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About Chad13

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    Riding and racing ATVs and dirt bikes, and hunting.
  1. Chad13

    Shifting while standing

    You may have to play with the shift lever position to find which spot works well for standing as well as sitting, but here's how I shift while standing. If I'm leaning forward, I just slip my toe under the lever and lift my whole leg straight up. If I'm in a more centered position, I put my foot pretty far up under the lever (but keep your foot on the peg or this won't work) and simply move my knee outward from the bike, which then causes the inside of my foot to lift up and push the lever up into another gear. If I'm toward the rear of the bike, I just put my toe under the lever and pull my toes up.
  2. Chad13

    06 clutch problems?

    I've never been much of a clutch abuser, but I have the same problem, especially when the track is really slick and I start using the clutch to smooth the power on corner exits. After about 7 laps, the lever starts going limp. Of course a turn of the adjuster will get some of the feel back (still mushy though), but you have to remember to turn it back to where it was once the clutch begins to cool down. I haven't tried anything to fix it though (I'm sure a full Hinson set-up would help), as the local races are just 5-lap motos, so it's only been an issue during practice.
  3. Chad13

    newbie...buying an '06

    Skid plate - The aluminum frame rails are fairly easy to dent if you don't have some sort of protection. Radiator guards or at least some braces - Due to the heat modern 4-strokes generate, the radiators tend to be quite large. And, due to the aluminum twin spar frame, they tend to be mounted farther out. It all adds up to big radiators sticking out pretty far, which makes them easy to bend in a crash. Chain - The stock chain is junk, so unless you like adjusting your chain very frequently, you'll want something better. If you decide to go with an O or X ring chain, you'll want a Fastway spacer for the countershaft sprocket, as they can rub the case if you just stick a wider chain on there. The stock chain guide is wide enough for most O-ring chains though. Front tire- If you ride in soft terrain or hard pack terrain, a front tire change will probably be called for. The stock front tire works well in good intermediate loam (most tires do ), but it tends to skate in the soft stuff and just wander around on blue groove. I'd try the stock gearing first, as I feel it's very close to perfect for both moto and woods. I'd think twice about the K&N filter. They've been around in the ATV world for years, and I've never been a fan of them. They do flow more air and are a fine choice for riding in sand dunes. However, they aren't as good at stopping really fine dust, and they don't respond to getting splashed with water as well as a foam filter. The stock springs should be okay for you. I weigh 185-190lbs (depending on how much I've been eating ) without riding gear and about 215lbs with gear. I was able to achieve proper sag and free sag with the stock shock spring. I'm a C-class moto rider (yes, I'm slow ) and the stock valving seems just about perfect for me on the track. It is a little stiff when I decide to venture into the woods, but of course that's to be expected for an MX bike.
  4. It sounds like a KTM 450 XC might be just what you need. Basically an MX bike that's toned down and softened up just enough to make it a good off-road bike. Otherwise, I'd go for one of the 5-speed (CRF or YZF) 450 MX bikes, add a flywheel weight and either revalve the suspension or put up with suspension that's stiff in the woods.
  5. Chad13

    sitting or standing?

    On an MX track, about the only time I sit down is off the start and in corners. Of course there can be exceptions when traction is a problem or if a certain section of track is very smooth, but in general, I stand up everywhere it's reasonable to do so. Most of the time, people who do a lot of sitting aren't comfortable on their bike, either due to ergonomic problems or just not spending enough time riding their bike.
  6. Chad13

    Day before race day question

    The two things I've found not to do the last couple days leading up to a race are... #1 - I don't do any serious weight lifting for the two days prior to a race. A cardio-style workout with light weights is okay, but if I start lifting heavy weights (strength training), I end up with severe arm pump, leg cramps and a sore back in the first moto. #2 - Eat sensibly the day before the race, especially the night before and morning of the race. Eating too much or the wrong things (those "wrong things" seem different for everyone) leaves me feeling bloated and lazy on race day.
  7. Chad13

    Any problems overheating in the slow stuff?

    Mine isn't as bad as I figured it would be in the woods, but they will start puking some coolant if you do a lot of low speed 1st and 2nd gear kind of stuff without any open runs to get some airflow going through the radiators. It actually seems worse when doing slow speed low-RPM stuff than when doing slow speed riding in the engine's normal RPM range. I'd assume that's due to less coolant circulation at below-normal RPMs. Many people have went to Engine Ice and seen improvements, but so far I haven't tried that, as woods riding is the bike's secondary use (primarily use it for moto).
  8. Chad13

    hard cold starting crf 450

    Ditto. I had a heck of a time starting cold CRFs until I started using this method. As for the valves, I doubt that's the problem. If it was, you might have a hard time getting it started when it was cold, but then it would be practically impossible to start when hot.
  9. Chad13

    1700 r.p.m. at idle?

