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About twyler

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  1. twyler

    Newbie question on DR350 vs DRZ400S

    Rondo, Congrats on the bike. Sounds perfect for what you want. It sounds like your bike has been modded some already. I would not be surprised if you find the airbox is already cut open on top and carb is re-jetted. In fact, with the aftermarket pipe, if the airbox is cut out, you can bet the carb is re-jetted. Otherwise it would not run right. Enjoy the bike, twyler DR250se
  2. twyler

    bikes for father and son

    In my opinion you made a good choice with the 150f. Sure some teens ride 230's, 250's etc. But he is new to riding. If you overdo it he will not enjoy it. Heck, when I was 12 I was riding a yamaha MX 80, ( similar to today's PW80 ), I loved it.
  3. twyler

    DR350 QUESTION - Carb novice !!

    You can find alot of DR350 expertise lurking around at maximum-suzuki.com. Check out the DR technical forum. twyler
  4. twyler

    DR200 reliability?

    I would guess that at 5-6" you would not like the 250/350. I am 5-10" and my dr250 fits me just right. The 200 will likely be a better fit. And Jesse now has mods for the dr200- jetting mod and exhaust mod to beef up the power. http://www.kientech.com wyler 94DR250se
  5. twyler

    1991 suzuki dr 250

    I agree that it's a great bike, but I would disagree with the price. Just my opinion but I think you could find a later model 350 for 1700. 91 250 around here would go for around 1200. HOWEVER, this all depends on where you are and what the market is like right now. If it is really clean and nice, talk em down as much as you can and buy it. Don't fret over a few hundred if it is something you really want. If you do buy the bike, you'll want to get it all uncorked. It will never thump down low like a big-bore bike. But with the airbox mod and re-jetting it really runs great when you wind it up. Call Jesse Kientz at (541) 472-0835. He can hook you up with everything you need. http://www.kientech.com Good luck. twyler 94DR250se
  6. twyler

    DR200 - Too small for me?

    Just a thought... Have you considered a yamaha XT350? Lots of power with a very low seat height. I cannot speak for them because I've not ever ridden one. But it would fit you well. Unless of course you are talking about a new bike. They don't make em anymore. twyler
  7. twyler

    PW50 running poorly

    I am certainly no engine expert either. This is the first time I have torn into a cylinder and removed a piston. But, like you said, they come apart pretty easy. I just replaced the piston on my 02 model. It took a standard size. I just guessed that it was still standard and I was right. I did not bore the cylinder out although it probably could have used it. It seemed to get rid of the ping ping ping, and I ran it pretty hard up and down the street to see if it was all going to hold together. So far so good. My 98 model has been bored over already. I just slid the new std piston in the cylinder to test fit and it was obviously over bore. I don't know how to tell what size. I looked at all the numbers on top of the piston and tried to determine from that, but no luck. I guess the bore can be measured with a special tool. Take it to a machine shop. These things are fun to work on. I have the 02 model ready to sell and the 98 is all back together and finished. I don't know what I'm going to do now. My neighbor has one too, maybe he'll let me take it apart!
  8. twyler

    PW50 running poorly

    That's funny, I also just bought a pair of used pw50's. I've got a 98 model and an 02 model. The 02 is very clean, I'm going to re-sell it to pay for the 98. The 98 I stripped down to the frame and refurbished it a bit. Painted the forks hot-pink. My five year old girl loves it. Both of my bikes also have the pinging you mention. It is piston slap, wear near the tail end of the piston skirt which allows for jingling around in the cylinder. I found a place on ebay selling Wiseco piston kits for $46. A new piston and rings should fix it. If yours has so much wear that it is affecting the compression, then that could be your power problem. You need the piston anyway to cure the pinging, so try it and see. The airscrew on the carb on these bikes is very touchy. I tweeked quite a bit to get it to run right. Also, maybe silly questions but.... Is your throttle screw removed? and Is the exhaust restrictor removed on both bikes? ( Not sure what year they started putting those in.) wyler
  9. twyler

    2-stroke gas mixing

    Perhaps such comments are best left to the 12 year olds. Tis not helpful.
  10. twyler

    PW50 Pinging

    Thanks Mod-Man. You were right it is easy. I went out and pulled the cylinder and piston off. Certainly seems the piston has some wear as you described. Much easier and cheaper fix than what I expected. thanks again
  11. twyler

    PW50 Pinging

    Great! Thanks again. I'm just wondering, what exactly is piston slap? Is it actually the piston that needs replaced or the bearings and pin? wyler
  12. twyler

    PW50 Pinging

    We are definately talking about the same sound....... I actually did grab the pipe, It's HOT. Thanks alot for the info. How difficult is it to replace the piston? wyler
  13. twyler

    PW50 Pinging

    Hi all, I've just bought a pair of Pw50's, a 99 and a 01 model. Both run great, but both make the same metal pinging noise. Like there's metal vibrating around in the cylinder or header pipe. My neighbor's kid has a newer model and it does not ping. Like I said, they run great! But I want to get rid of the ping. Please help. thanks, wyler
  14. twyler

    dr 250 hop up's??

    My 94 250se came stock with a 14/42 sprocket set up. Increasing the rear to a 46 OR dropping the front to a 13 will help greatly. The airbox mod with a K&N filter, and rejetting will wake it up.
  15. twyler

    How to replace DR350 brake pads?

    Hmmm, I'm not for certain that it is the same as my 94 250se, but it probably is. I just had my rear brake pads out this afternoon. It's rather easy to do without moving the rear wheel. 1. Just remove the two allen head bolts in the side of the caliper. 2. Loosen the cap on your fluid reservoir. 3. Slowly but firmly push the caliper assembly up against the disk, thereby pushing the piston into the caliper as far as it will go. 4. Now the pads have enough space to wiggle out of the housing. You should be able to get the pads out in about three minutes. Of course this is all for not now....... but it may be easier next time.