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About dwb79

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  1. dwb79

    Cone Valve inserts for AER?

    I have tested Kashima. Myself and another rider did several laps on my test track with a pair of WP CC forks in my bike. I then swapped the OEM outer tubes for a Kashima coated pair. I reused the same bushes, seals, springs and oil. Because these were a closed chamber fork, I didn't open up or disturbe the inner cartridge in any way. Within 45mins we were back out on the same track, on the same bike, on the same day, with the same forks, with the only change being Kashima coat. The difference was very noticeable. The forks were much smoother and plusher. I came away from that test thinking that Kashima was well worth the money if you are looking for improvements. The fluid nature of the coating allows higher levels of damping to provide more control, without loosing the initial plushness. I have not done the same back to back tests with DLC.
  2. dwb79

    2018 500 EXC - rebound

    Closing the rebound bleed by winding the adjuster clockwise, will also reduce the compression bleed and make the forks/shock firmer.
  3. dwb79

    Cone Valve inserts for AER?

    The Cone Valve cartridge kit comes complete with axle lugs, bottoming cones, springs, spring tubes and the cartridges themselves. The only part of your stock forks that you will reuse are the inner and outer fork tubes. So yes they will work with the AER fork.
  4. There are a few manufacturers making drop in valves with shim stacks for damper rod forks, but they present two problems. 1. The large volume of oil flowing through a damper rod requires very light shim stacks as not to produce too much damping. A cartridge in a normal fork has +20 shims, whereas a Cogent DCC (for example) only has about 3 shims. Having a high oil flow with a light shim stack causes the shims to flex a long way and they often develop permanent distortion. This then prevents the shims from sealing on the piston face and you will loose damping. 2. The damper rod will struggle to refill with oil on the rebound stroke when any form of restriction is added to that circuit. Once these drop in valves with shim stacks are fitted, you can feel the cavitation within the fork even just pushing up and down on the fork by hand. If its happening at these low velocities, imagine what is happening at higher velocities. I guess this is why most manufatures stick with the tried and proven method of a valving plate controlled with a spring and a check plate on rebound. Good luck with your experiment. Hopefully you can overcome these issues that the other manufacturers haven't been able to. Let us know how you progress.
  5. With such a big bleed hole, the shock will also struggle to build damping, even with a really stiff stack.
  6. My Motorex rep told me about it on his last visit. I ordered it and have it in front of me now, but am yet to use it. Any motorbike shop that deals in Motorex should be able to supply it, although it wont be in their catalogue, so you'll need to get your local guy to call their Motorex distributor. Edit: Now that I look into it, it might only be new to the motorcycle division, as it apprears it may have come from the automotive side of the company. Its also called FETT 190 EP. https://www.motorex.com/en-us/car-line/grease/fett-190-ep/
  7. There are a few special tools required. There is a piston holder tool which is used to set the height of the piston after bleeding. It is important to get the piston height set correctly, so that you can install the spring and end cap to ensure proper pressurisation of the oil. Remember that this damper is like a twin chamber fork with an ICS. The other, and more important tool, is the vacuum machine adaptor. I bought the genuine Ohlins part and then changed the end threads to work on my RaceTech vac pump. I can't comment on hand bleeding it, because I've never tried, but I do know it would be much much harder than a Scotts damper. Whats your email address? I can send you the manual.
  8. I can just make out the part number on the Motorex grease. It is 300743, which is their old grease. This is good for most applications, but not the air seal. The new lithium EP grease is 300734. This grease has only just been released, so wouldnt have been available when 707 produced their video. I have no idea what grease they used for the air piston seal in their video.
  9. Motorex have a new lithium based greased which is recommended for the WP AER fork.
  10. dwb79

    KYB SSS midvalve collar and recesses

    Mostly I use a feeler gauge in one side while holding the other side of the shim stack down with my fingernail, to make the shims parallel with the piston. Repeat at 180 degrees.
  11. dwb79

    Compression/Rebound side on Shock Piston

    On 99% of bikes, the compression face shims are a larger diameter than the rebound face shims. There will be a matching difference in the piston port sizes. One exception to this rule that comes to mind is the early CR500's.
  12. dwb79

    KYB SSS midvalve collar and recesses

    I've tried both techniques and much prefer the feeler gauge method. I feel there is less room for error by taking one measurement compared to taking four separate measurements and calculating. I also think that a feeler gauge measurement is an actual measurement of the final build taking into consideration any compression or stretching of materials, any imperfections in casting/machining and is a great method for ensuring quality control.
  13. dwb79

    KYB SSS midvalve collar and recesses

    What do you think is causing the difference between your calculated and measured float?
  14. From my experience, I think you are still too light on compression and rebound damping. The stock shock is very soft and springy. I don't think you are packing in the whoops, but are just bottoming out. On the attached dyno graph, you can see the stock shock (in green) has very little damping everywhere, both compression and rebound. In comparison, the Cogent Mojave shock (in blue) has more LS comp damping and a little more HS comp damping, but a good healthy amount of rebound damping. On the other hand, the RaceTech shock shaft (in orange) has even less LS rebound damping than a stock shock, but then really ramps up as velocity increases. Your changes are a step in the right direction, but I think you need to go further. My simple suggestions would be to increase the diameter of the compression clamp shim and reduce the rebound crossover thickness to 0.10mm. Remember, if you don't have much compression damping, you cant run much rebound damping...
  15. Terry, It was from a Ducati Monster and as you know, road bikes aren't my strong point. Like you, it is the softest rear shock I have ever dyno'ed. The only other shock that has measured softer is the front shock from a R1200GS. I didn't have the opportunity to view this bike working on the track. I only had rider feedback, which would have steered me in the wrong direction. The dyno allowed me to view its performance here in my workshop without the bike, without a test track and within my tight time schedule.