    By running a high idle, you'll reduce the chance of stalling in a low speed corner when you're tired and lazy with the clutch. However, one thing that you may or may not like is that it will reduce the amount of engine braking going into corners, as the bike will basically pull itself into the corner as if you're giving it a tiny amount of throttle all the time. I never set my idle at what the manual recommends for any bike or quad. I adjust it by feel, and try to get my preferred combination of engine braking and stall resistance. I'll even change the idle based on track conditions. Basically, try a few different settings and see what you like the feel of.
  10. Chad13

    Carb issues

    If it had been doing fine previously, I'd say either the float is sticking or the needle valve has either a piece of trash trapped in its seat or an old fuel/oil residue causing it to stick in place. It could be that the needle valve itself is worn out (they will get a groove worn where they seat), but it shouldn't have happened all of a sudden. To remove the float valve, you'll have to remove the float bowl. If you work the float up and down, (holding the carb up like it's on the bike) you'll notice that there's a little brass piece above the float that the float pushes up on when the float moves up (you'll have to look closely to see it). That little brass piece that it's pushing up on is the float valve. You'll have to remove the float to get the float valve out. It is cone shaped on the upper end and seats into a tapered orifice in the carb body. If it has a groove worn in it, you need a new float valve. Otherwise, you may just have a piece of trash in the float valve's seat that can be removed with carb cleaner or you might have some deteriorated fuel/oil residue preventiong movement of the valve.
  11. Chad13

    radiator braces???

    I think you're probably talking about the Rooster Performance guards that were shown in the February '06, Dirt Rider 101 CRF Tips. They are sort of like the WC braces except that they have an inner mounting plate and two rods that go across the front of the radiator to prevent crushing from a side impact. Unless you're riding a CRF450X though, you won't be getting any, as I'm pretty sure that's the only bike they make them for (I wanted them for my R, but they don't make them). They do make regular radiator guards for other models though.
  12. Chad13

    2006 crf450r valves question are they better?

    I haven't got to put much time on my '06, but I just got done with my 2nd valve clearance check. The first check was at 5hrs and both exhausts were at a perfect .011", the left intake was a perfect .006" and the right intake was a loose fitting .005". The bike now has roughly 11hrs on it, with the last 4hrs being nothing but track time (AKA running the crap out of it). All the valves were exactly the same as they were at the 5hr check. Of course 11hrs isn't that much, but I can tell you that I've had other bikes and quads with stainless valves that went out of spec within that amount of time
  13. Chad13

    Chain tight at f(x) then loose at f(y)

    My bike is the same way. It did it with the stock chain and also with my new X-ring. It annoyed the crap out of me for a while trying to figure out what it was. Finally, I figured out that my bottom chain roller isn't perfectly round. With the bike on the stand, I can turn the rear wheel and watch the roller go around and see the slightly out-of-round spot in it. It's not a major issue, as it only makes the chain about 5mm tighter than at its loosest point, but it is annoying. I just check the chain in a couple spots and make sure the tightest reading is no less than 25mm of freeplay.
  14. Chad13

    Jumping Straight

    Three things that I've found that cause me to do the unintented whip are... 1 - Getting cross rutted. Unless you're confortable enough to toss your bike back into position in the air, there's not a heck of a lot you can do about this other than just try to line up with the rut better next time. Try to stay relaxed when it happens though, as tensing up will only make things that much worse. 2 - Accelerating too hard and spinning up the face of the jump. Just like when spinning excessively off a start or out of a corner, the rear-end will try to fishtail and end up kicking one way or the other. I find this is mostly a problem on jumps right out of a corner or uphill jumps, as I tend to be on the throttle harder than usual in both situations. 3 - Turning or leaning over a bit when leaving the jump. I catch myself doing this unconsciously from time to time. It's always either on a jump right out of a corner or a jump that has a corner soon after the landing. Either I'm still leaning over a bit from the corner as I'm going up the jump face (jumps right out of a corner). Or, I know I'm going to have to turn as soon as I land, and I start to turn or lean before I even leave the jump, which can work good if you intend to do it, instead of doing like me and doing it even when you really didn't plan to
  15. Chad13

    Teach an old dog new tricks

    Glad to hear you're figuring things out. Here's about all I can add...The #1 thing when it comes to jumping (or just about anything else on a bike) is to just relax. Fear of not making the jump will cause you to tense up, and that only makes things worse. As you leave the jump, just relax. Don't try to stay standing up tall, as it will result in pulling up on the bars and pushing down on the pegs. Once you leave the take-off, just relax your elbows and knees (especially your knees) and let the bike come up to you. As you start coming back down, the bike will naturally drop back down a bit so that you're standing before you land. Ever notice how good riders look almost like they're ready to sit down in the air at the peak height of the jump? That's because they relaxed their legs and let the bike come up to them.