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      JUST IN!   04/24/2018

      HOW TO: 4-STROKE PISTON REPLACEMENT DONE RIGHT!

nqglen

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About nqglen

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    TT Newbie

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  • Location
    Australia
  • Interests
    Riding, Fishing, Scuba
  1. At no stage did I say that your Interceptor should have worn out a long time ago. And if you haven't had a problem with your oil by now you are likely not to. The thing about a debate like this is that it will be nearly impossible to find out who is right and who is, if anyone, wrong. But when you or I are on a WR going hard at high temps and the bike is running at 10,000 RPM under high load, I reckon I know which oil will fail first. I personally have seen the results of premium motor oil failing in a high performance engine and this is why I use the higher performance designer oil. The problem is if your oil fails it Will not fail until the engine is under big loads at high revs and the results ain't pretty. Thanks for coming but I will stick to what you call the snake oil.
  2. WR engines are certainly performance engines with tolerances that I would expect to be a little more exact than a V8 truck engine. The heat generated by the WR engine, I would also assume, be far greater than a V8 truck engine as the energy produced is relative to the fuel put in and kilowatts produced. With a gearbox included in the engine comes a huge helping of friction and therefore more heat and with more friction and heat comes more abrasive wear. This is where synthetic oils or semi synthetic oils come into their own as they will work at hotter temps and maintain better shear stability that mineral oils. If you feel happy about using general purpose oil it is no skin of any body else’s nose. But one thing I can guarantee is you will be getting more wear in your engine than someone who is using a synthetic or semi synthetic. Oh, and throw the clutch plates in on the equation.
  3. Motor oils are specifically designed for the vehicle that is stated on the label. Oils designed for cars are certainly different than oils designed for bikes. Car oils have different additives in them to combat and carry out different jobs. For example, a diesel engine's combustion process produces sulphadyoxides that get into the oil and can be very corrosive. Diesel engine oils have additives that neutralise this byproduct and protect the engine components such as white metal bearings. Lets face it motor bike oils are not much more expensive than other oils and they don't use a hell of a lot. I certainly haven't seen a study reporting motor bike oil as being re-label diesel engine oil. When it comes down to it it is your bike and your money and you can use the oil that you feel safe in using. Do your engine break in as explained by Matt and OneToGo and then choose your oil or poison to what you feel safe in using. Most, if not all, your major brands make good quality bike oil, personally I use Motul and find it works well.
  4. I have an 05 WR450 and was thinking of a DEP slip on. Does anyone have feedback on how it will go?
  5. The reason your plug keeps fowling is that the bike is running very rich. If you also have a problem with fuel in your oil or fuel dripping on the ground the problem is more than likely your needle valve is not sealing. On newer bikes it could be, 1) Dirt between the needle and seat. 2) Incorrect float level. On older bikes, and maybe some newer bikes if your unlucky, it could also be, 3) The needle and seat may be damaged and need replacing. 4) Fuel may be leaking into the float. Regardless of whether your petcock is on or off, fuel should not leak into the carb and therefore the engine. The needle valve and seat's only job is to control the flow or completely stop the flow when the bike is running or not running. Although it is good practice to turn fuel off when you're not riding. There is absolutely no chance that the JD Jetting kit or the needle jet will effect the seal of your needle valve or let excess fuel through while not running. However, it is a possibility that whom ever fitted the kit may have damaged or upset an adjustment.
  6. Your certainly right with regards to air contamination. But, your bearings and piston rings are just two areas inside your engine that may have metal to metal contact. There are other critical areas like gears and cams. Theoretically there should be a film of oil between all moving parts in your engine and therefore it relies on the shear strength and stability of this oil. This is addressed by the viscosity index(VI) and VI improver's in the oil. As you probably know viscosity of oil normally drops when it gets hot, it also drops when under pressure like when it is between gears or cams and valve lifters. When oil gets older it also looses its viscosity and therefore allows more metal to metal contact creating wear. The $64,000 question is when is the right time to change oil? You find that 10 Hrs is good. I personally want to change it earlier to keep an eye on the way my engine is running by looking at oil and the filter. I also believe this is fairly inexpensive to do so.
  7. I do mine every 500 Kms or there about and have a good look at the filter paper. The thing is there would probably be very little difference in engine wear if you went 1000 Kms. It's up to you, it's your bike, you should know what your oil looks like and performs like, and change it accordingly.
  8. From the microfiche the WR426 needle comes in a set with a removable seat. It is the reference # 25 and is priced at $42.03. This is the automatic valve that turns off the fuel in the carby when it is full. If it leaks it is normally a bit of dirt between the needle and seat that stops it from sealing. The needle valve can, in some carbies, be adjusted to place more sealing pressure on the needle and seat and a little less fuel in the bowl. This may also stop the leak. But if the groove in the needle is bad enough and it still leaks sometimes you may have to replace it.
  9. Do this first ansd if it still leaks pull the bowl off and have a look.
  10. Oil doesn't go bad or go off. Oil becomes contaminated with wear metals and by-products of the combustion process. Your filter will remove most of the contamination but not the smaller particulate contamination which passes through your filter and discolors the oil. To remove this you must replace the oil with new clean oil. The change intervals given by people at this site are rule of thumb. That is, if you change your oil at 500 Kms or 5 Hrs you should never get excessive wear from the abrasive particulate contamination. To find out for sure you need to take an oil sample from your engine and get it analised. Cost about $20 to $35 in Oz. This will tell you exactly what condition the oil is in and when to change it.
  11. If it is really cold where you are it simply may be condensation and unburnt fuel because the engine is cold. Other than that, the bike may have a few miles on it by now and when it sits for a while and cools down the oil a small amount of oil may be leaking by worn valve stem seals. It takes very little oil sitting on top of the piston to give you a smokey exhaust on start up. If it is the oil the smoke will have a blueish tinge to it and smell a little. If it is the first problem don't worry about it. If it is the second problem no need to panic it just means you will have to replace the valve stem seals in the future some time. Cheers.
  12. Do you have to top up the oil in the engine?
  13. How cold is the weather where you are?
  14. What's a good brand of chain wax to buy? And where?