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About xxxbranham

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  1. I'm afraid you have me confused with one of your snowflake friends ... thanks for playing though ;-) I'm afraid you have me confused with one of your snowflake friends ... thanks for playing though ;-)
  2. I'm afraid you have me confused with one of your other snowflakes ... thanks for playing though ;-) I'm afraid you have me confused with one of your other snowflakes ... thanks for playing though ;-) I'm afraid you have me confused with one of your other snowflakes ... thanks for playing though ;-) I'm afraid you have me confused with one of your other snowflakes ... thanks for playing though ;-)
  3. Boy - you precious snowflakes sure are full of your opinions - and not one single fact in sight. So now let's see some ad-hominem attacks ;-)
  4. Just rode with a buddy who's "A" class rider with a 2015 WR250F. The biggest improvement he made was a new suspension link to drop the rear of the bike ... it comes too high in the back which makes steering a little too twitchy. He tried the forks all the way down in the clamps and 115 of sag but the link solved the issue. With a FMF pipe/muffler and YZ250F ECU he feels like he's over 40HP and loves it compared to his previous generation WR250F's. He settled on a 49 rear sprocket because 1st, 2nd, 3rd are so close with a jump up to 4th. His only complaint now is limited fuel ... when he's riding really hard he only get maybe 55 miles on the stock tank. The IMS shape sucks so he's thinking of using the big tank for the YZ and relocating the battery. That's about it ... great, great little bike
  5. 6 months later ... Been riding the bike an hour or 2 a week and it runs pretty well and gets pretty good mileage ... just not that "magic" feeling. A couple of weeks ago I crested a steep rutted climb and did a wheelie, turned right and dropped the bike in a tree. The throttle "hung" and I quickly got to the kill switch. Got things untangled and coasted back down to kick start and start fresh ... the throttle still hung partly open. Took the carb top off 3 times to try to figure out what was going on to no avail. Finally dawned on me to check throttle slack and sure enough there was no slack. I took out all adjustment (about 1/2") which seemed strange and ended up with just the faintest slack. Still haven't figured out where all that cable went ... Now ... the bike rocks. It starts quickly when cold and 1 kick when hot ... it comes "on" low in the rpm range and revs WAY out pulling smoothly the whole time. Haven't changed anything other than idle screw setting and haven't checked gas mileage now ... but it FINALLY runs like I expected ;-)
  6. APT has a couple of small advantages over the Lectron but a couple of HUGE disadvantages 1- no power jet so everything is done with the needle (which is a little easier to adjust on the APT) 2- Lectron has years and years of development (their manufacturing and support dialed in) and they have developed some very good needles. I read a lot about the 2 in Cafe Husky before selecting the Lectron (maybe the only time I've made the right choice - I bought a Sony beta-max in the 80's). I sent my first Lectron to a YZ tuner in Texas (there's a thread in the YZ 2 stroke forum here) who was completely unable to get a APT to run. He bolted on my Lectron and got the same dyno numbers as his well tuned stock carb with 2 small adjustments.
  7. Well ..... 6 weeks later ..... I've pretty much settled at 1 full turn leaner than it came but haven't touched the power jet. It really runs well and saved my but in a tough rocky race in the pines near Prescott. I didn't worry about the jetting since it was 3000' higher elevation and also a little cooler .... I went up just a smidgen on the idle speed because of the long, long rocky downhills .... and she ran like a 4 stroke grunting her way up some real nasty terrain and idling down. I dropped the bike a couple of times but she just lay on her side and idled away (rekluse). When ever there was a bit of a chance to open her up the top end was awesome. But ..... I'm greedy and still looking for just a bit more. The Lectron totally transformed every YZ250 that I put it on and I can't really say that the RM quite performs to that level. I'm off just a bit somewhere ..... the YZ's all started ridiculously easily - the RM isn't bad, especially once warm - but it's just not quite there. The Z's all idled perfectly but the RM idles well for a minute then wants to drop off a bit (that's why I dialed in just a bit more idle for the race). The YZ's all seem to get at least 30mpg and this rM seems to be in the high 20's - not bad but ..... The Lectron meters based upon engine demands and is very sensitive when the motor is not quite right so I'm inclined to think that I've got a little something that is up to snuff. I'm going to check reeds first but I also suspect that the motor is a little tired so I'll be patient .... and report. The bike is better than with the stock carb .... but I'm greedy and expect more
  8. HaHa - just logged in to report the same. went 1/2 turn leaner on the rod and it feels pretty close to "right". Idles well, revs well with no hanging rpm to indicate a lean idle, pulls just a bit cleaner and smoother at low rpm with a slightly smoother transition to the middle and still a bit of a second hit on top. I went back to the mx tank to better judge the mileage - first guess around 30mpg. Still takes the choke to start from cold which seems odd (overnight low about 80). I remember thinking it's almost like a 4 stroke - you can just leave it in 3rd and lug it a bit out of a turn and rev the crap out of it to the next turn.
