Birdy426

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Birdy426 last won the day on May 20 2007

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About Birdy426

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    BirdyU2

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  • Location
    California
  • Interests
    Dirt bikes (duh); coaching youth football; camping; fishing; computers and internet
  1. The small end rod bearing on a 400 crank is smaller than the bearing on a 426, so you would have to use a 426 piston and cylinder, or have your 400 cylinder bored and replated. You could even go as large as a 444 (97mm piston) with a big bore kit from Eric Gorr or Luke's Racing. Primary drive hear is also splined on a 426 and, if I remember right, was keyed on the 400, so you would need a new primary drive gear as well.
  2. Not on a 250 pinger, b ut had a similar experience with a Hot Rods Connecting rod on my 426...failed after 5 hours, completely wasted the motor.
  3. Learn from my mistakes...any time you replace the head gasket on one of the 5 valve motors, have the head surfaced. If you don't, you'll be chasing blown head gaskets until you do...
  4. How are you going to torque that when it's time? Motion Pro makes a dog-bone wrench...12mm on 1 end, 13 mm on the other, 3/8 square drive hole (for a torque wrench) in the middle. My guess is the one head bolt threads are grabbing the edge of the hole in the head gasket...should be noting else holding that bolt in as long as the threads are fully dis-engaged.
  5. Thanks! That's different from what she brought home from the DMV...We'll try with just the rear brake actuating the light and see what happens...I'm collecting all the parts, but won't be heading back to Vegas until mid-July. I'll put it all together then and see what happens. I'll post up pics and results when it's done.
  6. My daughter just moved to Vegas, where we can still plate a dirt bike (unlike the People's Republic of Kalifornistan). One of the requirements in NV is a brake light switch on the front brake. Anyone add one? What did you use? As there's no banjo bolt, no way to add a hydraulic switch at the lever. What about at the caliper? Anyone tried that? Mechanical switch? Any help would be appreciated...
  7. My California plated '97 Bought as a "temporary" replacement when my WR444 broke the connecting rod...now I'll never go back to thumpers.
  8. I'm just starting a swap on my 97 WR250z...I picked up a 99 subframe and airbox on flea bay for $50, and a seat for 20. Just ordered an '03 tank and shrouds, and 99 side panels and fenders from Rocky Mountain. ll post up pics as I go...
  9. PB Blaster works great for the penetrating oil. Looks like you're going to need a LOT of parts...remember, e-bay is your friend!
  10. Nope. Head pipes are different diameter...
  11. turn signal flasher should go between +12v (either directly off the battery or stator output) and the switch turn signal 12 v input.
  12. If you can afford it, keep the tank and buy a used YZ seat. The ergonomics of the aftermarket YZ tank are MUCH better than the stock WR tank. Lots thinner in the knee grip area and you can slide WAY forther forward to help weight the front end when cornering. Second best mod I made to my WR...right after the hot cams outo-decompression cam.
  13. yes, if the cut end was contacting ground you wouldn't be getting spark (assuming it's the leg between the switch and the CDI not the leg between the switch and ground). If the throttle cables are disconnected, you aren't following the Dubacj Method (the drill), which calls for a couple of twists of the throttle before you kick to squirt a bit of gas into the ports...
  14. I would try a real machine shop or engine builder...