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Aerodynamic Head

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About Aerodynamic Head

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  1. Aerodynamic Head

    Where's Jesse

    So how much now?
  2. Aerodynamic Head

    dr650 exhuast/slipon

    Anyone running the Staintune? results? I've had good experience with them in the past on my Bonnie. I know they're not the lightest, but..
  3. Aerodynamic Head

    Can you upgrade the exhaust without a re-jet?

    Which is exactly what I've done with other bikes, and intend to do with this one, but it brings up an interesting point about which I've wondered. How on God's green earth do they *find* this magic fuel/air proportion you mention? Is an exhaust sniffer *required* to determine exactly the CO2 levels that are "right"? I know that most bike-specific jet kits come with recommended settings, but I also know that every copy of a model is slightly different, and so some fine-tuning is often beneficial.
  4. Aerodynamic Head

    Picked up a new 2006 DR 650 the other day

    FYI, Cee Bailey's makes a very high quality larger screen for the big DR, here: http://www.ceebaileys.com/suzuki/dr650z400ws.html They are a maker of windscreens for small aircraft. I had one of their screens on my Beemer and it way rocked. May look a bit dorky, but is the DR really that fashionable of a bike to begin with? Also fits the DR-Z400. The plastic is nice and thick, and is available in some tints, too. About 85 bucks.
  5. Aerodynamic Head

    Can you upgrade the exhaust without a re-jet?

    I thought the rationale behind the stock can was due to the bike being certified for off-road use, thus requiring a spark-arrestor (because only you can prevent forest fires) and more stringent noise limits so as not to frighten Bambi. Even the all-stainless Staintune has to be lighter than that George Foreman Grill of a beast stocker!
  6. Aerodynamic Head

    Can you upgrade the exhaust without a re-jet?

    Belive me, Dude, I understand, in principle, the exact same answer you have given to about five different questions now. I really don't think the original poster was trying to find the answer he wanted to hear, at the expence of the truth you're telling. But maybe he was asking a question that he feels you haven't answered. My point is this: staintune is not a fly-by-night company, they've been around awhie and seem to know their business. Your tone seems to be that the basic principles of air-flow physics or whatever shall allow no argument with your opinion, so case closed. I just am thinking that if it's as black-and-white as you claim, and you're right, and those thinking otherwise can just suck it, then why are Staintune (a seemingly reputable company) doing business specifically under the pretext that their pipes are designed to make useable power without alterations to intake systems? So if it's your knowledge of mechanics versus a reputable company like Staintune, who am I to believe? And listen, Dude, I'm NOT trying to snidely imply you're wrong; what I am asking from you is an actual mechanical explanation (more than just "you're making noise") as to exactly WHY and HOW Staintune's claims MUST be false, and their claim can NEVER be true. Because really, if it *is* as black-and-white as you've said, then companies like Staintune should be sued for false advertising and unfair practices and put out of business for selling on the basis of what you have said repeatedly is a mechanical impossibility.
  7. Aerodynamic Head

    Can you upgrade the exhaust without a re-jet?

    I've been a longtime fan of Staintune pipes, the Aussie outfit. Their web site explicitly states that they build and tune their "pipes of perfection" specifically for an otherwise stock setup, and therefore, installation of a Staintune pipe will maximize performance as much as possible without altering othe things. In other words, there is at least one exhaust company that says, "Yes" to the original question, "Put our pipe on your bike, and leave the airbox and carb alone." And of course, Staintunes never need repacking. Thoughts? Comments?
  8. OK, so I'm ready to motard my street-only dr650. Now the stock front rim is 21" diameter, thus when I move to a 17" front rim, the diameter will be 4" less. So the radius (from the axle to roughly, the ground) will be about 2" less. I know I'm not counting for different tires, but still, won't that pitch the bike forward rather a lot? How to solve? Do I just buy the "low-seat" linkage for the rear, to bring it down too? Help a brother out! Thanks.