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    R/C cars and boats, computers, and bikes

    Help Needed!! Stupid question

    That would be your crankcase breather tube, and it should be connected to the airbox. Right now you are sucking dirty air into your intake and your crankcase, neither of these are healthy for a engine. The hose should go from the airbox to a "Y" connector, from the "Y" to the valve cover, and from the last side of the "Y" to the clear drain tube, and make sure the other end of the drain tube is plugged.

    06 Overflows gas BAD. Suggestions?

    Sounds like a stuck float.

    Cylinder compression

    I want a second opinion on what I found when I checked my compression. When I checked it cold and not run in days it was 60 psi. After it was warmed up and checked within a minute of hitting the button it was 110 psi. What I want to know is do I have a high comp piston or a stocker? I don't know much about the bike, it was bought used from a dealer that took it in on trade. What I do know is it had a hotcam, and CHM pipe, when I bought it. All I have added is a JD jet kit.

    Need so help with stalling

    Well I think it is fixed. Went riding today and it did not kill on me. Seems like it was a small overlooked problem, alittle to rich on the fuel screw 1/4 turn. I still can't bet it to start in gear even with a new clutch.

    wierd situation.

    Could be dirt in your valve core not letting it seat right sometimes.

    R and D

    Its not all about low rpm, it is about usable rpm range. The longer the usable range the better you are. If it were about having the most low rpm power diesel would be kicking but on every thing. The only way I see a broader two stroke range is with variable port timing, no one has gotten a handle on that yet.

    R and D

    Sure if you could build a engine that would start making torque at 2000 rpm and pull hard to say 25000 rpm that would be awesome, don't think we will ever see that though. I remember reading about and old two stroke road racer that turned high rpm somewhere from 20k to 30k. It had to be push started and idle was around 5k, plus it had a nutty trans with something like 12 gears to be able to keep it in the narrow power band it had. What is need is usable power something that works well through the full rpm range.Right now that is being done better on four bangers, don't see it staying that way forever though. They really have to much cc advantage in the classes the way they are anyway.
  8. Little tip for all you guys spraying with a little pump bottle like windex and such. Go buy a 1 gal pump sprayer, saves a lot of time spraying everything down, cost about 10 bucks. Really like your method upallnight, I was using simple green, going to give your method a try.

    R and D

    I would have to say the limiting factor on current 2 stroke bike engines are the reeds, at higher rpms they flutter. I run r/c boats that run piston port 25cc gasoline engines. The engine is direct drive and has to have enough low end torque to go from idle to wide open under load. These engines are still able to turn 17,000 rpm on the water. I have seen some running 19,000 but on S.A.W. engines that don't need that much low end. Two strokes are very capable of turning high rpm, mostly with low end loss, and rod angle is what will give you theoretical limits.

    250f in the vet class?

    Used to see the same kind of thing all the time in R/C cars. People buying more than they can handle because its better. When you get what you can handle you run faster. You rode with your skills they rode their wallets! Boy I bet they felt bad getting beat by a 250.

    Need so help with stalling

    Clutch looked ok, all the metal plates stacked together flat. It really looked almost new, not even worn in yet. I had a new Barnett clutch on hand so I put it in anyway. I will take the other metal plates to work and put them on a lapper and make sure they are flat for later.
  12. I felt the same way when I got my used 04, cold starts were easy hot forget it. I could not even start it hot after using the kill switch. Then I put a zipty fuel screw it to make setting it easier, I have not had any trouble with it backing out. Try this, put it at stock 1 3/4 start it and get it warmed up. Now screw it in till the idle starts to slow down. Now screw it out counting the turns till the idle slows down. Now screw it back in half what you counted going out. Rev it a few times let it drop to a steady idle and hit the kill button. It should start in less than 3 kicks without using the hot start. If you have to use the hot start, screw it in a 1/4 turn to lean it some. If you are able to screw it in to less than one turn out, or more than 3 turns out, there is a clog somewhere. I am no expert but that is the way I was able to get mine starting easy. My 04 is now at 1 7/8 and is starting in 1 or 2 kicks hot after using the kill button, and 1 or 2 with the hot start after stalling. Hope that helps you with starting, now the bog is another thing. You can either do the AP mod http://www.thumpertalk.com/forum/showthread.php?t=343587 , or use a JD jet kit that has an ap mod in it. I did the AP mod first then put the JD kit in to help my lean top end and like the JD kit with the thick O ring better. Hope that helps your bog. One other thing there seems to be a little bit of "Voodoo" to kicking. I can start mine with on trouble but when other people try they can't get it even after I have told them how. I grab it from them pull the hot start and fire it up in a few kicks.

    Need so help with stalling

    Thanks for all the info, going to pull it apart. Let you all know what I find out.

    is the 04 a good bike?/

    Not having any trouble with my 04, if the valves are a concern just put an 06 head on it.

    Need so help with stalling

    I will have to check the clutch plates, the basket is ok I looked at it. I have another related question.. Can you start your bike in gear? If mine is in gear it will not start, after it is started I can idle in gear while stopped with no trouble.