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bcallahan

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About bcallahan

  • Rank
    TT Newbie

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  • Location
    Tennessee
  • Interests
    Dirt biking with my kids!
  1. I like your idea and I found this site crfsonly.com that sells the head with kibble white valves installed and gauged and ready to bolt on! Thanks for the advice as it probably saved me a lot of blood, sweat and tears (and cussin' too)!
  2. Hey guys, need some advice. Its hard to start my bike, have to pull or run start it to get it running. Took it to a mechanic (I just relocated and don't know how trustworthy the guy is but he seemed nice) who told me the valves are the issue and they cannot be adjusted any further. I've rebuilt plenty of 2 stokes in my time but really have tackled a 4 stroke engine rebuild. My question is, if its a valve job I think I have the tools and ability (from this site) to do it but how do I know if its the head and shims that are the issue. Or, do I bite the bullet and try to find a Honda mechanic to do it, or if the head/valves and so forth have to be replaced should I just look for a good used engine on ebay? thanks in advance for your comments.
  3. A wrist arthroscopy involves 2 or 3 small (5 mm) incisions on the back (dorsal), thumb side (radial), and small finger side (ulnar) of the wrist joint proper. A lighted tube with a camera lens about the size of a drinking straw in diameter is put into the joint to visualize the bones, cartilage, and ligaments in the wrist. It it not only diagnostic but also therapeutic in that small shavers, suturing instuments and other 'tools' can be used without having to open the joint. It you had a wrist scope at the time of your procedure there should be photos which are taken of the inside of the joint. I suspect it your surgeon said nothing about it, it probably wasn't performed but you might call and ask them to look in your chart. The best bet is to get evaluated by a board certified orthopaedist with a CAQ (certificate of added qualification) in Hand Surgery. Don't be afraid to ask if your next physician has it but everyone listed on the ASSH website has the CAQ or they aren't listed. Take care and let me know how things go Barry
  4. Thanks man- adjusting the pilot screw about 1 turn out makes it run like a top. No hesitation, no more backfire. THANKS!!
  5. rick when I got my new 05 450X my starter gave out within a week. Like you I called Honda of North America and received little help. What did the trick was I wrote a formal letter to Customer Service c/o Honda of North America (the address is on the last page of the manual). I described the situation and the dealers hesitiation to resolve it and I copied the letter to the owner of the bike shop (may be the manager, may not). I also cc'd the letter to a local law firm (although I never sent it to the firm or contacted them). I sent it certified mail. Within a week of sending the letter the shop called and asked when they could pick up the bike, fix it, and redeliver it. Was it dishonest by putting a law firm on the cc list? yes, but unfortunately we live in a time when threat is sometimes needed to make people do the right thing. Best of luck and please let me know how this turns out. Until then I guess I'll put more oil in my tranny and keep the fingers crossed.
  6. For scaphoid nonunions we frequently still use iliac crest bone because you need the strong cortical bone support on the volar aspect of the scaphoid to correct the humpback deformity - distal radial bone graft is inadequate. Furthermore if the distal radius graft is taken its now commonplace to make it a vascularized bone graft by basing it on the dorsal carpal arch which is ideal biology for a nonunion. Bottom line - cannot comment unless xray and thin cut CT is available.
  7. I put Works Connection radiator shrouds and skid plate system on the bike when I got it. I race GNCC series. It has definitely paid for itself in spades!
  8. Dear madrob, I'm an Orthopaedic Surgeon with subspecialty certification in Hand Surgery. I ride a CRF450X and fortunately haven't been plagued by wrist pain but I have a ton of patients who have. Basically the problem you were diagnosed with is Ulnar impaction syndrome. In the majority of the population the ulna is the same length or slightly shorter than the radius. Some people (such as yourself) developmentally have a ulna that is longer than the radius. When this is present it puts increased force on a structure called the TFCC (triangular fibrocartilage complex). If it goes on long enough it can tear a very important ligament in the wrist called the LT (lunotriquetral) ligament. The only deficit in your treatment I see is was your wrist arthroscoped? Shortening the bone is indicated but you have to deal with the TFCC tear and/or LT ligament tear to fully address the problem. The MRI wouldn't have necessarily shown tears in these 2 ligaments so in my opinion every patient who has an ulnar shortening should undergo concominant wrist arthroscopy to deal with the above structural problems. Bottom line-- if you are still in pain go to the American Society for Surgery of the Hand web site (www.hand-surg.org) and find a local specialist to correct this for you. Hope this was helpful, Barry Callahan, M.D. Director, Premier Hand & Microsurgery Center Nashville, TN
  9. yes sir, the only thing I've touched on the carb is the idle needle
  10. My '05 CRF450X has an aftermarket Procircuit TI header and silencer. When the bike is warmed up if I crank the throttle fast the engine will cut out, turning the throttle slowly will let the bike accelerate normally, and also when engine braking it backfires like crazy. Where should I start? Would you recommend changing to a different jet other than the stock? Thanks for any help you guys can give.
  11. Thanks for all your help guys. I put in fresh oil and let it run for about 20 minutes and then rode it for another 15min and when I checked the oil it looked perfectly normal so I'm in good shape. See ya on the trails! B Callahan
  12. Thanks for the info. Actually I did ride it pretty hard last week and went fast through some knee high water a few times and then pressure washed the bike. I do try to avoid getting water in the exhaust when I wash it. The bike otherwise runs and sounds fine. I will run it as suggested and change the oil a few times and see what it does. On a more philosophical note, why the f*** would these systems let water into the crankcase with normal offroad use? I've raced offroad 4x4 trucks for years and never had water in the oil (except when I cracked a block once). It seems they should be more "waterproof." Anyway thank you all for the info, it probably saved me some major $$ not taking to the dealer.
  13. Guys: I recently changed my oil and filter. It looked fine when I drained it. I put the new filter and oil in and started it to let it warm up. When I checked the level it looked like milk! I haven't started it since because I don't want to do any more damage. I ran 4 quarts through the crankcase to "flush it out" but still milky after I turn the engine over. The radiator level is full and hasn't changed. I'm going to take it to the dealer but it is out of warranty and I would like some suggestions from you so I sound a little knowledgeable (and hopefully not get taken to the cleaners). Thanks for any ideas you can give me. By the way, I really don't ride the bike hard. I've run it in 2 GNCC races but I'm careful to keep the service up on it.