Jump to content

yzmuddereffer

Members
  • Content Count

    493
  • Joined

  • Last visited

About yzmuddereffer

  • Rank
    TT Bronze Member

Profile Information

  • Location
    Illinois
  1. I have a 2005 YZ125 and can get some '07 shock and forks cheap. I know there was a big upgrade in '06 with the titanium spring and SSS suspension. Can I do this swap by simply bolting in the new stuff?
  2. Just looking for opinions. Bike will see several types of riding in this order...enduros, dual-sport rides, trail riding with kids, hare scrambles, motocross. Been riding four-strokes for several years, but have nothing against the two-stroke technology most of us grew up riding. It's not something I have to have, but I wouldn't mind a two-stroke just to mix things up. (I also have another four stroke.) Not crazy about fuel injection in long woods rides (I don't really see the benefit for semi-competitive woods riding and just seems like another thing to break that I can't fix on the trail), but I like everything else I read about the TXC. The displacement sounds perfect, and although it would be another four stroke, I'm OK with that, too. Right now, I could go either way, but all I know is what I see on the spec sheets and the few online reviews I've read. I'm just wondering if there's anything about either of these bikes that I'm not aware of that would convince me either way... Thanks for any opinions.
  3. yzmuddereffer

    this bike is sick!

    SMPDaddy: Just stumbled on this and am very intrigued. You have an awesome-looking bike! I too am curious to hear more about how it performs compared to the stock 250, especially with regard to the handling. One concern I've always had about any conversion is I perhaps naively assume the very smart Japanese engineers who design these things design them to handle the specifics and intricacies of the four-stroke engines with regard to everything from weight, weight distribution, rotating mass, power delivery, etc. Indeed, when some riders have been known to "tune" their handling by, say, adjusting the torque or removing cylinder head stays, for example, I guess I don't understand how dropping in an entirely different engine doesn't jack the handling all up. Also, regarding the engine and power delivery, do you know much about the 360 kit? Maybe I'm showing my age, but I thought the Ohlin's 360 thing was a product of the late 1980s/early 1990s. Is this an old cylinder modified to fit the newer engine or is Ohlin's still building these for the modern bikes? Thanks for any further info you can provide!
  4. yzmuddereffer

    Getting a Title for an Old Dirt Bike

    TRUE! You are right. Of course, you can do just about anything if you throw enough time and money at it. There are a ton of used bikes out there. It's almost always better to walk away, especially if you're not sure you're getting the full story!
  5. yzmuddereffer

