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FPMXer last won the day on March 17 2009

FPMXer had the most liked content!

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About FPMXer

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  1. google calls for a B9ES or BR10ES NGK plug. Your probably running a BR8ES in the 250R?
  2. If you poured coolant into the radiator and it didn't make it passed the head gasket I think ya know what the problem is. The head gasket is not correct or installed correctly. Did you match it to the one you removed to make sure the size and shape of the passage holes were the same? Sealant is a no no!
  3. What octane fuel are you running? Was the cylinder ported with the overbore?
  4. If you've ridden 250's in the past I wouldn't waste my time with a project 125. You stated you want to do a big bore down the line. Take your $650 and add another 500-1000 and get the 250. It's like riding a bicycle ya never forget! By the time you get the 125 for 650.00 and dump another 500 or so into it it's still just a 125. Just my .02.
  5. Sounds like an electrical connection has water in it. Unplug everything and spray some dielectric grease in them and it should be back to normal.
  6. Replace your air filter. Problem solved.
  7. When I relace a hub to new rims, I match the spokes if needed. then one side of the hub I number each spoke with a marker where it slips through the hub then letter each one on the other side. Then lay the rim down around the hub and figure out which spoke holes need to be numbered and lettered and simply lace it up. It's easier to do when the old rim is still laced up to get the correct holes numbered and lettered. Make sense? Then I finger tighten the spokes and slip it into the forks or swingarm with the brakes removed and use a felt tip marker just barley touching it and spin the wheel and let the marker tell you where to tighten the spokes to pull it one way or another. Or find a shop that knows how to true a wheel in a wheel stand. Go buy the motion pro spoke wrench as well. It will have a 6mm and 8mm end on it.
  8. I didn't see a compression test result. Did you do one before tearing it down?
  9. If the PV hit the piston you would know. The piston would have shattered in the bore. What's the piston and bore look like?
  10. No need to heat or cool it and beat on it. Get the puller and it will come off without any more damaging words. lol
  11. BR9ES is what I ran in my 99' kx125 back in the day.
  12. Setup is key for any type of riding. Go here and all your questions are answered. www.bannedcr500riders.com
  13. The easiest way to get any nut or bolt torn down enough to remove the part is to get a stick welder, turn the juice up to about 250 or so and hit the nut or bolt only and it will melt away. Don't know what kind of welder you have. It's kinda like air arc'ing without the air. But if you have a compressor you can blow air on it while burning it to blow the cherries away from you.
  14. If you live in southwest michigan near the border I'm not 15 mins from michigan. If your close to Lansing I can give you my brothers number who has a yz250 and other bikes plus he is a bike guru.
  15. That cylinder is a door stop. The cases can be repaired and saved so long you find someone that knows what they are doing. Get another cylinder and piston kit and transfer the pv over. Might be cheaper to find another motor on fleabay. Most of the BB companies will need your busted up cylinder as a core so don't throw it out. I would also want to know why that cylinder sleeve blew off. That's not something ya see everyday. It all boils down to your wallet and time and what exactly you want in the end.