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About gniewko

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    TT Member

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    New York
  1. gniewko

    SM new front rotor - OEM or aftermarket?

    So now I have a choice - either stick with the OEM rotor, or go for the 320mm Braking one, with a bracket. Any advice about those choices? Is the wavy Braking rotor worth it, over OEM?
  2. gniewko

    SM new front rotor - OEM or aftermarket?

    Thank you both for the advice. I think I'm going to stick with 310mm then, and cancel my order. Yeah, the TT store should mention the size difference from OEM for sure.
  3. gniewko

    SM new front rotor - OEM or aftermarket?

    Hmm... I ordered this one: https://www.thumpertalk.com/shop/Braking-SK2-Series-Brake-Rotor-p4758656.html It claims to fit the SM, so I figured it was the right size (meaning same size as OEM). I don't see the diameter specified anywhere on the product page. Do you think this one isn't 310mm?
  4. gniewko

    SM new front rotor - OEM or aftermarket?

    Alright, I just ordered a Braking wavy disk from the Thumpertalk shop. Thank you, everyone!
  5. gniewko

    SM new front rotor - OEM or aftermarket?

    Nice, thanks! Pricey though. What do you like about their disks, what makes them better?
  6. gniewko

    SM new front rotor - OEM or aftermarket?

    Do you think the wavy disk is better than non-wavy OEM? Does it run cooler? I'm always worried about overheating my brakes, since the rotor is so thin and flimsy. I did recently glaze my brake pads and had to sand them down a bit to get them to grip properly again.
  7. My '06 SM needs a new front rotor (after 16K miles it has 3mm or so of play, so the outer part of the brake disk can rotate a bit relative to the carrier). So I'm wondering if I should just get a new OEM rotor, or maybe upgrade with some kind of better performing aftermarket rotor. Any suggestions for replacement front rotors that are better than OEM? I don't race my SM, it's just my city bike, but I am pretty hard on the brakes just because it's fun. I don't think I want to do more significant upgrades (caliper, master cylinder, etc.), but if I can keep the stock caliper and get better performance from an aftermarket rotor, that would be cool.
  8. gniewko

    Brake lever with bearing pivot

    It's just a stock lever. It might indeed be worn out. I suppose when the tolerance of the lever gets too loose, it could twist a bit and bind.
  9. I'm looking to upgrade the stock brake lever on my '06 DRZ-SM. I'd like to find a lever that has a bearing in its pivot point, so it always rotates smoothly, without sticking. Does something like this exist? I've seen good things about the Zeta levers, but do they have a bearing in the pivot point, or just a pin like the stock lever? I want a smooooothly operating lever, hence the need for a bearing. Or should I just give up on that idea and continue cleaning and lubricating the stock setup?
  10. I replaced both the fiber and the steel plates. I guess if this problem doesn't go away, I'll be throwing away the EBC clutch and buying the OEM one. Riding while having to adjust the clutch at every other stoplight is pretty bad.
  11. Yeah, cold oil can cause drag. But this isn't the problem. The amount of free play changes, and by a large amount. So far it looks like the cable is super tight when cold (no free play), and gets loose when the bike gets warm. I'd think it was the cable getting longer when it's warmer, but it's the same cable I was using with the old clutch, and never had this issue, so it's not the cable.
  12. I have a 2006 SM with 12,000 miles. Last weekend I replaced the OEM clutch (it was starting to slip at higher speeds in 5th) with an EBC clutch (from the TT store). I soaked the friction plates in oil overnight before installing them. Now the clutch free play keeps changing - the cable is too tight when bike is cold, I adjust it, and then while I'm riding it gets too loose. I adjust it again, and then when the bike cools down it's too tight again. This never happened with the OEM clutch. The clutch cable seems perfectly fine at both ends. Is this normal for a new clutch? Can I expect the free play to eventually normalize itself? Or is there a problem with the EBC clutches?
  13. gniewko

    SM front brake caliper upgrade?

    Based on my recent experience, I would suggest doing the same thing I did - steel line and caliper overhaul. This transforms the brakes. If you think you need the new MC, at least do the steel line at the same time, so you only have to disassemble your brake system and bleed the brakes once. It would be a pain to have to do it twice.
  14. gniewko

    SM front brake caliper upgrade?

    So I decided to stick with the stock caliper and get a steel brake line. I put it on yesterday and overhauled the brake caliper as well - took it all apart, cleaned it, put in new seals, greased the pins, and so on. The difference this made is big. The brake lever is MUCH more firm, to the point that I really should adjust its span closer to the bar. And I can finally feel what the brakes are doing. They're not "notchy" anymore and I can modulate braking much better. I don't know if it's all thanks to the steel line or to the caliper overhaul, but I'm happy with the results. I think I'll put off upgrading the caliper for now.
  15. gniewko

    SM front brake caliper upgrade?

    Any ideas about what I should do with the mirror if I replace the stock master cylinder? That's where the attachment point for the mirror is. Is my best bet simply getting aftermarket mirrors that attach directly to the handlebars?