft and ensure the round holes that the round balls go into are clean. 7. Installation is the reversal. You may need a small screwdriver to keep the springs down to rescrew the knurled knob.
  10. I cleaned the carb again, and lightly greased the o-ring for the choke plunger. Choke is easier to manipulate. I set air screw to 1.5 turns. The bike won't start without a shot of starting fluid and with choke and idles erratically ONLY when it is warm. I have the airbox mod and a larger main jet, which I know is sensitive to cold weather. The plug is dry after several attempts to start before I use starting fluid. The bike runs great at any rpm, other than idle. Which carb circuit should I be looking at?
  11. I have the stock Mikuni *cal? carburetor. The bike won't start without the choke on and without throttle. It takes many kicks to get it to start. With the choke on or off doesn't seem to affect engine idle, or anything for that matter, or when the engine is hot. The choke requires much effort to push and pull.
  12. History: Bike wouldn't start, pulled carb found green algae/mold? clogging all carb parts. Cleaned carb, replaced air screw (2 turns), and o-ring for float needle. Re-assembled and bike will start, but won't idle. Runs fine otherwise. When I can get it to idle (rough), by manipulating the mid-throttle cable adjustment, adjusting the idle screw has no effect on idle speed. In fact it is screwed all the way in. I have holes in airbox along with one size large main jet (don't know size, but ran fine last year). Any suggestions? 2005 ttr125e
  13. The parts are expensive.
  14. My wish list: Liquid cooled engine, Electric Start Add a sturdier rear rack/subframe, Digital Speedo/etc. Increase stator output, Soften Seat Minimum 4 gallon plastic tank, fuel injection 6 gears, dual exhaust, $6900
  15. Congratulations Honda......you managed to piss off another champion. Remember, Ricky Carmichael........check Suzuki's RM450 sales figures...