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      JUST IN!   07/18/2018

      Video: 2019 Yamaha YZ250F Features & Benefits 

WRyder

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About WRyder

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    Connecticut
  1. It has a new plug, doesn't have a grabby clutch, and we also cleaned the carb. I will try cleaning the hot start. Thanks.
  2. My son rides a 2004 YZ250F. The bike has always been hard to start when cold, but recently became so difficult that it required a "bump/pop start" to get it going. At first I thought it was a problem with compression, so we installed a new cylinder with a high compression piston. The timing, jetting and valve clearences are dead on. The problem is that the bike still requires a "bump/pop start" when cold. After that it starts 2nd or 3rd kick. Any suggestions on what might be making the bike impossible to kick start when cold? Thanks.
  3. I cant thank you enough for telling me this. My bike started first kick. 1000000000000000000 thanks
  4. 2006 Yamaha yz250f Im at about 700 ft in elevation (Connecticut) Right now its between 20 and50degrees with low humidity and I ride motocross and supercross I put a high compressin piston in my bike and now it only runs with the choke and hot start on but it starts first kick. I have Hot Cams (stage 2) but I had those in before I put the piston in and the bike ran perfect. This is my jetting right now: Main Jet:175 Piolet Jet:45 Leak Jet:40 Jet Needle is at the 3rd down from the top Piolet Screw:1 1/2 turns out I cant turn the the choke off or let off the hot start or it will stall but with them both on it runs really nice. If I do shut them off I need to be holding now the gas to keep it going and I pops a lot and it is definitely not the right jetting and I dont know where to go from here with the jetting. I just started it for the first time with the new piston and I cant ride it around with the choke and hot start in so im not sure if this problem changes with the temp of the bike. Other than this the bike is perfect new piston, cams, timing chain, spark plug, valve clearences are right, on the timimg is perfect(just checked it this morning) I also checked the float height and that was right. Thanks in advance!
  5. I just put in a CP high comp piston (14:1) and new timing chain in my 06 yz250f, I have Hot Cams Stage 2 cams in , i checked the valve clearences, the timing is right on, I cleaned the carb out, and now the bike wont start. The bike started right up when I only had the Hot Cams in it. But now that I put the piston in it, it wont start. Gas pours out of the hoses after only a few kicks. I got it to start twice but I had to turn the choke off and hold the throttle open slightly(hasnt started since). When it was running it runs rough and doesnt idle. I'm not sure of the jetting is way off (was perfect) and I'm pretty sure the timing is dead on. I'm thinking that the floats are not right since I had them out or theres some dirt somewhere its not suppose to be. Heres what the jetting is my bike is in CT at about 700 ft above sealevel if it seems wrong- Main Jet:175 Piolet Jet:45 Leak Jet:40 Jet Needle is at the 3rd down from the top Piolet Screw:1 1/2 turns out Any Suggestions? Thanks in Advance!
  6. Im installing a high comp piston in my 06 yz250f and was wondering if the bike would need to be richer or leaner with the hc piston.
  7. I just got the Hot Cams Stage 2, theres a big difference in the power up top.
  8. Im thinking of buying a pro circuit high comp. piston for my 2006 yz250f. I already have stage two hot cams. I was wondering the pros and cons of putting the high comp. piston in? Is it really worth the money? Will I need better vavle springs if I have the cams plus the high compression piston? Thanks in advance
  9. Ride a 2006 Yamaha YZ250F, installed a FMF Factory 4.1 slip on exhaust and a JD Jet Kit. I jetted according to JD's directions for sea level to 3000 ft elevation at 50- 60 degrees indoor track - 185 main - installed a 40 Leak Jet, did the O-ring mod, and per his recommendation I installed the RED #5 Needle/Clip position because I was getting "a bog" when throttling from idle. This cured the Bog and the bike does run a little hotter and has a harder throttle snap just like JD said it would. However, for some time and especially now that I am rebuilding the top end I noticed that the bike is running very rich. The plug is dark charcoal black and the bike has a flat spot at mid to full throttle. Any suggestions as to how to lean the bike out, while improving the pull at mid to full throttle without getting the bog off idle? Thanks in advance for the feedback!
  10. Thanks. I will give a 180 a try. The bike came stock with a 190 main.
  11. It seems to get worse as it heats up, but the bog is there all the time.
  12. Thanks for the help. I checked the fuel cap and its venting. Any other suggestions?
  13. Model: 07 Kawasaki KX 65. I know this is a thumper site, but I need help with my son's 2 stroke. Bike and Jetting are stock except Needle/Clip position. The bike has a new top end. Not happy with current configuration – The Bike bogs as if running out of gas when fully warm – even during races - at ½ to ¾/full throttle on straights. In fact, the bog seems to get worse as the bike gets warmer. Thanks. Main jet: 190 Pilot Jet: 25 Air screw (turns out): 1.5 Needle/Clip position: 4 – stock is 3 Needle Jet is 0-o Jet Needle; 5GSP69 Altitude: 110 – 1025 feet Temperature: 50-70 degrees indoor track
  14. We used the JD Kit with the Red Needle, 40LJ, and the O-Ring Mod. No Bog anywhere - no popping either.
  15. I just sold my 05 WR to buy a YZ. I spent more money modifying the WR and it still did not perform like the YZ in the woods or the track. DO NOT WAIST your money on the WR. Get a YZ, add a heavier fly wheel, softer springs, a kick stand and some lights - if you really need them. The YZ is lighter and it's a race bike. If this is not enough, look at what the top riders are running - All YZ'S. In my opinion, a WR is a very expensive play bike. If a play bike is what you are after, get a TTR 250. It's less expensive, has the e-start and is just as much fun. In sum, the WR will never be a YZ.