  9. My 05 has the stabilizer post welded to the frame - somebody did a clean job. The bike came to me loaded with every "lightspeed" carbon fiber piece known to man - someone put a lot into this thing. I disconnected the TPS from the YZ and taped it up = did the same thing with the RM = couldn't figure out how to unplug it so I just unscrewed the whole thing and taped it up along with the other 2 wire what-ever-it-is. First ride today = started easy but the idle was low = warmed it up a little and raised the idle a little = not enough though as the bike stalled occasionally as I locked the rear and the Rekluse released. I didn't change a thing on the carb when I installed it and think it's a 1/4 turn or 1/2 rich on the needle = but holy f++k does it run good now . I'm pretty sure the stock carb was tuned for 6000 ft and I ride at 3000 so it was a touch lean - it didn't run too well down low but ran pretty good on the main jet. Now though = the bike takes throttle at a very low rpm and then builds smoothly until it starts hitting the mid where it really comes on (a noticeable hit but not uncontrollable) and then it gets another hit as it revs and just wails - the second hit felt like it was causing the clutch to slip but it may have been tire spin (I was too busy just holding on ) My first impression was that the bike has a LOT more power and is very smooth from bottom to top - and that the motor now has 3 power ranges = at very low rpm it takes throttle and pulls like a 125 4 stroke (2500-4000rpm) = then it transitions into the mid which is very strong like a 300 2 stroke (4000-6000rpm) = then it just starts to wail with another hit like a built 250 2 stroke (6000+rpm). (just guessing at the rpm) Came back in and raised the idle a little = went back out and no more stalls = but I still need to tune it just a bit so that it works in coordination with the Rekluse. I think 1/4 turn leaner on the needle will let me drop the idle down to the edge of Rekluse engagement = and it will idle just a bit better. I know the Rekluse engagement is just a bit high too so I need to adjust it lower - I think the new found power is causing the clutch to slip.
  10. Got mine installed today (it came with the 3-2xl needle and the bowl support ) Removed gas tank and pivoted the subframe up - the whole thing goes together pretty easily with both carb clamps loose. Had to remove a 10cm spacer under the reed block to keep the throttle cable from hitting the frame and give the air cleaner boot a little room - it still touches the rear shock spring when it's on the stand but gives just a little clearance when I'm on the bike. Right side choke is easier to get at than the stock one - fuel line has a couple of weird angles - gosh it's nice to have only 2 carb drain/vent lines. Turned on the petcock, watched the bowl fill, pushed the kick start through twice then kicked, it started and settled into a nice idle. Going to run it in a bit tomorrow Only funny thing I ran into was tightening the bolt into the handlebar on the throttle side hand guard - made my throttle sticky so I had to locktite it kind of loose. This new to me RM has a metal throttle tube on Pro Taper bars - I may have to go to shields instead of guards. (Good thing I proof read - auto correct turned 'locktite' into 'lactate' )
  11. Mine showed up tonite too. They're usually sent a little bit rich to be safe so I turned it 1/2 turn leaner to start with. When I had the one off of my YZ dyno'd it showed that I was 1/2 turn lean from what the mx guys like to run - us off road guys tend to like them just that much leaner for a better idle and a bit more 'snap' that doesn't show up on the dyno. So Lectron sent it just perfect for mx. I went a click richer on the power jet from stock too which lost me 2hp at max rpm - but made me feel a little safer in long uphill sand washes. When I got the carb back from him I split the difference on the needle and went 1/4 turn leaner than delivered and left the power jet ant max power setting. The Motosportz section down in the sponsors section of CafeHusky has the BEST info on dialing the Lectron it. I'm going to just bolt it on this time and let it run in for a few hours before any minor fiddling. (it seems to take a few hours for the needle and jet to bed in together so you're chasing your tail if you try to dial it in too soon.) I have a Scotts on my RM - haven't run a stabilizer on the last few bikes - kind of fun not getting that little shake or jolt. Rode with my buddy on the KTM300 and the Lectron last Sunday - he's awesome to ride with - he follows, drops back, chases, and gives me feedback on what I'm doing. He's impressed with the RM.