    Getting a Title for an Old Dirt Bike

    Ohio is pretty easy all around with titles but you have to follow some rules. * Make sure it really is a dirt bike and not a dual sport with the lights ripped off. If it was ever a dual sport (e.g., a 1979 ke100, XT350 or old DT), then it had a title when it was new and you won't be able to get one now. * Make absolutely positively sure it has never been issued a title (dirt or street). If it has and the guy lost it (or the guy he bought it from lost it), you will not be able to get a title. * Play dumb and offer only the information they need. For example, I screwed myself once for volunteering for no reason that a bike at one time was owned in Illinois. She said, "oh really?" then pulled out a giant book that looked like it was 20 years old. Looked up Illinois and said, "yep, they titled dirt bikes back then. you need to get the original from the guy in Illinois" Doh! * I've had some people tell me that, technically, if you follow the ORC to the letter then only the original owner can be issued a title, making it illegal to sell a dirtbike without one. In other words, before the other guy can sell you this bike, he's legally required to get a title first. I don't know how strict this is, though, because used dirt bikes still change hands all the time without titles. Still, if you want to play this card, you could use it to persuade the guy you're buying the bike from to get the title first. * Likewise, I've also been told the easiest and quickest way to get a title on a previously non-titled dirt bike is to walk in and say, "hey, i've owned this old dirtbike for 25 years and want to sell it. how do I get a title?" Of course, you should only do this if it's true * What you need will vary from a signed affidavit that you're the legal owner (that they give you and you can sign there) to an original bill of sale from the dealer or MSO (good luck with that one!). * Once you get the off-road-only title, you can convert it to a street title with very little effort in Ohio. However, you can never go back to a dirt title. So, if you go street, make sure you really want to have to buy plates every year because you can't go back to off-road only (which only requires a sticker every three years) Of course, the main rule is if you don't like what you hear at one local BMV office, drive to the next one. Chances are you'll get a different answer and with your previous experience will have a better idea of what to say. Good luck. Let us know how it works out and what you had to do.
  6. Has anyone ridden the '12 and a 2011 (or 2010) big bore? I know the 2012 is supposed to be significantly improved with the new frame and engine upgrades, but would it be better than an '11 with an Athena 290 big bore kit? Bike would be used to race Midwest off-road events and for play riding on MX tracks. It would replace a 450 woods bike. Looking to downsize to something smaller and more fun to ride. (Also considering two strokes, but that's a different discussion.)
  7. Ha ha, maybe not, but I know you definitely can NOT prove they don't (can't prove a negative and all that...nevermind...) Anyway, I've sent parts to Gorr before and trust him. He's been at this a long time. No offense, but if I explain my application to him and he says A makes the most sense, I'm going with A. The entire job -- the cleaning, cut seats, valves, springs, seals, shims, cylinder work, installation and shipping back to me -- was only $450 (this included a previous customer discount). For what I got, I don't consider that "a lot of cash." To be fair to you, however, I did not ask about a price for ti valves. Maybe you're right and it would have been a lot less? All that said...stainless steel, titanium, o-ring, non-o-ring, synthetic, non-synthetic, blue powerbands, red powerbands...whatever, they're just dirt bikes. Bottom line is regardless of what we go with, it will work and feel the same for 90% of us. Arguing over this stuff is like arguing over grip compounds. Just trying to share a few photos, not interested in getting into a stainless vs. ti debate (how did that start?) or any other kind of debate for that matter. Too little time already! Hopefully the pics I've put up can help someone out down the line.
  8. Gorr's point of view: http://www.eric-gorr.com/fixing4strokes.html I think it boils down to sacrificing performance for reliability.
  9. Here are a couple photos of split cases from an '06. Not sure what to say, but maybe it will help your search to study these and see where a bearing might end up... Good luck.
  10. Sorry! I let that crafty Gorr talk me into it!
  11. Thanks for the words of appreciation. I would definitely replace the retainer clip screws for the simple reason you'll have to punch them again to lock them into the retainer clip. I reused the stock crankshaft. The rod bearing was in spec and the cam chain gear was in good shape, so I couldn't justify spending the money. I did research a new crank quite a bit, though, both online and talking to some people who know better than me. The overriding opinion is Hot Rod or stock.
  12. Time for the new Wiseco piston. I removed a 13.5:1 high-compression piston to put in this one with stock compression. I liked the HC piston just fine, but because one of my goals with this bike is higher reliability (hence, the SS valves in the head, which I should have in a couple days), I decided the normal Wiseco two-ring piston would be just fine. Anyway, my kid is going to use this bike for enduros and other woods stuff, mostly, so softer power delivery won't necessarily be a bad thing. Time for the new timing chain and one of the timing chain guides... Here's a good tip: Slide in the woodruff key before you put on the stator plate. There's hardly any clearance between the stator plate and crankshaft, and it's easy to drop that little key. More Yamabond. This time, it goes on the grommet that keeps water from entering where the stator wires exit the case. Now, just torque down the stator plate... On goes the flywheel. Note my flywheel holder. I had to modify this slightly in a grinder for the necessary clearance to fit the flywheel. Although the footpeg seems like a natural anchor for the holder (and it would provide better leverage), the holder contacts the leg at the bracket. Because the bracket is slanted out slightly, the holder will just slip off and angle just enough to keep popping off the flywheel. Although it tended to want to raise the bike, the stand itself was a more secure point.
  13. Presenting more fun with my '06 YZ250F's bottom end... First, the balancer shaft. You need to install it roughly in this position to clear the crank. Just to be clear, this is the left side of the engine. Here, back on the right side of the engine, you can see the cut gear on the balancer shaft. Don't freak out. This is normal. It's a timing notch for the driven gear. You need to match up the little punch mark on the driven gear with the notched gear on the balancer shaft, like so... The crankshaft has a similar notch... The balancer shaft drive gear has two timing marks -- one that matches the crankshaft notch and another that matches the second timing mark on the driven gear. Time to get back out the aluminum rivet. First, torque the balancer shaft nut, then the nut for the primary gear, which I obviously also installed in these pics... Clamp down the lock washers. Leave the hammer and screwdriver in the toolbox. Vice grips work well for this... This seems like a good time to put the bottom end back in the frame. First, the oil tank... Here's the engine, back home. You'll notice that I've also installed the kickstarter gear and the kickstarter idler gear... On go the neutral switch and an oil line. Not much to point out here, other than the obvious warning to make sure you put the little brass contact in the right hole!
  14. Just don't explode any clutch plates like my kid did, and you'll be fine!
  15. You have to get new bolts for the crank bearing retainer clips because you need to hit them with a punch to secure them into the clip. The old ones will already be punched. The tranny bearing in the right side case dropped right in. I had to tap the other transmission bearing and both crank bearings to seat them.
×