  12. Camp Wood is probably the toughest race of the season = and it's only 5 or 6 weeks away! I'll probably skip Buckeye - don't want that much sand in my motor (or mouth). Globe is always a rocky classic. We (TRS) put on the race in San Manuel (don't tell anyone but 98% new stuff this year). Canyon/Peoria is always fun with a half lap of moto and a little endure-x thrown in each lap. Haven't done Wickenburg - and disappointed because I don't see my favorite in Wikieup on the schedule. I turn 63 next week and my buds think I should race 50A - right. AMRA has only 1 class for 60+ which they start after the "C" - I tried it but you spend the whole time passing guys who can be - unpredictable. I'll probably run 50B since I'm about mid 'B' pack speed - and I'm old ;-)
  13. It's interesting that you report that the top end over rev is so much better with a 36 on a 300. Lot's of people worry too much about whether to get the 36 or 38 and in the real world there seems to be little difference. My 38 should be here any day for RM250 and I know from experience that it will seem like I have 500 more useful rpm at the bottom and the top = on the dyno a bike will "pull" from a lower rpm with the Lectron and continue making power at a higher rpm. But like reported - the constant jetting thought the day give more real world power no matter what the dyno says. My buddy ordered the "3-2m" needle and allow bowl sealing spacer from Lectron - weeping bowl is his only complaint. I think that patents protect Lectron (and ATP) ... and Lectron (with a lot of recent development work by Motorsportz) has sommething like 40 years of experience with this type carb. (I.m in NW Tucson - plan to run the AMRA schedule - just can't decide what class to run)
  14. Just a little more info = Kelly at has spent the last few years developing needles for the Lectron and can set one up for just about any bike and send you one that you can just bolt on a go. He's a 1 man shop in the bay area so email is the best way to contact him. He says his costs are going up soon and so his prices will have to go up - his profit margins are low and I like to support him. (The guys at Lectron are always helpful too.) I just talked to another friend who's an Pro/A level rider/racer on a KTM300 and is extremely demanding in his set ups = and it's humiliating how fast he is. Told him I had a Lectron on order and he asked why. I told him my experience with the YZ and when I was done he told me HE runs a Lectron and loves it. He's had it 1 1/2 years and has contacted Lectron for the latest 250/300 needle = you can look at the Motosportz section of CafeHusky for the best tuning guide for the Lectron and the latest info on needles, etc. It's interesting how different needle profiles can tune the 2 stroke like different cams on a 4 stroke - the 3-2M latest Motosportz needle is ever so slightly richer low and mid which gives more hit down low (and better gas mileage) than previous needles. My own experience, and that of 2 good friends who are much faster than me, and several other guys I've run into out riding ALL say they had doubts because it sounds too good to be true ..... but the Lectron lives up to the hype.
  15. These are the graphics I designed for a YZ with white plastic - looked awesome - these are black and white checkers with blue background - you can specify any color combo - BRM is very good quality.